Vintage Mustang Forums banner

Introduction and suspension question

2K views 22 replies 6 participants last post by  McButterball 
#1 ·
Hello. I purchased a 1966 Mustang 6 cylinder auto from a friend just the other day. It was his daily driver for years until he parked it 5 or 6 years ago. He was having a carb problem and replaced it with the wrong one and never could get it running right. Since then it's just sat up collecting dust. It's been indoors in storage for the past 2 1/2 years. I've been trying to talk him out of it for forever, and he finally caved.

The body is straight and mostly rust-free. The interior is ok.

The plan is to upgrade to an EFI 5.0 and a T5 transmission. I bought a 1995 F150 some time ago to use as a motor donor in anticipation of this.

I've been doing a lot of reading over the past few days and have found a wealth of information. Thanks to all who have shared their experiences.

I'm looking at this kit from cj pony parts:

Mustang Supreme Front Steering and Suspension Kit 8 Cylinder Manual Steering 1965-1966 | CJ Pony Parts

and then some 70 - 73 spindles (along with the correct tie rod ends).

I'd appreciate any feedback on this from anyone who wishes to comment and especially from anyone who has done this.

Pics are in my garage for anyone interested. :grin2:

Also, I need some spindles and backing plates and such if anyone has a source...
 
See less See more
#2 ·
While you are doing the conversion you might just want to put disc on the front so backing plates would not be required. I like things simple so I would just go with stock 65-66 V8 Mustang spindles. The CJ kit you have posted will work but you will also need a pitman arm and a center link. Keep your eye on Craig's list for an 8 inch rear end. 65-66 is about the only rear that will fit in a 65-66.
 
#4 ·
Yeah, the idea was to go to discs. Left that info out. Still wanted backing plates for brake dust deflection purposes.

I'm a fan of upgrading stuff. I figured while I was at it, I'd go ahead and step up to the later spindles.

I appreciate the info on the rear end. This is gonna take a while, so I can be patient and see what comes available.
 
#7 ·
On a disc brake set up I have always called those splash shields not backing plates and will usually come with the kit that you buy. The term backing plate is usually reserved for drum brakes. I have installed a bunch of 4 piston kelsey hayes brake kits from CSRP and really like them. If you go with later model spindles you might need to go a different way.
 
#6 ·
I'd go with correct V8 spindles for proper geometry and bump steer avoidance. The '70 & up spindles DO have a bigger spindle pin, but hundreds of thousands of '65-69's, even cars with 428CJ's, B302 and B429 had the small pin and no issues. That small pin was also used in intermediates (Fairlane, Comet) without issue. You'll also need disc brake dust shields as they are not the same as the drum backing plates. Use the original-style K-H 4-piston units. Don't forget you'll need a V8 center link as well as a V8 Pitman arm and V8 steering stops. If it were me, I'd also swap out the 19:1 steering gear for the 16:1 box.
 
#12 ·
I found mine on Craigslist (non local) and had the guy ship them to me. Yes, there is a trust factor there, but after talking to him on the phone, asking for multi detail pics of the spindles, we made the deal. Believe we used paypal for the transaction.

SS
 
#13 ·
Hi.

So I've finally got all these components installed. I narrowed and installed an Explorer 8.8 disc rear. I installed the SN95 style disc brake conversion from CSRP and used his spindles. I replaced all the suspension components with new stuff, including new (stock height) springs. The CSRP guy says the track width up front should be about the same.

I'm ready to get wheels and tires and get this thing back on the ground.

So my question: I'd like to get 15x7" Magnum 500 wheels. They have 4.250" backspace. Will these work with my configuration? I've done several searches and it's hard to find a definitive answer. As I understand, the Explorer rear is an inch narrower than stock. I wouldn't mind if I had to get 1/2" spacers and longer lugs, but I'd like to know beforehand. Also, will I run into clearance issues up front? Will 225/60s work up front or do I need to go with a 215 or 205? 235/60 in the rear?

Anyone who has a definitive answer, please help. Thanks! :)
 
#16 ·
It's really going to depend on the backspacing and ride height. I have 15 x 7 TTD's (3.75") backspacing and they clear my OE K-H calipers but were a little tight on the fender lip with 215/65R15's until I replaced my worn out spring perches.... and I have pretty "firm" .620" coils. Yes, my lips are rolled too.

You'll have to make sure you have a rim that clears the caliper and upper control arm on the inside and doesn't stick out too far on the outside.

This might help a bit...

https://www.stang-aholics.com/files/downloads/tire-fitment-guide-65-66.pdf
 
#19 ·
4.25 backspace on wheel. All interference is with tire I think a 215 or 205 up front would work better and my fenders are rolled. I did not use a stagger thinking I would get more life out of the tire if I could do full rotations from time to time. My bad.

FWIW I did a similar set up replacing all front end components and doing the Arning drop. Between the drop, front disc brake conversion and the lackluster power R&P kit that came on the car all lead to some pretty crazy bump steer issues. If I had to do it all over again I would have spent the extra coins and time and went with a coil over conversion. I'm almost done working out all the kinks though so it's too late to go back for now.

Bill
 
#21 ·
Wheels and tires arrived today. 15x7 4.25" backspace magnum 500s on all corners. 215/65s up front and 235/60s in the back. In the front, the csrp sn95 spindles and disc conversion fits perfectly. In the back, I have an 8.8 disc explorer rear with the long side narrowed to match the short side. It's also perfect.

The car sits a little high in the front, but I just installed all new front suspension components (including springs) and this is the first time it's been back on the ground. I hope it settles after a bit.

Thanks to all for your help. Next up is to hit the machine shop and get this block ready. Doing a 302 (likely .030 over) with a comp XE264HR and GT40 heads and intake. Gonna be a long haul but now we're getting to the fun part.
 
G
#22 ·
I hope you searched and have read the zillions of posts about spring choice and the height that is the result. It has a lot to do with which manufacturers springs you purchased. Many have been very unhappy.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top