I'm thinking of dropping off my 289 short block at the local auto parts store machine shop to be rebuilt. I dismissed the kid originally because he kinda seemed unsure of himself. Talked to a farmer neighbor yesterday who is into old cars and tractors who said he does good work and the "unsure thing" is just his way.
So the plan would be the 289 short block with forged pistons, stock reconditioned rods and crank, reusing the TW170 heads with a re-pop HiPo hydraulic flat tappet cam. With the limiting factors being the HiPo manifolds and the 2" Arvinode exhaust I would expect 300 hp at most. Would the stock crank and rods be up to the task?
Thanks for the reply! I have already port matched the HiPo manifolds to the heads, and amazingly enough they still sealed!
I have a FiTech fuel injection and a Spectra EFI tank gathering dust in my garage. I would be more than happy with a reliable 250-300HP. My brief experience with the 331 let me know the a bunch of modifications to the chassis would be necessary to use that kind of power. It's a nice original completely rust free car. I'm OK with that and I've decided that I won't cut into it.
Hmmm… I suspect the price would be a rougher, higher idle. On the other hand, the C9OZ-6250-C runs like a stock cam, except more power through the whole range.
This card is a 289 with that cam, Performer RPM intake with 600 cfm carb, stock distributor (recurved), headers, and port-matched iron heads.
In case your monitor is blurry, the max power is 323.5 hp @ 5300 rpm.
You should be good as long as the "kid" knows what he's doing.Get a copy of the Tom Monroe book How to rebuild your small block Ford with that book any monkey could put one together. I did:nerd:
Your block is probably going to be the limit to how much power you can make, not the rotating assembly. The weaker 5.0 roller motor block is rated to something like 425 hp by Ford and up to about 550-600 hp by others.
I ran a stock bottom end in my 289 for a number of years of track days before I changed to H beam rods. Spun it to 7,000 all day long. Not until I started spinning it to 7,500 did it all go bad!
C9OZ does way over 5 grand. Way over if you've got the valve train to support it. Didn't see a lot of power increase to warrant the rod-stretching risk of that higher rpm. I always get a kick out of "advertised" numbers.
The key is to get the rotating assembly balanced *perfectly*. With forged pistons 7,000 rpm is (quite/easily) possible. Mine spins to 6,000+ with regular grade gasoline, and to right under 7,000 with premium.
I'm surprised it lasted that long. Checked hundreds of 1M cranks at JBA. Nearly
every one had small cracks. Seemed like they came that way from the factory.....
You can hear the engine sound slightly different in it's tone about a second before it lets go
On the Corral there was a thread about Scat cranks breaking with several folks showing their blown motors I seem to recall seeing 3, 347 cast cranks and 1 Eagle forged crank breaking. What is interesting in all cases the cranks all broke in the same spot. One guy was lucky and was just driving down the street at low RPM when the crank let go. He shut the motor off right away and his block was ok. The guy with the forged Eagle crank said he was cruising down the street at 2K RPM when it let go.
I used to run triple springs and Valvoline Racing 50W.
Peak power was usually near 6300 rpm, but I would occasionally run 7k and did hit 7300 one particular time. My motor made ugly sounds like the video above - lucky for me the weakness was a NON hardened rocker stud. I found out it does make a difference....lol. I replaced all of the studs in the front yard and all was good - boy was the pucker factor high.
Now days I run a roller 5.0 dressed up to look 'day 2". Never sees over 6000.
Reading the responses on this thread, thanks everyone, would suggest I have everything balanced. The kid at the auto parts machine shop would have to send that out to be done. There is a machine shop in a pole barn behind a house 10 miles from me that seems to have every state of the art machine shop tool ever made. The problem is that there are 0 reviews on the shop and none of the locals even know that it exists. I called the guy and all he said was bring it down and he'd have a look.
On the website click through the gallery to see all the fancy machines. Polarek Engines
That's some nice $#@!
It's likely he knows how to use it too.
I sell bearings to an old geezer that works out of his garage in North Hills.
He does rear ends. Nobody's ever heard of him. He used to do the pumpkins
for Kevin Harvick..... I'll bet you've heard of that guy though.
I just Googled Jim Polarek the owner, he's my county councilman. A blink'in politician! I'd feel more comfortable using him if he just got out of the pen after serving time for manslaughter.:wink:
Knowing the way things work around here, he's from a rich farming family that indulges his hobbies. Hope he likes Fords!
I'd go with the guy who has the best equipment (Polarek). It will cost more but everything will be exactly on spec.
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