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subtle but purposeful

2K views 25 replies 10 participants last post by  GypsyR 
#1 ·
I want to run a trans cooler however space is tight with my 68 and having A/C stacked in front of the radiator reduces options. I was checking out some mustang pics and a light bulb may have went off. I noticed the factory 67/68 GT350 lower valance has a larger cut-out and retains the bumper/lights. I wonder if that valance will open some room for a stack plate cooler? Any one have one installed?

I figured if it will work the change would be subtle but purposeful...

thoughts?
 
#2 ·
Hmmm…

The car already has a trans cooler.

The 67 Shelby valence and 68 Shelby valence are completely different. And yes, both have a larger intake opening. What you'd need, though, is a 67-68 Mustang valence with a 65 "R Model" style opening, where the license plate is now.



Improving overall cooling will get you what you want.
 
#3 ·
thank you! the R model style is what I was looking at. Yes it should allow more air to flow esp lower on the radiator by the built in trans cooler. I have a hughes finned +1 qrt pan on it now and just from in-town drives in 105 degree weather the temp is normally 150-165 max so far with my IR gun. I haven't ran it on the highway yet and that is my concern. I moving to ohio and the route to work is highway vs side streets in Tucson. I will check it with my IR gun but just looking for options if needed.
 
#5 ·
Curious. The optimum operating temperature of the transmission fluid is between 175-225 F. So if you are seeing 165 "max" you're already overcooling it. Depends on what exactly you are pointing your IR gun at though. Ideal engine coolant temperature for maximum performance and efficiency is about 200 F (at the engine, not the radiator) and rule of thumb engine oil temperatures should run between 20-40 degrees higher than the coolant.
Just sayin.
 
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#13 ·
If it were running at 200F I would consider it ideal, Not sure where you're getting your suggested temperatures from. Transmissions aren't supposed to run cold. Some of the latest automatics now have internal heaters to speed getting the ATF up to operating temperature. (Dodge trucks, for example.) There exist thermostatic bypasses (factory on many late model Fords) which would let you run as big a cooler as you liked and never overcool. Simple.
IR guns are nice diagnostic tools but not a real substitutes for gauges. You can buy a transmission temperature gauge if you're interested in REALLY keeping an eye on things.
I happen to think oil coolers in Shelby type valances DO look cool. And since I do stuff to my cars sometimes solely for coolness, who am I to tell somebody else what visually pleases them. Use a bypass and it's certainly all good mechanically.
 
#14 ·
maybe i need a re-baseline on my education. I was under the understanding that C4 trans temps for normal operation were supposed to be 170-185 and that anything higher would start reducing longevity.

i typically do mods for purpose but i do like the look of the lower R lower valance...just brings a little bit of mean look, like actually having some meats on the rear.

i did find a thermal bypass that wouldn't route fluid through the cooler until the temp reached a predetermined temp.
 
#15 ·
Call it a thermal bypass if you like, it's all good and an excellent modification to make. It tickles me that I spent mor eon the bypass on my motorcylce than I did the oil cooler. Stock Ford bypasses are easy to come by in salvage yards though. Pretty sure I have one from a Taurus stashed somewhere I've been meaning to put on my F150 as it sees a lot of short trips. (Thanks for reminding me of that little project.)
One thing I personally don't like about running a transmission too cold is that it tends not to boil the moisture out of the transmission, especially with lots of short trips. And you WILL have moisture from the condensation resulting form heating and cooling cycles. You can have the same issues with engines but that's another story. One obvious problem resulting from this is that the steel separator plate in the valve body rusts. That rust will pit and even eat away at that plate, to start with. Lots of folks here have dabbled in C4 rebuilding or installing shift kits. Everybody who has seen this pitting raise your hand. So to speak. :)
See my signature? I'm just some guy, you don't have to listen to me. We're on the internet. Google "ideal automatic transmission operating temperature" or something.
 
#16 ·
See my signature? I'm just some guy, you don't have to listen to me. We're on the internet. Google "ideal automatic transmission operating temperature" or something.
I've been on this forum a long time. I would take GypsyR's advice over the results of a Google search almost every time. And if they happened to agree, it would be a no-brainer.

Just my studied observation...

MrFreeze
 
#18 ·
Your main worry seems to be where to locate the cooler for its size. I will add i don't think the trans cooler needs to be very large.
On my Silverado with HD towing package the cooler is only about 6"X10", it only covers a small portion of the AC and rad cores.
You could "hide" it almost anywhere and use a small fan if needed. I have to imagine that going through a cooler with little airflow has to be at least as good as cooling with the hot radiator.:shrug:
 
#23 ·
street, 3.4 gears and 2500-2600 stall, I want the trans fluid to stay in ideal operating temp to ensure the longevity of trans life. It's fine around town so far, moving to Ohio in a week and the drive is all freeway and twice the distance I currently do to work.
 
#24 ·
The temperature you need to run to boil moisture out of the fluid (at the least) has nothing to do with which automatic transmission you have.
Gauges are good, absolutely get one. Post #23 is the first mention I've seen of you running a rather higher stall converter than stock. Rule of thumb is indeed that a higher stall runs hotter but that's not a whole lot higher so you may be OK. With a gauge you'll know for sure. Again, like earlier, with a thermostatic bypass an extra cooler would be all good anyway.
 
#25 ·
Thanks Gypsy, the gauge will be on my to-do list right after I move to ohio in two weeks. I will check it with IR gun after it's 1st drive on the freeway to-from work as see where the temp is at. The new trans/convertor only have about 200 miles on them. I am pretty sure the hughes pan has a flat portion cast into the side/lower portion of the pan that can be drilled and tapped for a sensor....man that pan is sealed perfectly right now and not leaking a single drop :surprise:
 
#26 ·
Aluminum pans are pretty easy to seal up, it's the tin can ones that are a pain. Though I completely understand how you don't want to unseal and drop a perfectly sealed pan with good fluid in it. An alternative is a tee you can plumb into a cooling line and the sender screws into it instead of the pan. Not real fond of this one in particular but the whole kit gives you the idea. (I don't why there are two tees. Pretty sure you only need one.)
https://www.amazon.com/80212-Transmission-Temperature-Gauge-Kit/dp/B0002A596I
 
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