I was assessing the rust damage on my 67' after work today and noticed that the textured steel inner door panel area on both door (where your arm would rest while the window is down) has enough rust that I don't think there will be any texture left after the rust is removed. I assume the paint was worn down from use so it was exposed to the elements (convertible with no top parked for 35 years) Is this part of the door structure or is it a bolt on item? The rest of the door is essentially rust free. I didn't see anything in my CJ parts book for this issue.
The textured interior is part of the door shell. Not a replaceable part. One of the drawbacks to the 65-67 cars. Many were worn smooth from people driving with their arm resting on the door edge.
Had the same problem, not with rust, but dents. After I pulled and filled the dents I rolled on (yes with a small paint roller) single stage paint. It left a reasonable facsimile of the original texture. I had to do a few trial runs with varying paint thicknesses, dry times and techniques, but the end result was acceptable.
The sheet steel it textured from the mill. The stretch/formed areas have less texture mecause the metal is stretched. Don't sand the surface to take paint and or rust off. Media blast or paint remover and brush. If not rusted through there should still be some texture.
Wonder how spray-on Truck Bed Liner would work? Covered by a clear coat or a coat of satin black spray paint after it has dried. Just a thought.
6sally6
I have done the camera finish in small areas with epoxy primer and vinyl texture sheets. You let the epoxy set until it is almost cured, then press the vinyl texture into the epoxy. The resulting finish is pretty hard to tell the difference from OEM.
Hit that with a wirewheel and then clean up with some phosphoric acid to remove the remaining rust and see just how bad it is. It might be tolerable. Avoid getting a new door if you can.
As lizer said, cover those areas with paint stripper, then use a wire brush or wire wheel, and see how it turns out first. You may be pleasantly surprised. I did that with rear inner quarter panels and was able to save them. Yes, the panels looked like your doors at first.
I have found the best way to fix this problem is to sand blast the inside of the door. The grain part. I have found it actually brings up the grain. Any type of mechanical stripping, sanding or wire wheel, will wear down the grain and flatten it out.
I'd rather have no texture on the inside of doors that actually fit the car,,than deal with the repo shells .
The advice others gave will work.If you have any texture left spray the paint on in light coats.Or do what Pete suggested with the vinyl pattern,I've done this when done correctly it's virtually undetectable.
Both of the doors on this car have factory paint (other than the effected area) and are very straight. I would rather loose some texture vs finding and fitting another factory door. I think I am going to use the evaporust (with paper towels and plastic) that was recommended on the forum and see how it turns out. It's been great so far on all of the brake parts.
If we have to do any repairs like weld a patch in where someone install a speaker, we just sand all the grain off with 80 grit on a DA.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Vintage Mustang Forums
4M posts
89.2K members
Since 2001
A forum community dedicated to vintage Ford Mustang owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about restoration, modifications, NOS parts, troubleshooting, VIN codes, and more!