Not at all sure if another converter will do what you want but not really my area.
How I'd do it.
Disconnect the battery.
Take the radiator shroud loose. (Don't have to remove.)
Disconnect the TV cable completely.
Raise the car.
Remove driveshaft. Have a catch pan or a tailshaft plug ready for the small amount of fluid that will leak. The yoke may also dribble a bit out as you set the driveshaft down.
Disconnect shift linkage.
Take the starter off.
Remove the crossmember. This will let the tail of the transmission DROP some. So you'd want to ease it down instead. Pro shops have tall purpose-made transmission jacks. A "pole jack" works great if you have one. A guy I know used a shop cart with a sort of metal milk crate upside down on top of it. Sounds silly but I used his setup more than a few times and it actually worked great. You have to crouch down a bit to ease the lift down and then duck walk under to get the bolts out. Then raise the lift back up. (More ATF leaking out the tail!) It doesn't hurt anything to let the transmission hang like except on some cars the fan might hit the top of the shroud (not if you loosened it) and rod type throttle linkages sometimes touch the firewall. Hanging like that makes the bellhousing bolts a LOT more accessible and that's how the pro's do it. (Except for Jeep Cherokee 4.0's)
Now that you have some more room, crack the transmission lines but don't take them off yet. They'll dribble.
Remove dust cover/access plate is you have it and the converter nuts. Converter nuts are "shallow" so I like to use my best quality and least worn socket on them. On some setups (not likely) you have to use the starter hole to access the nuts. When the last nut is off I like to push the converter rearward a smidge to pop it loose from the crankshaft pilot hole. Sometimes they stick, paint on the converter nub is a prime cause.
Pull the NSS/backup light connector loose.
Remove bellhousing bolts. I like to pull all but one on each side and then prepare whatever is going to be holding the transmission. Jack, cart rig, weightlifter helper, etc. If you have floor jack style transmission jack then lower down to it and get your creeper
THEN, when the transmission is supported, crack and remove the two remaining bolts. Don't break them loose until you are ready to fully remove them. Though I have been known to crack them loose and then retighten them
almost as tight as they were. Hanging the transmission off two bolts is only OK if those two bolts are tight.
Remove the cooling lines and plug them or let them dribble.
You should be able to yank the tailhousing from side to side to pop the transmission off the engine. Sometimes they stick (paint and/or corrosion) and you have to pry a bit. Don't pry against the flexplate, you can bend it.
With a tall pro-type transmission jack you can tilt the transmission towards the driver's side. If your setup doesn't allow such tilting, try really hard to keep the dipstick from popping out as fluid will GUSH from the hole. There are plugs for that but you can't really swap one in fast enough.
And it should be out. Anytime you swap/remove a converter it's an excellent idea to swap in a new pump seal too.
How I don't do it.
Obviate a lot of the mess making by pulling the pan and draining the fluid first. This will not drain the converter or do anything for the cooling line dribble but does for most of the tailshaft leaks and the dipstick tube is no longer an issue.
Don't ask why I don't drain them first, I don't have a good answer. I feel like I should have just lied earlier and said I did.
Lastly.
You may or may not have to remove some or a lot of exhaust. I have no idea what you have. On some I have seen you can take the exhaust loose just at the muffler so the drivetrain will droop correctly. Others with all welded joints and an x-pipe have to be pulled from the headers back. It's not unusual that dealing with the exhaust is one of the most difficult parts of the job.
Off the top of my head. I may have forgotten something.