Guaging interest to see if anyone would be interested. We are in the process (actually have 10 at the powdercoaters as I post this)of making a true bolt on kit for the 67-70 Mustang. No cutting, drilling are grinding required. Uses a 12 way adjustable true coil over shock standard. Comes with all the hardware you need to assemble the kit, for under $2000. Everything is fixture TIG welded, including chrome-moly control arms.
I'm interested. I'm looking for a reasonably priced conversion.
We need spec's, though. Who's shocks? Springs?
Your method of mounting the top of the shock is very interesting. It puts a bending moment on the shock tower that it wasn't designed for. That's not to say it can't easily take it, but it's noteworthy.
The Mustang chassis was designed to support the car at the spring pocket at the top of the tower...
The kit uses a QA1 shock and spring but, we are also an AFCO, Koni, Strange and Hypercoil dealer. We could substitute other brands and adjust for the difference in price.
I'm interested. I'm looking for a reasonably priced conversion.
We need spec's, though. Who's shocks? Springs?
Your method of mounting the top of the shock is very interesting. It puts a bending moment on the shock tower that it wasn't designed for. That's not to say it can't easily take it, but it's noteworthy.
The Mustang chassis was designed to support the car at the spring pocket at the top of the tower...
We looked into that before we made this kit. There should be no more stress on it than with the factory set up. The shock is mounted out a little further at the top than the factory center line (if looking down from the top). The inner structure is well supported from the factory with factory inner bracing and is mounted to close to the top to ever move. I'll try to get some more pictures of the added bracket that we will supply with the kit.
From a practicality / cost standpoint, I'm not crazy about that elaborate bracket. I'd rather leave it out if it's not really necessary. It will be a dirt catcher and cause hell in routing brake lines. The brake line bracket (where the brake hose connects) bolts to the frame right under the shock tower. That area needs to remain clear.
Again, your original bracket might work just fine - I've just never seen anone try to load a shock tower like that. Bringing the top mount in closer to the tower reduces the bending on the tower, but it makes the shock and spring slightly less effective (perpendicular to the LCA is ideal).
I'd like to see more details of the hardware. What kind of pivot do you use for the LCA? Strut rod? Is it all spherical rod ends? What kind of pivot are you using for the UCA?
I concur on the crazy bracket. This system is very similiar to my RON Morris set up. Except mine is made out of something that looks like depleated uranium.
The upper control arm link looks kinda fragile.
I have tested Rons at the track and on the street.
140 mph at willow and it feels like I am running 70 mph with a stock steering box.
All mounts have held up to a serious trashing and the SOCAL roads.
Have you guys race tested this supension? Design looks good, just make sure it can take a beating.
When I was thinking about scratching a setup like this together, this is how I envisioned mounting the shock. Nice setup, but cost kills these kits for me.
But, the real money comes from the control arms. Getting them right is paramount in any of these designed kits. I don't have the knowledge to know right from wrong.
Bill
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