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Old 08-26-2013, 11:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 1966 mustang front suspension.

Ok here is my delima right now. Not looking to make a numgers matching stock car so better handling and perfamance is what I am looking for. With that being said, I have been parts shoping and with my list (sure I forgot something) the price is about $2800 with a stock gear box. A rack & pinion set up is only a couple hundred more so now you can say I am at $3000. I can do a coil over mustang II style setup for $2700-2800. I am not sure which way to go and would like to hear input for the different setups.

Most of the new stock parts would come from OTR. The MII listed right now are Rod & Custom style
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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More expensive isn't always better. If I was building a good handling vintage Mustang..... wait, I DO have a GREAT handling vintage Mustang..... here's what I'd do:

1. Arning drop. One inch is enough.
2. Upper & lower control arms. Stock style is fine. If you are going to be doing a fair amount of track or auto-x time you can "box" the arms. I think sombody offers a kit with pre-cut pieces.
3. New upper spring insulators (I use poly) and lower spring perches (I use stock rubber, but rollers are okay but, IMHO, not necessary).
4. Adjustable strut rods or spherical bushing kit to replace stock bushings. Do not use poly bushings on non-spherical rods!
5. "GT" or heavier (depending on how stiff you want it) front springs. Absence of body roll doesn't necessarily mean better handling.
6. My own preference is for a 15/16 or 1" sway bar, no bigger.
7. 4 1/2 or 5 leaf mid-eye rear leaf springs with new shackles.
8. Quality adjustable shock absorbers. My preference is Koni.
9. Quality rebuilt stock 16:1 steering gear. See "Chockostang".
10. Shelby "Quick-Steer" Pitman and Idler arms.

Rack & pinions and MII front suspensions don't necessarily (and usually don't) handle any better than the OE set-up.
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:29 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It would be helpful if you described exactly what you want.

RIDE FIRMNESS - Stiffer suspension over straight line bumps?

CORNERING - Flatter cornering?

RIDE HEIGHT - A slightly lower car than stock?

STEERING RATIO - A steering gear ratio that turns the wheels more quickly [more responsive] but requires noticeably more effort to turn at ALL speeds but is most noticeable at low speeds?

BOX ARMS - by the time you spend the money for suspension "box" plates and welding and installing urethane or delrin bushings in the front arms you could have simply spent a bit more and got the nice global west or similar tubular front suspension.

RACK AND PINION - I have driven many conversions and don't like them but that is my opinion.

SUB FRAME CONNECTORS - Frame connectors very helpful imo.

RALLYE BAR AND SHOCK TOWER BRACE - Very helpful imo.

REAR SWAY BAR - Very helpful if set up properly but many people don't know how to do that and end up with a car that steers to quickly [so to speak] then say they are junk. They are rarely used on the street anyway but sure flatten the car in a turn. Lot's of fun but easy to oversteer.

SHOCKS - konis are great shocks but the non adjustable ones are typically stiffer than most people like for everyday use in my experience. i know nothing about the adjustable ones. they are also pricey. check out the ones below. some have both compression and rebound damping adjustment, very cool.

http://www.varishock.com/?utm_source...paign=vas_logo

Last edited by barnett468; 08-27-2013 at 05:44 AM.
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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It will be a daily driver for my 16 year old son, maybe 20 by the time we are done LOL, we race over track cars so not really going to see track time. Just a good handling hot rod. Being new at this and on a budget I want to make sure our money is spent as wisely as possible with the best results.

Is is a 289 with a 3spd. and want to do disc front brakes. And it has the 19.1 gear box.

Last edited by Billy13; 08-26-2013 at 11:40 PM.
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Performance in most forms is a compromise of something for something else .The stock style suspension can be made to handle very well just watch a vintage road race mustang video . The biggest benefit of the mustang II style suspension systems is you can use a larger engine, but then your not really taking about handling anymore in most cases.
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:58 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy13 View Post
Ok here is my delima right now. Not looking to make a numgers matching stock car so better handling and perfamance is what I am looking for. With that being said, I have been parts shoping and with my list (sure I forgot something) the price is about $2800 with a stock gear box. A rack & pinion set up is only a couple hundred more so now you can say I am at $3000. I can do a coil over mustang II style setup for $2700-2800. I am not sure which way to go and would like to hear input for the different setups.

Most of the new stock parts would come from OTR. The MII listed right now are Rod & Custom style
I would not do the MII set up. I have a 64 Comet with the R&C MII that I installed and it is a nice well thought out kit and really straight forward to install if you can weld. I only installed it to make it easier for the 408W to fit. I would keep the stock style suspension and make the upgrades like the Arning/Shelby drop, Gt coil springs, Roller perches and Roller Idler arm and a rebuilt gearbox from CHOCKOSTANG and a 1" front sway bar. Stock style upper and lower control arms are just fine and a good alignment not the stock settings. For disc brakes use your v-8 spindles and add the Factory style kelsey Hayes disc brakes.
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Old 08-27-2013, 12:09 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy13 View Post
It will be a daily driver for my 16 year old son, maybe 20 by the time we are done LOL, we race over track cars so not really going to see track time. Just a good handling hot rod. Being new at this and on a budget I want to make sure our money is spent as wisely as possible with the best results.

Is is a 289 with a 3spd. and want to do disc front brakes. And it has the 19.1 gear box.
the items i'm recommending are the best bang for your buck imo. i am not an overspender, lol. Some of the items both I and bartl suggested above might be overkill for you but if you are looking at spending $2800.00 on a rack set up I think you will save money and have a better suited set up spending it on other parts besides the rack.


ok budget set up.

needle bearing idler arm

white gas kyb front shocks

510 front springs.

or spring over combo adjustable vari shock [which ever is cheaper]

front sway bar and rear springs as bartl described.

urethane ir delrin bushings including strut and sway bar ones as bartl described

lower upper arms as bartl described if you want since this process is easily reversible.

maybe shelby steering arms on front susp if they work on a 19:1 box and place the ratio between 16 and 19:1.

new std 19:1 steering box if yours has play when driving straight that can't be adjusted out. a 16:1 box is too hard to turn with anything wider than stock tires especially if the driver is not strong imo.

get wider lower profile tires.

this is not a wimpy set up for a kid in a street car believe me.

Last edited by barnett468; 08-27-2013 at 05:43 AM.
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Old 08-27-2013, 02:45 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Opentracker suspension and you're done

Their products are amazing, installed mine and it made an unbelievable difference.
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Old 08-27-2013, 05:33 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Check out Street or Track...I wish I knew about them before I ordered all my parts from Global West some years back...don't get me wrong, the Global West stuff is great (they were among the first to provide reengineered suspensions for restomodded Mustangs, before restomodding was even a word)...but Street or Track seems to have more "tune-able" stuff...I have the Global West upper and lower control arms, along with their springs, adjustable strut rods, Koni classics adjustables, export brace (important) and monte carlo bar (also important)...but perhaps the MOST important thing are the subframe connectors...if you plan on putting ANY power through that car, you GOTTA stiffen the unibody...I also have had the shock towers modded with the "big block" bracing at the base of the tower...Mustangs that have had stiffer springs/bigger engines/lowered stances/low profile tires, could develop cracks in the towers without that modification...when I bought the GW stuff, the ENTIRE system (including a set of Torque Thrust replicas from Vintage Wheel Works) came to about $4,000...that also includes their del-a-lum bushings, which are really nice pieces...now that price is probably a little bit higher since I bought mine, and it DOES NOT include the export brace or adjustable strut rods (I bought them later on)...other than having the subframe connectors welded in (if you can't do it yourself), everything is bolt-on, with the only modification to the car being four holes that you have to drill into the shock towers to relocate the pickup points for the upper control arms...they provide a foolproof template for that (of course nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool)...or check out Global West, is what I guess I'm also saying...hell, check out both!
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Last edited by Placenm; 08-27-2013 at 05:36 AM.
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:42 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Seems like everyone is saying stay stock. Here is the list of what I am looking at:
-1" swaybar
-Adj Strut Rod (like the calvert one but can't find where they are sold)
-Front brake conversion (not sure if I have V8 spindles or not, think car was a 6cyl)
-Front Springs
-Front shocks
-LCA (moog)
-Roller Idle Arm
-Roller Spring Perch
-Shelby Drop (1")
-Steering Box (16.1)
-Steering rebuild kit (front end parts from OTR)
UCA

Also looking to add an upgraded export bar, monte carlo bar, sub frame connector, and address the rear suspension a little later. Just had all the sheet metal replaced from floor pans all the way foward replaced so right now it has no front suspension in it.
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:57 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barnett468 View Post
SHOCKS - konis are great shocks but the non adjustable ones are typically stiffer than most people like for everyday use in my experience. i know nothing about the adjustable ones. they are also pricey.
I have never seen or heard of non adjustable Koni's for the vintage style shock. The stock Shelby Koni's are adjustable and so are the classic Koni's available now. Yes, they are pricey how ever.
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:58 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy13 View Post
Seems like everyone is saying stay stock. Here is the list of what I am looking at:
-1" swaybar
-Adj Strut Rod (like the calvert one but can't find where they are sold)
-Front brake conversion (not sure if I have V8 spindles or not, think car was a 6cyl)
-Front Springs
-Front shocks
-LCA (moog)
-Roller Idle Arm
-Roller Spring Perch
-Shelby Drop (1")
-Steering Box (16.1)
-Steering rebuild kit (front end parts from OTR)
UCA

Also looking to add an upgraded export bar, monte carlo bar, sub frame connector, and address the rear suspension a little later. Just had all the sheet metal replaced from floor pans all the way foward replaced so right now it has no front suspension in it.
No need for the adjustable strut rods there are better places to put your money but if you are going to use them I would also buy a lower control arm with a heim joint so you can pull the control arm forward without binding the factory rubber bushing. You can get plenty of Caster without the adjustable strut rods just by using the shims if the car is Manual steer. Opentracker does sell the lower arms as do some others. Also you do not really need the 16 to 1 steering box if you have manual steering I would just send yours to Dan at Chockostang for a rebuild. Set the Alignment close to -.5 degrees Camber, +2 degrees Caster if Manual steering more if power and the Toe 1/16" to 1/8" Toe in. Once you go over about +2.5 degrees of Caster with Manual The Steering starts to feel real heavy at slow speeds and will be even worse with the 16 to 1 box. I have my own Computerized alignment machine in my shop at home and have spent a lot of time playing around with angles. This is just my opinion on what works best for me yours may vary.
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:05 AM   #13 (permalink)
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6 cyl suspension is completely different. it is 4 lug. if you have 6 cyl front susp you need every single piece replaced with the possible exception of the strut rods as far as i remember. someone else can confirm.

many moog parts are now made overseas.

who is otr? I would make sure their parts are cast in usa, not just machined or assembled here.
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:09 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by LynnBob 65 Mustang View Post
I have never seen or heard of non adjustable Koni's for the vintage style shock. The stock Shelby Koni's are adjustable and so are the classic Koni's available now. Yes, they are pricey how ever.
I never bought a set of koni's. I would take them off of cars I had and sell them to my friend. None of those were adjustable but they were older style many orig 66 "shelby style" etc.. He offered what I considered stupid money for them so I couldn't say no.
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:16 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Been trying to post a picture but can't get it to work so here is a link.

https://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.ph...type=1&theater
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