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Glass Fuel Filter - Change it?

9K views 13 replies 10 participants last post by  GypsyR 
#1 ·
My 65 coupe (with 302) has a glass, inline fuel filter. I was told these are dangerous and could pose a fire hazard if the glass breaks/cracks while driving. Should I swap the glass one for the standard chrome ones?
 

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#3 ·
You definitely want to get that glass filter out of there and into the trashcan as fast as you can. Especially where the one in the pic is located - a few vibrations and bumps and the glass cracks or breaks right there in front of the distributor. Whooooosssshhh!
 
#4 ·
They are also pointless. A metal inlet filter, such as those used by Ford from 66 on, is all you need. Put one of those on your carb, and get rid of all that rubber fuel hose, which is as dangerous as the glass filter, put a proper steel fuel line in.
 
#5 ·
back in the mid 80s a good friend lost his souped up, tricked out 71 Nova SS 427 to a busted glass filter while driving up I-91. he had well over $15 large into it in 1980s money. i always said no big loss but he never found that funny. and that's just one i witnessed, i heard 50 more horror stories
 
#9 ·
Just sayin'. Because OMG! Glass filters, OMG!
I've been running a glass filter on an old Harley since 1987. I've found I need to change the rubber end seals about every ten years or so. The filter element itself is a cleanable "rock wool" material I've not seen anywhere else. I have one on my '67 too, but it has a plastic mesh element in it which I like less. It's currently showing me that the rust I've been cleaning out of my long sitting fuel system is almost taken care of. It came from a boat store, as did the one on our 351W ski boat. The newest filters I've seen like these at the auto parts stores have rather crappy plastic hose fittings on them and I don't care for them at all. The glass tube on these is thick enough to not worry about. The real issue is that they screw apart so you can clean them. In the right circumstances firmly clamped rubber lines can unscrew the fittings with engine vibrations. I've noticed that since running teflon/stainless lines on the old Harley that this never happens anymore.
A totally different animal is the glass fuel-water separator in a small diesel truck that I have, but it's glass.
Metal filters are OK and rarely leak. But they are not bullet proof and you can't tell when one is clogged without removing it. Take care to not to do something like mount them solidly to the chassis and then have the line run to engine vibration. Such a setup can eventually put a split in the filter. Yes, I've seen this happen.
The plastic ones are also OK. I just don't like them much. Quality can be hit or miss. I've had a couple of them split open from vibration too. Also had the element come loose inside of one. Old motorcycle vibration can do weird stuff. Lessons learned on extreme usage can often be applied to more sedate usage. IE,"If it's tough enough to put up with THAT, it'll last forever on THIS." I do like to use these on motorcycles, lawn equipment, or anything where fuel is gravity fed and where "Is the gas on?" is a primary troubleshooting question when it won't start miles from anywhere.
What filter you use I think doesn't matter as much as the care you take in doing the installation of it. Also keep in mind that with any antique machinery, the entire fuel system bears inspection once in a while. This is a lot more obvious and easier on a motorcycle where it's all hanging out in front of you, but still. I've had two old Mustangs now split the fuel hose where it passes through the front chassis. Caught the first just by poking around and happening to notice wet. The second I knew to watch out for and it didn't actually leak until I grabbed and wiggled it.
All that said, you can buy some fine bullet proof looking aluminum canister style filters from the racing catalogs that should outlast everything I've mentioned so far. Plus you can open them for cleaning and inspection. They tend to not be cheap but...
Over the years I've put out a lot of car fires. I'd have to sit and think how many. More than I have fingers, I know. None I'd blame on a glass fuel filter but I'm not a thousand career firemen who'd be better to poll on such things. I carry a fire extinguisher in all our cars. Wished I had one on a motorcycle a time or three also. I hate gas fires. Ain't changing out my glass filters though.
 
#10 ·
Mine leaked. No fire, but still rather unsettling.Leaked at the rubber seals. It was maybe 2 years old. I think it was a Mr. Gasket brand from a local auto parts store. The glass doesn't seem to be the issue, it's the seals giving out. No doubt the older stuff was made way better.
 
#11 ·
OMG , this forum is already helping me. I replaced the filter inside the glass housing the day I brought the car home after draining the tank of its old gas. I have these on both my old fords. One is a 1970 F100 Short Bed with 302 and 3 on the tree and my new addition is a 1968 Fastback 2+2 289 automatic. I will replace these ASAP.
 
#12 ·
About fifteen years ago I swore off buying anything with Mr.Gasket on the package. I just gave up on that brand completely. I'd love to find another glass filter of the vintage and quality that I use on my main motorcycle but I have no clue as to its heritage. I happen know for a fact it will filter sugar grains out of my gas too. :)
 
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#13 ·
I guess it depends on what you have for a carburetor.

For a '65, you should have a large canister filter attached to the fuel pump. If the pump has been changed to the "later" style, then......

a. For an Autolite carb, you can use the screw-in metal filter used for '66 and up or, if you don't want a rubber hose connection, the metal filter for a '80 Fairmont 255-2V, currently $1.03 at rockauto.com

More Information for GK INDUSTRIES FG795

b. For a Holley, you can use the AC paper or bronze inlet filters, $1.07 each on rockauto.com... 2 required for dual inlet carbs.

More Information for GK INDUSTRIES FG795

c. If you have an Edelbrock/Carter AVS then the fuel inlet filter kit from Edelbrock... $39.95 from Jegs and Summit....

 
#14 ·
That's a nice kit but when I use that style I find I prefer to use a 90 degree elbow between the end of the line and the filter. That way the hose/line to the pump runs across the intake behind the distributor. Maybe others like to route theirs differently. Maybe they could show pictures so I can see if I like their way better? :)
 
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