Classic Car Blasting - Page 6 - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #76 of 86 (permalink) Old 06-10-2014, 05:49 PM
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I didn't have time to read through the whole thread. It this has been mentioned before than disregard.

Your tip size should dictate your working pressure a bit. I use a 3/8" air fitting as a tip and a ball valve as the trigger. I have a 240v compressor. I don't recall the HP or CFM. I use a 40 lb pot from harbor freight. I have to supplement the air with a 5 hp gas compressor. I can usually empty the pot about the time the air runs out. I was using copper slag at 45 psi. This setup was about a 4-5 minute working time max. Just an FYI. I recall the recommended compressed air hp charts were a little lower than ideal.

Sense is not as common as you think.
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post #77 of 86 (permalink) Old 09-23-2014, 10:16 AM
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Question for the blasting experts.

I am finally looking to have my 67 fastback repainted. It was originally green, then repainted blue in ~1974 in lacquer. The second paint job was ****ty and the car has body filler here and there, the extent of which I do not know. However the car is almost entirely rust free. Few small spot (edge of door, bottom edge of drivers quarter). Floor,underside, framerails, cowl, etc...are in fantastic shape as its been in the garage its entire life. The drivetrain I went through about 12 years ago and I wasnt looking to tear the entire car apart and have it rotisserie blasted. I have had a local blaster (and very highly recommended from several auto restoration shops in my area) tell me that he can do the car and tape/seal off the engine bay, interior (which is mostly out anyway) and keep the sand out of areas that I dont want it. Again, im not concerned with the underside of my car, just the painted body panels. Is this at all realistic? Would you ever blast a car without it being completely stripped?

Thanks in advance for your advice

Joe
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post #78 of 86 (permalink) Old 12-31-2014, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClassicCarBlasting View Post
It really comes down to 5 things:

1. Blast media
2. Blast PSI
3. Nozzle size
4. Blaster experience
5. Time

As an example, we blast using 40-70 (fine/med) crushed glass which is softer than many media that are commonly used, like coal slag (aka "black beauty"). We also blast between 40-70 PSI max, which is very low. We use small 1/4" nozzle (small for a commercial-sized pot). The angle (user experience) that you are using is also a big factor. The down side is, #1-3 above translate into taking more time to blast. Blasting a full car body correctly takes quite a bit of time and patience.

From an example perspective, we commonly talk to people that have been told by sandblasters (that don't typically focus on car bodies) that they can do a whole body in anywhere from 3 (the lowest I have heard) to 5 hours. This may be true, but to accomplish this you have to use a very aggressive media and/or a high blast PSI...neither which is good for body panels. The aggressive "profile" that is left on the metal, warping, heat, blow-thru are all common issues using the "strip it fast" strategy. We have actually had several car bodies in the shop that have been incorrectly blasted and require panel replacement (typically warped roofs, hoods, and qtrs).

By comparison, it takes us about 12 hours to completely strip a shell (inside/outside/underneath).

When choosing a blaster...ask ALL of the above. Also make sure that they have done several cars and you can call references. Nearly all sandblasters will say, "we can do that." Be leery of pricing under $500 for a full body and time estimates below 8 hours.

I hope this is helpful?
Regarding the 40 - 70 crushed glass vs black beauty that you use, how much softer / less abrasive is this?

We recently started stripping the shell. We did the roof and quarter exteriors by hand, stripper and sander to the metal; I was worried about warping.

The frame and engine compartment we'll do with a HF blaster, thicker, more supported metal, we should be fine.

The interior roof has me a little worried, there's some pretty heavy rust here so we'll be blasting.

So back to my original question, is crushed glass abrasive enough to remove heavy but solid rust?

Wife,........."You drove how far for that thing?"
Daughter,..."Theres no inside and it stinks."
Friend,......."Dude, thats a rusted piece of sheet."
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post #79 of 86 (permalink) Old 12-31-2014, 10:01 AM
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Option as well:

Automotive Videos - Dustless Blasting

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post #80 of 86 (permalink) Old 12-31-2014, 01:56 PM
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Dry Ice

I heard dry Ice was a really nice... blasting media..
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post #81 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-23-2015, 10:28 AM
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OK, I am really thinking about getting a set-up like this, I live in Stockton and would be willing to travel to you, depending on how far you are, is there enough people out-there that could use this service?
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post #82 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-23-2015, 11:19 AM
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You did price it out right? The guy that came to do mine had about $55K in his system. This did not include the $50K truck he was pulling it with.

Regards,
Patrick
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post #83 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-23-2015, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by patrickstapler View Post
You did price it out right? The guy that came to do mine had about $55K in his system. This did not include the $50K truck he was pulling it with.
Yes, I called them about it, they have different models and prices, I talked to a guy in Texas, that put one together himself and it was alot cheaper.
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post #84 of 86 (permalink) Old 09-07-2015, 05:01 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by stangg View Post
Now to Phil... Do you blast aluminum wheels? The clear coat on my son's '05 Ranger wheels has flaked off in several spots and the aluminum is tarnished / lightly corroded. I was thinking of bringing the wheels up for a blast before re clearing. The aluminum finish is a combination of satin and machined finish.

Thanks...
Sorry guys, I haven't been here in a while...we have been busy blasting. We just finished car body #127 in the past 2.5 years.

We do blast wheels including modern aluminum. For all non-powder coated wheels we charge $40 per wheel for a complete blast (face, bead and inside).

Regards,

Phil

Full Car Media Blasting: www.classiccarblasting.com
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post #85 of 86 (permalink) Old 09-07-2015, 05:40 AM Thread Starter
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There are lots of people asking about Dustless Blasting lately. To be clear, dustless blasting uses crushed glass + water + a water additive. I am no expert on dustless, but as always, there is no magic.

We prefer to blast indoors in a blast booth. This allows us to completely clean a body shell and do the both sides of body panels, put it up in the air and do the underside, etc. In other words, we provide a complete media blast for someone doing a full restoration. Yes our customers usually disassemble most, if not all, of the car.

In my opinion, the benefit of dustless is they will come to you and provide you with an outside blast of the car. For someone that does not want to dis-assemble their car, I believe this is the biggest benefit.

Like the marketing behind soda blasting 15 years ago, Dustless is getting a lot of press as manufacturers of the systems promote selling it. Here are my opinions surrounding some of the hype of dustless blasting:

1) As noted here, the equipment / start up costs are high
2) It is marketed as "environmentally clean." Clarification: they are still blasting with a media (crushed glass, which is clean), but the car is still being stripped, meaning that all of that old material is going somewhere...now it is just mixed with water and going into the ground! It does make a mess.
3) It is not any cheaper and is frequently more expensive based on local quotes that I have seen.
4) You typically do not get a complete blast (inside, outside and underneath).
5) No warping. Where this may be true, there is a lot of misunderstanding about media blasting and metal warping. It is not because of how "cool" the process is. More on this below...
6) Metal profile: you want a slight profile for good adhesion...not a smooth surface!

...not a myth, but do you really want treated water seeping into all of your seams and panels?

Anyway, back to warping. As mentioned by someone in an early post, we do not blast at a high enough pressure with a large enough abrasive to create heat (black beauty [aka coal slag] at 150 psi will cause plenty of heat). I can stand on the opposite side of a panel being blasted and hold my hand on it... no heat. However, blasting the under side of a hood, underside of a trunk, underside of a roof can STILL CAUSE WARPING. So why can this happen on thinner metal (sheet metal)? It is caused by the abrasion of the metal which molecularly changes the metal. An even pass over the metal causes no reaction at low psi with a "soft media." However, if you do the underside of that same piece of sheet metal and it is not a consistent even pass (such as the "triangles" inside the frame work of the underside of a hood) it will cause these sections to "drop." Or if you blast right up to the underside of a roof frame, these frames will "ghost" into the sheet metal above it.

Therefore, we do not blast the "triangles" on the underside of a hood (we do the frame work only) and we don't blast right up to the roof frames...we stay back a few inches.

And yes, you need a LOT more air than you think! Here is a chart for reference:



Sorry for the long post...I hope this is helpful!

Phil

Full Car Media Blasting: www.classiccarblasting.com

Last edited by ClassicCarBlasting; 09-07-2015 at 05:43 AM.
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post #86 of 86 (permalink) Old 09-07-2015, 09:23 PM
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Input from an experienced hand is Always good!!

Wife,........."You drove how far for that thing?"
Daughter,..."Theres no inside and it stinks."
Friend,......."Dude, thats a rusted piece of sheet."
Son,.........."This old car is cool."

USMC Security Forces, Kamiseya Japan, 0311

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