Vintage Mustang Forums banner

Is my starter switch starting to go out?

1K views 22 replies 7 participants last post by  qbui 
#1 ·
I've noticed recently that once in awhile, when I would try to start the engine in the morning, the first time I turn the key, there would be nothing, no sound, no nothing. Then I turn to off and then turn the key to start the engine and the engine would crank and the issue is gone. I can turn the key to crank all I want after the first time and it would crank every time. Does it sound like starter switch or something else?

Battery is about 1.5 years old
Solid state voltage regulator about 1 year old
Cables around 1 year old

Any inputs are appreciated!
 
#2 ·
Could be ignition switch or starter solenoid. Not sure where the solenoid is on a 69 but its on the fender well by the battery on my '66. One thing you can try is before starting the first time in the AM, try jumping the + side of the solenoid to the "S" terminal for a moment next to it to see if the engine cranks (car in park or "N" if standard!). That means solenoid is ok. Then try with the switch. If you get nothing I would then suspect the switch. Others may more ideas.
 
#4 ·
sounds like a bad ground to the battery

check the black wire off the battery to the engine block or chassis
 
#10 · (Edited)
So I still have the intermittent issue where I would turn the key and nothing and then turn the key again and the starter would crank. Doesn't happen every time but seem like happening more often lately. This past Saturday, went out to lunch and when I got back to the car, turned and nothing. Turned again and nothing. Tried it a few more times and still nothing. Figure maybe I'll give it 5 minutes and try again, still nothing. Then I thought maybe the starter solenoid so I made a jumper out of some 10 gauge wires I had in the trunk and still nothing. The radio came on and the alarm chirped, I can hear the fuel pump priming when I turn the key to on but when I turn to start, nothing. Did not check the voltage on the battery but the battery is about 3 months old so I didn't think it was the battery.

Called AAA and waited for the truck to come to tow me home. First truck came but he said he didn't have any wood to raise the front and could damage the front apron and license plate so they called for another truck to come. When the second one came, I told the guy let's try to jump before trying to tow because it was a very busy parking lot and will have many angry drivers. He hooked up the jumpers and I went into crank and car started right up. He also checked the charging system and he said it's charging fine. I'm feeling pretty stupid right now but the driver was a nice guy and said he was happy not to have to tow my car in that parking lot either but he would have taken pictures of my car on his flatbed if he did and complimented on my car before he left. I drove right home and then turned the car off and then cranked her up and she started right up. Next day, she started fine although there were times when I cranked and nothing happened and then next crank, she started right up.

Checked the voltage when the key was out and got around 12.4V
Checked the voltage when the key was at On and got around 12V
When the engine was running, the voltage was around 14.3V
I think these are normal?

Anyways, here's a recap of what I've done within the last 3 months or so:
• Went from carb to EFI so there would be some current draw for the ECU but shouldn't be that much
• Replaced the battery
• Cleaned the grounds from battery to engine, firewall to engine

Any suggestions are appreciated!
Thanks!
 
#13 ·
Checked the voltage when the key was out and got around 12.4V
Checked the voltage when the key was at On and got around 12V
When the engine was running, the voltage was around 14.3V
I think these are normal?
No. Engine off battery voltage should be no less than 12.6 VDC. Anything less than 12.3 VDC is a dead battery.
Did you take the voltage reading directly at the battery terminals - not thru the cable clamps?

Paul
 
#11 ·
Next time you're ready to start it pull the wire off of the S terminal on the solenoid and hook a voltmeter to it. Turn the key to Start and see if you have 12V at that end of the wire. And does the 90* terminal on the end of the S wire fit tight on the post of the solenoid? Some times they get "stretched" open and they fit loosely on the post.
 
#19 ·
Did you have the old battery load tested, etc?

Personally I would have bought the battery locally in case there was an issue with it. I dont see what so great about Optimas - in fact Ive read a lot of posts a various forums where folks have problems with them.

Paul
 
#17 · (Edited)
So I figured since I'm replacing my battery, I should replace my starter solenoid since it came with the car. I ordered a Motorcraft starter solenoid thinking it should be good. When I got the unit, it came in the Motorcraft box so I was pleased. Then when I opened the box, the unit was in another box with a different parts number. I continued to opened the second box and the second parts number was stamped on the unit along with the Motorcraft name. I looked up the second parts number and Tisco & Calco brand came up and for a lot less! I'm assuming it's the same unit without the Motorcraft stamp on it. Curious if anyone have bought one of these and if it was good quality or crap?

Thanks!
 

Attachments

#18 ·
I always buy/recommend Motorcraft parts. Sad to see they are made in china now but I would still buy Motorcraft over another made in china part.

Paul
 
#20 · (Edited)
Paul, I didn't do a load test, just readings of the battery when the engine was off and when it was running. I've always heard good things about Optima but no personal experience. Only bad thing I remember reading is when you let the Optima battery totally drain out. It's $50 (50%) more than the one I'm returning but I figured if it gives me peace of mind, totally worth it. Right now, I worry when I get to the car if it's going to start or do I need to call AAA again!

Thanks!
 
#21 ·
BTW, the reason I purchased the Optima battery from Amazon is because they have the lowest price with free 2-day shipping for Prime.

Amazon: $147.33
Pep Boys: $225.99
O'reilly: $215.99
Walmart: $253.17
Autozone: $221.99
Sears: $183.42 but has to be shipped and can get it as soon as 2 weeks
 
#22 ·
Got the Optima battery in today. Drove home with the Interstate still in the car. When I got home, I removed the Interstate out of the car and figured it just had about a 10 mile charge so should be good. Checked and it was 12.45V. Then I opened the Optima box and checked the voltage and it was 12.65V after sitting in the box for at least a couple of months. Then I installed the Optima battery after sanding all of the connectors and even the posts on the new battery. Also replaced the starter solenoid I just purchased too. Engine started right up and I reprogrammed the clock, bluetooth & LED color on my radio and shut the engine off. Must have taken about 5 minutes for all that. Rechecked the voltage on the Optima and it's now 12.96V after about a 5 minute charge. Hopefully this will resolve the intermittent issue I've been having.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top