Stop fuel spills- Filler neck modification - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-01-2016, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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Stop fuel spills- Filler neck modification

Since this site does not allow the attachment of a MicroSoft Word file this large, you need to follow to this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bwk...ew?usp=sharing

This will load the first page. If you want to see the entire 9 pages go to the top and click on the download button (its a downward facing arrow). Sorry for this awkward work-around, but so far its the only way to present the material.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-01-2016, 05:07 PM
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Thanks for taking the time to write it up and sharing it with us!

1969 Mustang Convertible
302, C4, P/S, P/B, A/C, FiTech EFI
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-01-2016, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for taking the time to write it up and sharing it with us!
You are welcome. Its something that has bothered me since I bought the car in 1969. Now that I'm retired I HAD to fix it.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-01-2016, 09:40 PM
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Heres one from a few years ago - it requires welding. I recall the guy had a better write up at another site but I cant find it now.
http://www.stangfix.com/threads/fuel-filler-mods.2879/
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-01-2016, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mach1 Driver View Post
Since this site does not allow the attachment of a MicroSoft Word file this large, you need to follow to this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bwk...ew?usp=sharing

This will load the first page. If you want to see the entire 9 pages go to the top and click on the download button (its a downward facing arrow). Sorry for this awkward work-around, but so far its the only way to present the material.
concerning your zinc plating costs...... do it at home with your battery charger
Zinc Plating with Common Materials
the only addition I did was add a 25 ohm, 25 watt potentiometer so I could more accurately control the current.

its really easy & works great.
I'm zinc plating as many parts as I can on my stang for corrosion prevention.
zinc is a sacrificial metal... thats the reason there is a zinc anode rod in your water heater.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-01-2016, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minnickb View Post
concerning your zinc plating costs...... do it at home with your battery charger
Zinc Plating with Common Materials
the only addition I did was add a 25 ohm, 25 watt potentiometer so I could more accurately control the current.

its really easy & works great.
I'm zinc plating as many parts as I can on my stang for corrosion prevention.
zinc is a sacrificial metal... thats the reason there is a zinc anode rod in your water heater.
I investigated that but the set-up would have cost more than taking it to a plating shop and it would require experimentation...I decided to just take on one project at a time.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-01-2016, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Paul1958 View Post
Heres one from a few years ago - it requires welding. I recall the guy had a better write up at another site but I cant find it now.
Fuel filler Mods | StangFix.com
Paul
Yes I've seen the solutions that require welding. This doesn't and anyone can do it.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-02-2016, 12:53 AM
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Great concept, regardless of how you do it. My filler has been a pain in my *** forever! Cool write up about the zinc plating.

'67 coupe, 390-S, 4spd.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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I'll try to add a PDF version here of the original Word.doc to give you easier access.
Nope, even that exceeds the limit, sorry guys.

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Last edited by Mach1 Driver; 01-11-2017 at 12:19 PM. Reason: adding pdf
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 03:22 PM
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Excellent job. I really appreciate that you provide part numbers, prices and sources.

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 05:04 PM
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Great write up and pictures. I plan to purchase the filler neck insert you used (thanks for the part number!) and simply weld it in place after cutting the filler neck, then weld the filler neck back together. Before reading this, I planned to insert the drilled plate that was featured on stangfix, but I like this solution much better.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by David Eckel View Post
Great write up and pictures. I plan to purchase the filler neck insert you used (thanks for the part number!) and simply weld it in place after cutting the filler neck, then weld the filler neck back together. Before reading this, I planned to insert the drilled plate that was featured on Stangfix, but I like this solution much better.
One of the Stangfix guys did what you are describing but we haven't had any updates on the result. By the way, you can get the PDF version over there. The downside of welding is that you need to coat it with something. The filler necks you can buy from places like CJ Pony are painted with a conductive paint, but I couldn't find anything like that. That's why I resorted to zinc plating. I think the metal parts need to be conductive and to be grounded to the chassis. The fuel nozzle can be at a different potential than the car and the charge needs to be bleed off. The fuel sloshing through the inlet can also set-up a static charge. My recommendation is to play it safe, the car manufacturers do it for a reason. Since the flapper is a different material and can't be removed once welded I don't see how you could have it plated.

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 10:15 PM
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Great write up, I was actually discussing this the last week. I'm going to follow in your footsteps.

One questions. Is there a reason why you didn't make the cut a little lower and fit the filler to the upper pipe, and then just use rubber hose from that down to the tank? This would eliminate the need for the grounding strap also.

Thanks
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 11:28 PM
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Thank you for the write up

1964.5 Convertible D Code with factory 4 Speed born July 6th 1964

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-12-2017, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by hus65 View Post
Great write up, I was actually discussing this the last week. I'm going to follow in your footsteps.

One questions. Is there a reason why you didn't make the cut a little lower and fit the filler to the upper pipe, and then just use rubber hose from that down to the tank? This would eliminate the need for the grounding strap also.

Thanks
If you look at drawing 1b you'll see that if you move the cut down much it will change the geometry of the fuel nozzle to the filler pipe and you may not be able to push the flapper completely out of the way. You can always try it and let us know what happens. There's always room for improvement.

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Last edited by Mach1 Driver; 01-12-2017 at 09:27 AM.
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