I've recently removed my engine and though it would be a great time to repaint my chipping engine bay. As of now I started to scrap the paint with a scrapper and I plan on using a few applications of paint stripper thereafter.
My question is what kinds of paint would you guys recommend I use? I've been reading that Kyrlon 1613 is is common, I've also heard some good things about Eastwood paints. My problem is that I doubt that I would be able to get my engine bay down to the straight metal of some parts. I am looking for something that is aggressive enough to hold on surfaces that may not be fully bare metal. Below is a picture of what my bay currently looks like. As you can see I still have a lot of work to do...
Yes, use the Mastercoat Silver. If it were me I'd spray it with that and then AG111 semi gloss black. It's one of the most chemical resistant paints you'll come across.
A black rattle can will still do you well. I'm on my 8th year with my Bill Hirsch Chassis Black rattle can painted engine bay and it looks as good as it did on day 1.
Looks like it is really rough. Eastwood has some true epoxy primer. It would use that as primer once it it is sanded as smooth as possible. I use Krylon semigloss black. It is a little duller than some origional paint I found around the engine bay but finishes out very well. Krylon has a very good spray nozzle for a rattle can which helps attain a good finish. The epoxy primer should stick very well. The Eastwood underhood and chassis black does not lay out very well in my experience even though it is fairly tough.
Apparently, the old Krylon 1613 has been out of production for a while. I used a black epoxy primer from SPI, but you'll need a bona fide compressor and all that (maybe more involved than you're looking to do, but check it out here if you like). As for rattle cans, I've heard good things about the Bill Hirsch Chassis Black and the Eastwood stuff.
Good surface prep is mandatory for a decent result. Take the time to really get as much stuff out of the way as you can and really sand/scuff/clean the surfaces well before you paint. My car had a poor spray can paint job in the engine bay and it was rough.
I'm seeing here that the Eastwood Epoxy Primer that you guys are recommending comes in liquid form. Are you suggesting that I spray this or paint the chassis with a brush? I do not have access to a compressor and sprayer.
You can brush it on, as with anything. But it will look very bad brushed. And if you are going to be brushing then I'd go the Silver route since it flows out very smooth and then rattle can. The Bill Hirsch can sprays in a nice pattern so it gives a smooth coat. I painted some pulleys with the Eastwood chassis black as well. It's more dull than the Hirsch but seems to be holding up well too, especially considering it was pulleys I painted.
Here's what mine looked like. I cleaned the compartment with gunk and pressure washed, did a great of removing all the crud, did some sanding & scraping. I treated with Zero Rust primer and black topcoat. Stills looks great, no peeling anywhere.
I have to admit, I did a double take on your signature. I thought for a second, "That's my car!" Looks like our cars are almost identical, even down to the 4-speed.
I've had good results with either low gloss black engine enamel (VHT or Duplicolor), or low gloss chassis/roll bar black from VHT (auto parts store). The engine enamel requires a primer.. the chassis paint is self-priming. Also- A cheap wire wheel on an angle grinder will get you down to bare metal in just a few hours.
I "over-restored" mine a little bit by going to a glossier finish than stock. I wanted to be able to clean it easily for shows. This is cheap auto paint (Ditzler economy grade 2K, I forget the trade name) over epoxy primer, all shot through a $30 Harbor Freight "purple" gun. I'm very happy with the results.
I also used the Eastwood products. Cleaned down to bear metal in most spots, some unable to get completely. For a few spots I did use the rust encapsulater and then did the self-etching primer. I used the 2k engine black on the bay. I used Scott Drake's OEM detail black paint for the fan, pulleys, etc. I powder coated the stock exhaust manifolds (Eastwood does have a paint you can use, but you must do last and put on the engine and run to set the paint, or will need to bake in oven w/in 72 hours of application). For the engine I used Eastwood's 2K Ford Blue (2 colors, darker blue for earlier years). With the 2K paint, it is basically a single use. The can says you have 36 hours to use after activating it before it dies, but I did not get that much time. Buy a can or two extra as you cannot run to the paint store to get another. Also if you use floral wire, it will let you hang the small pulleys etc to paint and dry. I used all rattle cans as I did not have a sprayer, either. I also used the time as an opportunity to replace all gaskets and hoses, etc.
My opinion on the Eastwood 2K epoxy and chassis black in the rattle can: It dries extremely fast in low humidity, making it very difficult to work with. I used these paints in the wheel wells and I was disappointed. It was about 90 out, and I live in AZ with 0% humidity so that could have a lot to do with it but the products (primer especially) were drying in mid air before it even hit the metal. I had some decent results but overall I was unhappy. Expensive, extremely toxic, and not easy to work with. My opinion is to use a spray gun and paint you that you can control the mix, or stick with regular single part rattle cans.
Others have had good results, so take that as what it is- my opinion only. Good luck with your project!
Mine was blasted to bare metal, given two coats of Eastwood black epoxy primer, then three coats of underhood satin black. Should be good for another 48 years, lbnol.
Anymore reccomendations on a primer that I should use? I've been reading pretty good things about Por 15 Topcoat primers. How about primer's with zinc?
What do you guys think so far? I am having a hard time getting every nook and cranny. Chemical stripping is definitely the way to go. This was about 6 hours of work. My plan is to use POR15 Rust Preventative treatment followed by POR15 Chassis Black. How much more stripping do you think I should do?
That's lookin' pretty good! I'd take a drill with a wire wheel or cup to the "tough" area then take a good hard look at the shock towers for cracks and fix any you might find, then epoxy prime (3 coats). That should be all you need. I would avoid POR-15 on any clean, bare metal surface.
Paint has been covered.
BUT.
Do you know what not to paint?
Remember to leave some bare metal around a few bolt holes. Your engine ground, your starter solenoid, voltage regulator, and a few other things I can't remember. These things will need to have a little bare metal so they are grounded to the inner fender/firewall.
If you want the perfect satin / suede finish (not too glossy and not too flat) but the perfect finish; get Blitz Black from John Deere. It is very affordable and comes in rattle cans, quarts and gallons.
Bar none, it is undoubtedly the best black satin / suede finish out there. It is super durable, laughs at heat and simply does not want to fade because it has a UV blocker. I painted the rear bumper on my Jeep Wrangler three years ago and it looks like it was painted yesterday; truly awesome.
I'm not saying that there are not other great products out there...and I have used them. In my opinion, there is no comparison. Also, any satin black parts you paint will turn out awesome. Great folks on this forum and I would not steer you wrong. Get a $10.00 rattle can and give it a try; you won't use anything else.
Unfortunately I already got the POR15 and Rust inhibitor so I think I will be going with that. I am just waiting for the weather to pass and do some finishing touches before painting.
Should I wipe everything with mineral spirits before painting?
Now that I'm checking their website. POR 15 explicitly says "DO NOT USE SOLVENT-BASED CLEANERS". That includes both mineral spirits & Laquer Thinner correct?
Don't wipe lacquer thinner on anything before spraying, it leads to fish eyes. You can buy 1 liter cans of wax and grease remover or Final Wash from Napa or Carquest.
This is the final product. Thank you all very much for your help and advice. It was all considered and put to good use! In case anyone wants to know the materials and process I am going to list them below
1. Klean Stripe Aircraft Stripper (2x Quart Tins)
2. 6x 3M Stripping Pads
3. Wire Brush
4. Drill Wire brush attachment (those tight corners)
5. 2x Por 15 Chassic Black Spray Paint
6. Por 15 Marine Degreaser & Cleaner
7. Por 15 Rust Prep (Zinc Phosphate coating)
8. 2x 3M Rubberized Undercoat cans
9. Plastic Drop Cloth
10. Masking tape
11. Tin foil (to cover parts from overspray)
Specialty Tools
1. Gas powered Pressure washer 3100 PSI (was a HUGE help)
2. 3M Organic Vapor particulate Respirator (DO NOT FORGET THIS)
3. Safety goggles (DO NOT FORGET THIS)
4. Tyvek Suit
I also ended up coating the lower part of the frame with 3M Rubberized Undercoating to add another layer of rust protection. This is why some parts of the frame seem to have a rough finish. (There was also some pretty bad rust under the battery tray, but it's been reinforced)
Let me know what you all think. It's my first time repainting an engine bay, so I'm sure there were some things that could have been better.
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