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Generator to alternator conversion

7K views 37 replies 11 participants last post by  Oc47delta 
#1 ·
I have 64.5 mustang and wondering what options I have for alternator? If I went with a powermaster brand would I be able to just put it on without the alternator brackets and a wiring harness?


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#2 ·
I believe the wiring between the generator and alternator are quite different. They make GM 1 wire alternators in a ford case that are a direct fit in our vintage mustangs.

I run a Powermaster 100 amp unit and it works great! Literally ONE wire to hook up. I just wrapped electrical tap over the old alternator feed (in your case the the wires off the generator), removed the old voltage regulator, and tucked it all away.
 
#3 ·
You'll need the appropriate alternator brackets and will need to remove the old voltage regulator and its associated wiring (or leave it in place and terminate the old generator wiring with something insulated to prevent a short), and your GEN warning lamp bulb. This is assuming you're going with a "one wire" alternator solution.
 
#9 ·
The generator in my 64.5 never gave me an issue until I installed AC with a sanden compressor. Wanting to somewhat preserve some of the distinct characteristics of my 64.5, I opted to upgrade to a Powermaster PowerGen 82101. Installation was simple and uses the same brackets as original generator.
 
#13 ·
I have a generator in my 64.5 D Code coupe. I never thought about replacing it with an alternator. When I open my hood on cruise night of club events people would see the generator and either ask what it is or say not too many generator equipped cars running around anymore.

Keep the generator. They're cool. I think anyplace that rebuilds starters and alternators can rebuilt a generator if it ever craps out.
 
#14 ·
Well for now I'll let you guys know I decided to keep it. The reason is money's so tight for me it's the cheapest route for me plus my mechanic friend said keep it and so did the guy that fixes them. I'll keep for now. Thanks guys for all your help.


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#16 ·
I've been thinking about going back to the generator, since I'm not running a massive stereo system anymore, so the gen will be able to handle the usual stuff, although that PowerGen got my attention a couple years ago. So far the price is the hold up cuz that thing is expensive. I wonder if an electrical shop could do the same thing with a stock generator for cheaper. Hard part now is finding an old generator. I've looked a couple times over the past couple years and came up empty. Might be time to hit eBay and Craig's just for kicks and giggles.
 
#17 ·
I have a 64 1/2 6cyl with a generator that I parked in 1982. I always thought the generator was a PITA and plan to put a alternator on it before it goes back on the road. My issue is that on long road trips, say after 8+ hours of driving the headlights would dim to a brown glow and the engine would barely run. It was fine for a few hours, but for long drives it always let the battery die while driving the car. The only additional draw on the electrical system was the 8 track tape player.
Any ideas on what would cause a generator system to do this? I thought it was the nature of the beast as it was like that for so many years.
 
#22 ·
I tried several different generators, new brushes and re-cutting the contacts on the armature with a lathe. Is it possible the voltage regulator would get hot and malfunction and then work again after it cooled down? I do like the novelty of the generator, but I would have to have a reliable system.
 
#25 ·
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Okay so this is everything I ordered. Is this enough to hook up? The guy at the alternator shop said I shouldn't need a new wiring harness to get my warning light to work. Just the wiring will be different? He said the one I ordered there should have a built in regulator on back. Only other thing I don't know if I need is the bolts that bolt brackets directly to engine itself. Or are those in the kit I have?


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#27 ·
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Okay so this is everything I ordered. Is this enough to hook up? The guy at the alternator shop said I shouldn't need a new wiring harness to get my warning light to work. Just the wiring will be different? He said the one I ordered there should have a built in regulator on back. Only other thing I don't know if I need is the bolts that bolt brackets directly to engine itself. Or are those in the kit I have?


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The warning light is operated by the voltage regulator on the car, and is not connected to the alternator or generator. If the new alternator has a connection for the warning light, it will need to be connected. I don't see how the old voltage regulator can remain in the circuit.

The bolts in your spacer kit are all you need.
 
#30 ·
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Okay so this is everything I ordered. Is this enough to hook up? The guy at the alternator shop said I shouldn't need a new wiring harness to get my warning light to work. Just the wiring will be different? He said the one I ordered there should have a built in regulator on back.
I believe the Powermaster unit you reference is based on the GM 10si unit. It has an internal regulator. What you'll be doing is removing your existing voltage regulator, all the wires to the regulator EXCEPT the GRN/RED wire and the wires to the existing generator. You'll need a new, heavier gauge wire between the new alternator "BAT" terminal and the battery-side of the starter solenoid and connecting the GRN/RED wire that used to go to the voltage regulator to pin #1 on the Powermaster alternator. That will keep your existing GEN warning light functionality.
 
#28 ·
Just as a commentary, this is how so many Fuelie 'Vettes lost their Rochester Fuel Injection. It was excellent, but like anything, required periodic maintenance. So few mechanics knew how to do it, though, they would often just rip it off, using the excuse 'this is junk', and put a carburetor on.

It looks like this is happening to generators, too.

Just so you know, my "other" car has a generator, and has worked perfectly for over 60 years. When it needed rebuilding 30 years ago, I had it done by people who knew what they were doing. Still strong and smooth.
 
#35 ·
So the guy at generator shop said I can leave it way it's setup but need to move the a wires from the regulator on firewall to the batt. They're is two wires. Do I need to move both?
heres pic of alternator hook up and how the regulator on firewall is currently. Haven't done like I was told yet. Any help most appreciated


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#36 ·
The regulator goes "bye-bye". You'll need to splice the 2 wires connected to the "B" or "BAT" terminal on the regulator together or your horns will quit working. Just snip off the terminal ends, strip back, splice, solder and shrink wrap.

Next, remove the wire from the "F" or "FLD" terminal and snip off the terminal end and loop back and shrink wrap so the end is insulated.

Now, remove the 2 wires from the "A" or "ARM" terminal on the regulator, snip the terminal end off the heavy gauge wire, loop it and shrink wrap. The small gauge YEL/BLK wire needs to be extended, with a proper splice, and connected to the #2 terminal on your new alternator.

At the starter solenoid, the heavy gauge YEL/BLK wire gets disconnected, looped and shrink wrapped.

At the alternator, the wire connected to the "F" or "FLD" terminal, typically WHITE, get's snipped, looped and shrink wrapped. The wire connected to "G" or "GND", typically BLACK, gets connected to the new alternator chassis....there's usually a ground post.

Lastly, you'll need to make up a new alternator output cable, I recommend RED multi-strand primary wire in 8AWG with ring terminals on each end, one to attach to the alternator "B" or "BAT" terminal and the other end to the starter solenoid battery-side terminal. IIRC, you'll need a 1/4" ring for the alternator and a 5/16" ring for the solenoid...or maybe it's 3/8". "Old Timers" disease again.

Yank the old regulator.... the space now freed up will make a nice place for a Chrome Chrysler Ignition Box if you ever decide to convert to electronic ignition. LOL.
 
#37 ·
Hey quick question for all those who have changed to the power master 82101. My generator slung solder and is a big steel brick. I ordered a power master to replace it. Does anyone have some pics and how to info to switch it out? Especially how you manipulated the wiring coming from the voltage regulator? Thanks for any info that would help. My power master will be here tomorrow and I would love to be back on the road by tomorrow evening. Thanks, Mike.
 
#38 ·
Hey quick question for all those who have changed to the power master 82101. My generator slung solder and is a big steel brick. I ordered a power master to replace it. Does anyone have some pics and how to info to switch it out? Especially how you manipulated the wiring coming from the voltage regulator? Thanks for any info that would help. My power master will be here tomorrow and I would love to be back on the road by tomorrow evening. Thanks, Mike.
 
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