New Aluminum Head Cheap - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums
Vintage Mustang Forum
HomeForumGalleryClassifiedsAbout UsAdvertiseContact Us
» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
Go Back   Vintage Mustang Forums > General Discussion > Vintage Mustang Forum
Vintage-Mustang.com is the premier Ford Mustang Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 11-09-2013, 05:44 PM   #16 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
v8only's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: corona ca
Posts: 1,413
Default

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1384033472935.jpg (76.7 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg 1384033480883.jpg (88.8 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg 1384033490288.jpg (85.7 KB, 23 views)
__________________
-66 mustang 5.0 custom comp cam roller, edelbrock performer heads, airgap/670 carb,holley blue pump,2005 mustang discs, t5z trans with clutch cable, 130 amp taurus alt. 1996 explorer 373 8.8 rear, open tracker roller suspension, solid adj strut rods and more
-72 maverick 302 undergoing FULL resto
v8only is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 11-09-2013, 07:02 PM   #17 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
putz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Marinette Wi
Posts: 385
Default

I have seen the add a few times. And sure I would put a set on , I do know a few guys running por comp's with no problems. I do know if I bought a set sure *** --- they would come a part.
__________________
On going project 66 fairlane
Next project 70 Mach 1

70 coupe
Stock 302
T5
putz is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-09-2013, 11:01 PM   #18 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
tom991's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Vero Beach, FL but currently live in Korea
Posts: 1,893
Default

Unless it's weight you want to shed, what's wrong with reworked cast iron heads? You know what you have works well so why not improve on that? I considered aluminum heads but didn't want to increase the size of my combustion chambers that I enjoy on my C4OE castings, so I had them machined for 1.94" intake valves, hardened exhaust seats, port matched, adapted for ARP threaded studs, and although heavier than aluminum heads they flow nicely with my setup. I have a .456 lift int/exh, Crane Energizer cam, don't remember the duration off the top. Maybe one day trade up to that Ford hydraulic version of the Hipo cam I hear so much about. But it is immediately responsive when I press on the gas pedal and it's fine for now. I only paid $250 labor plus parts, I swapped a set of 3/8" ARP studs for a set of 7/16" ARP studs or the other way around so to fit my stock rocker arms that I had so I didn't have to buy new new studs.

Last edited by tom991; 11-09-2013 at 11:02 PM. Reason: typo
tom991 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-09-2013, 11:08 PM   #19 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
v8only's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: corona ca
Posts: 1,413
Default

I suppose nothing if you aren't looking for big numbers.. throw that thing on the dyno...you'll never even see 175 at the wheels...

Once you spend the cash to make an iron head flow like an aluminum head... which btw usually isn't possible.... you've outspent what a good set of alum heads would cost


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
__________________
-66 mustang 5.0 custom comp cam roller, edelbrock performer heads, airgap/670 carb,holley blue pump,2005 mustang discs, t5z trans with clutch cable, 130 amp taurus alt. 1996 explorer 373 8.8 rear, open tracker roller suspension, solid adj strut rods and more
-72 maverick 302 undergoing FULL resto
v8only is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-09-2013, 11:08 PM   #20 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
bartl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: West Rutland, Vermont, USA
Posts: 18,363
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tom991 View Post
Unless it's weight you want to shed, what's wrong with reworked cast iron heads? You know what you have works well so why not improve on that? I considered aluminum heads but didn't want to increase the size of my combustion chambers that I enjoy on my C4OE castings, so I had them machined for 1.94" intake valves, hardened exhaust seats, port matched, adapted for ARP threaded studs, and although heavier than aluminum heads they flow nicely with my setup. I have a .456 lift int/exh, Crane Energizer cam, don't remember the duration off the top. Maybe one day trade up to that Ford hydraulic version of the Hipo cam I hear so much about. But it is immediately responsive when I press on the gas pedal and it's fine for now. I only paid $250 labor plus parts, I swapped a set of 3/8" ARP studs for a set of 7/16" ARP studs or the other way around so to fit my stock rocker arms that I had so I didn't have to buy new new studs.
Very true. The only other advantage besides weight would be cost. If you don't mind me asking, how much do you have in your pair? Did you increase the exhaust valve size?
__________________


6F09A 63A 8 26 09D 71 1 5
bartl is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-09-2013, 11:39 PM   #21 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
tom991's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Vero Beach, FL but currently live in Korea
Posts: 1,893
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bartl View Post
Very true. The only other advantage besides weight would be cost. If you don't mind me asking, how much do you have in your pair? Did you increase the exhaust valve size?
I didn't increase the exhaust valve size. I did have the exhaust ports "ported". I paid about $200 for valves, locks and seats, $50 for Ford OEM rocker arms. The ARP studs were given to me so i traded them for the size I wanted. The valve springs came as a package with my Crane came which I got on sale on Summit, Cam, Lifters, Springs. for around $250. So I would say $50 for the springs because the cam and lifter set cost around $200 by itself.

So I figured I paid about $550 total. I wanted to keep the stock look.
tom991 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-09-2013, 11:46 PM   #22 (permalink)
Supporting Member
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 716
Default

One can run higher compression on pump gas with aluminum heads, theoretically.
The reason I use the term "theoretically" is because I haven't done it myself......yet

Last edited by JPIII; 11-10-2013 at 08:26 AM.
JPIII is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-10-2013, 12:04 AM   #23 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
bartl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: West Rutland, Vermont, USA
Posts: 18,363
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tom991 View Post
I didn't increase the exhaust valve size. I did have the exhaust ports "ported". I paid about $200 for valves, locks and seats, $50 for Ford OEM rocker arms. The ARP studs were given to me so i traded them for the size I wanted. The valve springs came as a package with my Crane came which I got on sale on Summit, Cam, Lifters, Springs. for around $250. So I would say $50 for the springs because the cam and lifter set cost around $200 by itself.

So I figured I paid about $550 total. I wanted to keep the stock look.
That ain't bad....
__________________


6F09A 63A 8 26 09D 71 1 5
bartl is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-10-2013, 12:53 AM   #24 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
htwheelz67's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: mission viejo, ca
Posts: 1,293
Default

unless you want a slight increase in power and do it yourself there is no reason to modify stock heads "period" (like Obama said about health plans, "period" that liar) but seriously the worst aftermarket head is much better than anything that came stock, I have been building SBF's for over 30 years, even those cheap procomps which are a copy of a Victor head will blow away the best ported stock cast iron head, they have some cheap parts in them but you can make them very good. I put a bunch of money in a set or C90E heads once they were good, chevy valves, fully ported, screw in studs, guide plates cost me about 850.00, and then I bought a set of Twisted wedge heads for like 900.00 way back when in 1995 or so and even with a compression drop they smoked what I had, Today I have the same heads but had them CNC ported to 205cc on my 408 stroker, if you are looking for real performance then aftermarket heads are the only choice. I dont care what you do to a stock head, it will not even compare to an aftermarket aluminum head, even a cheap one. I would probably spend a couple,few hundred more on a set of American made heads. Otherwise if you want to go the procomps buy the bare castings and put good stuff in them and grind off some of the casting flash, some get a good set and no problems but its not worth the chance, if its a mild 289-302 maybe look for a set of gt-40x heads new or used, factory quality, not as good as AFR or TW but cheaper. You will find people telling you the procomp heads are barely as good as stock which is complete BS but the reliabilty factor is true, its hit or miss with them, with procomp anything that is the case.

Last edited by htwheelz67; 11-10-2013 at 01:11 AM.
htwheelz67 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-10-2013, 01:42 AM   #25 (permalink)
Joe
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Imperial Beach, CA
Posts: 1,043
Default

Has anyone used the Edelbrock Estreet heads? I'm playing around with the idea of getting a pair for my 302, as they seem relatively inexpensive for complete heads. Also, does anyone know if I would have to drill the steam hole in an '88 block if I bought a set?
__________________
'65 Coupe, 302, Autolite 4100, C4, 2.80
'72 Grande, 351C, Motorcraft 2100, FMX, 2.75
Joe is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-10-2013, 01:43 AM   #26 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
v8only's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: corona ca
Posts: 1,413
Default

What is a steam hole?

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
__________________
-66 mustang 5.0 custom comp cam roller, edelbrock performer heads, airgap/670 carb,holley blue pump,2005 mustang discs, t5z trans with clutch cable, 130 amp taurus alt. 1996 explorer 373 8.8 rear, open tracker roller suspension, solid adj strut rods and more
-72 maverick 302 undergoing FULL resto
v8only is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-10-2013, 01:50 AM   #27 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Tunkhannock PA
Posts: 11,708
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe View Post
Has anyone used the Edelbrock Estreet heads? I'm playing around with the idea of getting a pair for my 302, as they seem relatively inexpensive for complete heads. Also, does anyone know if I would have to drill the steam hole in an '88 block if I bought a set?
About 6 months ago it was either car craft or Hot Rod mag did a test of six sbf aluminum heads. The TF made the most power, I forget who came in second but the E street came in a very close third only being like six hp down in power from the TF but the were about $300 less then the TF.
__________________
Tom


Rehab is for quiters!

Huskinhano is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-10-2013, 02:41 AM   #28 (permalink)
Joe
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Imperial Beach, CA
Posts: 1,043
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by v8only View Post
What is a steam hole?

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Not exactly sure, but the installation instructions say they need to be drilled in "early" 289/302 blocks due to changes in the water passages. I'm thinking I should be safe with an '88 block, but not sure. I'm confident in my abilities, but very aware of my limitations, and the idea of taking a drill to my block just doesn't give me a warm fuzzy.

Thanks for the info, Tom. From the prices I'm seeing, the E-streets are a lot more than $300 cheaper!
__________________
'65 Coupe, 302, Autolite 4100, C4, 2.80
'72 Grande, 351C, Motorcraft 2100, FMX, 2.75

Last edited by Joe; 11-10-2013 at 02:47 AM.
Joe is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-10-2013, 09:00 AM   #29 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
09Frank65's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Warrington, PA
Posts: 5,943
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe View Post
Not exactly sure, but the installation instructions say they need to be drilled in "early" 289/302 blocks due to changes in the water passages. I'm thinking I should be safe with an '88 block, but not sure. I'm confident in my abilities, but very aware of my limitations, and the idea of taking a drill to my block just doesn't give me a warm fuzzy.

Thanks for the info, Tom. From the prices I'm seeing, the E-streets are a lot more than $300 cheaper!
Take a new head gasket and lay it on the deck of the block (correctly oriented of course).

If you a bunch of round holes in the gasket that aren't in the deck, these would be your missing steam holes. Apparently the older blocks (not sure when they changed) didn't have them and allow pockets of steam to build up at the top of the water jacket. The steam holes prevent this from happening.

I don't think (but I'm not certain) it does you any good with stock heads as I don't think there is a corresponding passage in the same generation heads. Someone else would have to confirm that though.

I wasn't aware of this when I put the AFR heads on and didn't drill the block. I wonder if this contributed to my cooling issues with the stock cooling system.
__________________


1965 Mustang Coupe

www.not2fst.com
09Frank65 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-10-2013, 11:04 AM   #30 (permalink)
Supporting Member
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 716
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by htwheelz67 View Post
unless you want a slight increase in power and do it yourself there is no reason to modify stock heads "period" (like Obama said about health plans, "period" that liar) but seriously the worst aftermarket head is much better than anything that came stock, I have been building SBF's for over 30 years, even those cheap procomps which are a copy of a Victor head will blow away the best ported stock cast iron head, they have some cheap parts in them but you can make them very good. I put a bunch of money in a set or C90E heads once they were good, chevy valves, fully ported, screw in studs, guide plates cost me about 850.00, and then I bought a set of Twisted wedge heads for like 900.00 way back when in 1995 or so and even with a compression drop they smoked what I had, Today I have the same heads but had them CNC ported to 205cc on my 408 stroker, if you are looking for real performance then aftermarket heads are the only choice. I dont care what you do to a stock head, it will not even compare to an aftermarket aluminum head, even a cheap one. I would probably spend a couple,few hundred more on a set of American made heads. Otherwise if you want to go the procomps buy the bare castings and put good stuff in them and grind off some of the casting flash, some get a good set and no problems but its not worth the chance, if its a mild 289-302 maybe look for a set of gt-40x heads new or used, factory quality, not as good as AFR or TW but cheaper. You will find people telling you the procomp heads are barely as good as stock which is complete BS but the reliabilty factor is true, its hit or miss with them, with procomp anything that is the case.
As I have written elsewhere on this forum. the crate motor I bought from Tuff Dawg has the Pro Comp heads on it and God knows what else.
From my conversations with them, they do use some good parts......*when available* ( I can just them rooting around the shelves what's to see what's there ). I am going to ask them for a build sheet when it is done, but.......

At any rate, it's a Dufur, OR. (as in "do for now") motor . I'll break it in right then run the hell out of it till the warranty expires (next fall) then, if it lasts, it's Katie bar the door. I still have all my porting tools. Tear it down & any crap will get replaced. I just hoping they do a decent job on the block.

As for head related failures, who knows? It is unquantifiable. Any bozo can eff up a motor during break in (or later) and one hears more tales of that than are shop related screw ups......it depends of who you're talking to. I feel confident I could serve up a valve seat...& maybe more during break in... if I put my mind to it.

BTW, I use Brad Penn 30 wt, non detergent oil for break in.....it has served me well.

Last edited by JPIII; 11-10-2013 at 11:07 AM.
JPIII is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:23 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.3.2 ©2009, Crawlability, Inc.