I bought a rebuilt distributor for my '66 289 2V (with thermactor exhaust) and have a few questions. The original distributor has the following stamps on the attachment arms at the bottom of the cam lobe: 10L, 15L on the top and 10R, 15R on the bottom. The rebuilt distributor has the following stamps on the attachment arms: 13L, 18L on the top and 13R and 18R on the bottom. the questions are:
1) Are these numbers referring to the mechanical weights or to the springs? (or both?)
2) What do these numbers actually mean? (e.g.., mass of the weights, spring tension, ...)
3) What does the 'L' and 'R' after the number mean?
3) Should I put the old weights/springs/cam lobe into the rebuilt unit or keep it as is?
As a data point I did put the rebuilt unit in as is and didn't notice any significant difference from the old distributor in performance hence the questions.
Thanks.
My advice- By the time you get the so-called "rebuilt" distributor running properly, you could have sent it to Dan Nolan and actually got it rebuilt correctly (including advance adjustment) for less. My advice- Return that ill-assembled parts collection to the store and get your correct distributor in the mail to Dan.
The new one didn't run any better than the original because store-bought "rebuilt" distributors are never adjusted properly for correct advance.
22GT are you a past or present employee of Glazier/Nolan Mustang Barn? I get the strong impression you work for them, or at minimum the most dedicated unpaid marketing agent they could ask for to my surprise without GZN being a supporting vendor on VMF...
Thanks but that sounds like weeks in the making. I may do just what you suggested but am still interested in the answers to the questions - at least the theory part. I'm assuming the original distributor wasn't a collection of ill-assembled parts since it is the one that came with the engine.
Actually, the only complicating factor is Dan is about to go on vacation. His turnaround is usually about 2 days. Even with his vacation, it won't be "weeks".
Your original has the advantage of being original. And simply moving the springs and weights and rotating platform to the "new" distributor won't help, because these things go out of adjustment with time. No doubt your old distributor is way off. So is your "new" one. So-called "remanufactured" distributors are assembled from stray cores. The centrifugal advance is assembled from parts in a bin, pure luck if the springs or weights are even close to what you need, and assembeld. Period. They are not adjusted. The vacuum advance might be new, or even a used one checked for leaks, and installed. They are not adjusted. Basically what you paid for was a new bushing installed in a used distributor.
Call Dan tomorrow, find out his schedule, and set up having your car made right.
I agree 100% with the comments that your rebuilt is not going to help you out much except for the new bushing, and I suppose it came with new points and condenser, that's a plus.
The numbers: only one of the weights in your distributor is located adjacent to the stop pin. The other one is an alternate timing choice. For example , if the 15L weight was next to the stop pin, then the distributor is set up for 30 degrees of mechanical advance (15 distributor/camshaft degrees X 2 = 30 crankshaft degrees. So if you set up your initial timing at 6 degrees BTDC + the 30 degrees mechanical advance, you would end up with 36 degrees total timing, plus whatever your vacuum advance provided.
Don't get hung up on the 15L /15R stampings. Only one side up will work.
I bought a rebuilt distributor for my '66 289 2V (with thermactor exhaust) and have a few questions. The original distributor has the following stamps on the attachment arms at the bottom of the cam lobe: 10L, 15L on the top and 10R, 15R on the bottom. The rebuilt distributor has the following stamps on the attachment arms: 13L, 18L on the top and 13R and 18R on the bottom.
65/69 289/302 distributor came with one of two cams:
C5AZ-12210-B (10L/15L)
C5AZ-12210-A (13L/18L)
My original 1966 289 (2 bbl) distributor has 13L/18L slots. It was set in the 13L slot from the factory:
The specific cam/slot installed by the factory was a function of many factors (2V or 4V, auto or manual, emissions setup, etc). Ford lists no less than 6 distributor part numbers for 1966 289 2V, 3 for 1966 289 4v, and one for 1966 289 HiPo, each having a unique configuration.
I am not trying to imply that the reman dist the OP purchased is any way correct (or even close) for his application - I supply the above info merely to show what variations were possible for 289/302 engines and use my own original 289 2V as an example. I agree that the OP should have his original dist rebuilt and set up by a qualified person that has the necessary equipment, expertise , and replacement components. That person will require the exact specs on the 289 engine in question to set the dist up correctly.
You have one advantage- Your rubber sleeve is still on the limit stop. I usually had to replace that when I was adjusting distributors. It's pretty much not possible to get the adjustment right if that's missing, because the cam travels too far. It's often missing, especially on "remanufactured" distributors. The remans are usually missing the felt pad in the shaft under the rotor, too. That one is the oil supply for the advance cam.
Thanks guys. I just wanted to understand the numbers and how the setup worked. I did send an email to the MustangBarn to see when Dan could take it in. Another question (seems like there is always one more) - so are all the weights the same and it is the spring and slot size that determines how quickly the maximum advance will be achieved?
The '66 2-barrel 289 distributors with *Thermactor Emission used the 15L side. (30* mechanical advance)
The '66 2-barrel 289 distributors without TE used the 13L side. (26* mechanical advance)
Basically double the numbers above and that is the mechanical advance.
Initial advance + Mechanical Advance = TOTAL ADVANCE.
The '66 2-barrel 289 distributors with Thermal Emission used the 15L side. (30* mechanical advance)
The '66 2-barrel 289 distributors without TE used the 13L side. (26* mechanical advance)
Basically double the numbers above and that is the mechanical advance.
Initial advance + Mechanical Advance = TOTAL ADVANCE.
Thanks for the info! Could the missing rubber be the reason for engine ping at acceleration? Have a Flamethrower coil with Pertronix 1 and a setting of 12 deg before. Everything fine during idle and cruising. By the way: I have two different springs inside the distributor. One hard one at the 13L and a thinner one at the 18L one. Is this correct?
That depends on at what rpm the ping starts and when does it go away. If it begins only on light acceleration and goes away as rpms increase it may be too aggressive a vacuum advance setting. If it begins at lower rpm on hard acceleration and decreases as engine load decreases it is too much total timing at that rpm and a heavier spring(s) might be needed. If it pings at higher (say, above 3,000 rpm) but not lower rpm on hard acceleration, then a limiter cap or less initial advance may be needed. I use hardware store clear vinyl hose, cut into small pieces, for limiter caps.
Thanks folks, just took some wiperwater hose and now everything is perfect. Ignition set to 12 ( petronix and Flamethrower) and engine runs perfect and without any ping. Thanks folks!
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