Chasers 66 Restomod 408 Coupe - Page 10 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #136 of 154 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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Well I tried to start the beast this weekend to no avail. I had a couple minor fuel leaks stemming from not having the lines tightened (whoops). After that, pressure held solid at 60psi and I started cranking...nothing.

After some troubleshooting there was no spark. Digging a bit further it would appear the 6AL is dead. Jumping the white wire yield nothing from the coil. The red light on the box acknowledges signal but it's not sending voltage to the coil.

My suspicion is that the old battery I had in for testing was bad (best i could get was 10v). The low voltage and an attempt to crank once or twice probably fried the box. I have a new optima red top in it now so that shouldnt be an issue. Guess we'll see....

I've gone ahead and ordered a new one. I'll probably send this one out to get fixed and put it on one of the other cars or keep it as a backup but, with as fragile as it seems to be, it doesnt make me feel very using these anymore.

Anywho...back to working on brakes.
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post #137 of 154 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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Groan...the MSD issues continue. I just received a new 6A (dont need the rev limiter). Hooked it up, same issue. The box clearly has power as the red light comes on. Cranking shows a signal as the red light flashes.
I did a spark test where you pull the coil wire from the distributor and jump it to a ground on the engine triggering off the white wire on the box. Still no spark. I also swapped the coil...same result.

So, that leads me to believe I may have a bad connection on the wire set from the box to the coil.
I'm also going to try grounding the coil direct to the chassis although, the box is grounded to the battery so I dont really see why that would effect anything. Stranger things have happened.

If all that fails, i'm going to wire the new box JUST to the battery...nothing to the wiring harness so I can completely isolate the ignition system itself.

Regardless...this is incredibly annoying...
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post #138 of 154 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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Oh boy i feel like a newb...figured out the problem and, like most of my posts, its going to be overly long winded with more detail than anyone really wants.

I learned something about the MSD boxes this afternoon. The 'trigger' wire doesnt behave like a standard trigger wire which merely tells a relay to allow full power. Instead it actually carries the voltage for the brain of the box. Thus, if you have the trigger wire and a good ground connected, the box will power on and pretend like everything is fine.
BUT, if you manage to say, knock off a loose connection from the main power wire from the junction block when putting in the AC due to some oversights (that will now get remedied in spades), the box will pretend like everything is ok but not actually capacitate the voltage to the coil.

In short, checked voltage on the main lines from the battery and saw nothing. Looked under the dash and saw a hoop connector without its wire on my junction block. Gave a little tug on the MSD positive wire and sure enough, it had no connector. I put a new one on, screwed it to the junction, did my tests which now gave spark! Hooked everything back up and voila...car fired! Had next to no fuel so it promptly shut down. hopefully have some video this weekend!
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post #139 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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Well the car has been being a jerk lately. It's fighting me on everything I try to do but with, patience and persistence, I'm moving the needle forward...just very slowly.

I got the climate control system installed for real. What a pain that was. I ended having to bend the heater core tubes back a little as there was not enough room for the heater hoses. Possibly because I moved the engine back about an inch or so. Regardless, that seemed to do the trick. Running the ducts was...interesting. With next to no room to work and not really enough ducting to run it the way I wanted I had to make some concessions on the routing. They are now attached but space behind the dash is now at a premium...I also zip tied some of the ducts to the outlets since they kept trying to pop off. I have it about 70% wired. I discovered a rather strange issue where, with the key off, the blower runs but when I turn the key on it shuts off. So i have to run that down. It's very confusing but I'll get it sorted.

I have all the radio components as well so I tried to wire that in. As luck would have it, wiring it up to the AAW radio wires...it doesnt work. However, I 'think' thats a fuse issue. I ran the 3 RCA cables for the amps, trigger wire, and backup camera wire under the carpet...just need to hook them all up. My little prototype underdash console isn't going to work at all. The radio is a little too wide for it. I tried to use some flat steel (14gauge) to mock up what will later be stainless which was just infuriating. It's not nearly rigid enough to be able to adequately hold the weight of the radio. Thus, i'm pretty close to abandoning trying to make that work.
What I 'think' i'm going to do is make a form of what I want the console to be shaped like out of some 1/8" steel rod. Then build it out of fiberglass. I still intend to have a stainless insert but it would give me a LOT more rigidity and flexibility in how I want it to look. I know it's going to carry its own set of challenges but, i'm much better with fiberglass than I am with wood. So there's that. Plus, nothing ventured nothing gained.

Lets see, I tried to lower the front by cutting the springs but now it sits too low. So i put my other set in and it sits WAY to high. Going to have to revisit that as well. I'm getting pretty close to hitting the "f-it" button and ordering the coilover kit from SoT that I should have done in the first place. Lessons learned i suppose.
Lastly, the wing windows kind of scratched the top of the doors (even with judicious amounts of tape). Its not terrible but it's enough to p*ss me off. I do have some touch up paint so it's not the end of the world. I have a couple spots my painter is going to touch up anyway so I might just see if he can work some magic.

Anyway, thats where things are at right now. I'm pretty frustrated at the beast right now but I'm so close to driving it I'm going to soldier on. Hopefully I can get some victories this week...
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post #140 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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Well its starting to cooperate...

I was also fighting an issue with the brake lights in that...they were always on when I'd hook the switch up. After looking closer, the SSBC adjustable brake pedal switch pedestal was about 1/16" or so too long. I ground it down, reinstalled, and now its working like a champ! The LED taillights from vintage LED's look amazing! Although I'm not sure how I like the sequential setting...thats easy to mess with though.

I then turned my attention to the heater hoses. Getting them on was a bit of a trick to do by myself. Even with pushing the tubes on the climate control back, they kept flexing back inside of the car. I put the handle of my ratchet in to act as a stop, put a little dish soap in the mounting end of the hoses, and off we went. I did elect to hose clamp them in the engine bay vs under the dash. I may switch that up later when I change the water pump to a reverse rotation (serpentine AC) but, for now, I'm going to leave it.

I was also able to get all the door glass in and rough aligned...once i remembered how to do it...it's been a few years. I'll do final alignment tonight and then put the fuzzies in. I'm pretty excited about this part cause its starting to make the car look more final!

The 6 1/2" Alpine R's are mounted to the kickplates, plates installed, and wires ran for that. I also moved the radio circuit to one of the accessory feeds. I'm still troubled by why the AAW radio wire doesnt charge when the key is on and will be looking more in to that in the future. Until then, the accessory feed will work fine.

Lastly, I installed the subwoofer and box. I had to notch a little out of the top of the divider but the rest of my design popped right in. The notch job isnt great and I will be making it prettier in the next couple days. Although you'll never see it since the back of the seat will be covering it but I digress. I have a 10" Alpine Type R in there that will be fed by a Kenwood 1k watt mono amp. I had hoped the amp would be small enough to mount to the backside of the subwoofer mounting board but alas, that's not the case. I had plans to do a hider board on the backside of the box in the trunk area anyway so I'll be mounting it there instead. Probably best for venting the amp anyway. What will bug me is that I am going to be mounting both the mono and 4 channel to that board...and they are two different makes of amp. Again, it's not the end of the world and easily changed later...but it'll be sort of annoying to my OCD.


Last edited by chaser012001; 04-03-2019 at 08:28 AM. Reason: typos
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post #141 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 08:52 AM
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is that listed as a free air sub? and/or do you have a box behind it ?

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post #142 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2nd 66 View Post
is that listed as a free air sub? and/or do you have a box behind it ?
I built a fully sealed box (inside and out) behind it just a little above the volume requirements for the sub.

Once i get the antennae mounted back there i'll snap a photo. I dont want to 'see' a radio antennae so I've got a little 14" one that I'm going to mount next to the box. Depending on how cruddy the reception is, I might add an amplifier to the antennae.
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post #143 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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I got the radio antenna in this morning and built the divider board for behind the sub so you dont have to see the business. I made a little "L" bracket and metal screwed it to the back of the seat support. The antenna has just enough room to clear and not be in danger of touching anything metal. For those who dont know, you want to insulate your antenna from metal or it will, essentially, "ground out" and be pretty much useless.

Terrible picture but, this is the backside of the sub to show the sealed box. I liquid nailed the seams both inside and outside to make sure it's sealed. If you look to the left of the picture, you can see the radio antenna.



The divider board is test fit in to place. The plan is to mount both amps, the rear end breather / catch can, and fuel tank breather to the board in a fashion that doesnt look weird. My thought is maybe amps on the driver and passenger side with the breathers in the center. I intend to wrap it in black vinyl to match my plans for the rest of the trunk. I also have some #4 brushed stainless that I am going to use to make some accents for the wire feeds to the amps. I feel it would look tacky running wires through the divider without a purposeful panel if that makes sense.

Btw, this effort is probably going to reach a full stop after the amps are mounted to the board. I'm shifting my focus to making the car run and drive since it's really close to ready. Thus, this weekend's focus is probably going to be getting the front / rear windows installed, fixing a minor coolant leak, fix the toeing, seatbelts (3points), say prayer, drive...
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post #144 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 05:37 PM
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looking good
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post #145 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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Big stuff today! My wife helped install the front and rear windshields which was awesome! I still need to glaze them but at least the hard part is over.
I then installed the amps, catch can, and tank breather. I was a little concerned about the differing sizes of the amps but, now that it's in, i'm pretty happy with it. I am going to use some of my leftover braided line to make the feed from the housing to the bottom of the can. That way fluid can work it's way back down to the housing.



The coolant leak was due to some poor machining on the thermostat housing. I have one of those pivoting CSR housing with the o-ring. There was a burr on the thermostat mating surface. Cleaned it up and it sealed great.

After that, i pulled the toe in a little bit as the wheels were flared out some. I intend to do another full alignment Monday.

Then came the FUN part. After going through all my pre-fire checks...I fired it up. I was pretty amped up and forgot to video it.
First thing, sucker is LOUD although that's a bit expected since it's a 3" exhaust that is currently terminated in front of the rear end. i 'hope' having the tubes run out the rear will help quiet it down some. If not, i'm going to put a 2.5" exhaust in.
Second, i think the trans is a little low on fluid. I know some leaked out on the driveshaft install. The reason I mention this is because getting it in gear is a bit of a chore. I also want to re-check the pinion angle. When i have it saftey checked (Missouri law), I'm going to have my mechanic also check pinion angle among other things.
Last...the current alignment SUCKS but it worked.
The first drive was TERRIFYING!! I LOVE IT. I drove it about a mile but it's unreal. I didnt get on it very much and its still scary quick! It'll take a little bit to get dialed in but man...it's FUN!
I was shaking for about an hour after the drive...

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post #146 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 08:37 PM
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I'm jealous. Can't wait to get my coupe drivable Nice work on your car.

289
4 speed
Rally-Pac
Bench Seat
Power Steering
All-around discs
Aftermarket A/C

And not nearly enough time

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post #147 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks although it's wearing me down...

I took the day off work to straighten out (literally) the wheel alignment. The car handled...terribly. So when i checked the alignment it was WAY off...like...1+ deg camber passenger side, -3 drivers side...I also am about done putting the front seat belts in it. It's back to fighting me again so that's fun...
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post #148 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
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Slowly chipping away. I called my mechanic to get the list of requirements to pass a Missouri safety inspection. At the time, my horn and windshield wipers were the only things that sounded like they would flag it. As luck would have it, both were easy fixes. The windshield wipers werent working because i missed the ground wire on the motor. Boom...done...we have windshield wipers.
The ididit column was equally as easy once I realized I was overthinking it. I put the horn button wire in, hooked to button, grounded button...boom horn! With that, I think I can satisfy all their requirements so I 'think' I'm going to schedule an appointment for Friday. I want to drive it a little more to make sure the kinks are worked out.

Then I turned to the exhaust system. I have 3" pipes with X feeding in to Magnaflow mufflers. I REALLY want to keep the 3" to the mufflers but this thing is LOUD. So first order of business, I made up some tailpipes (ghetto...will do them right over the next few days) which quieted it down some but it's still pretty obnoxious. So i'm going to order a set of Dynomax Super Turbos and cross my fingers.

Given that all the important stuff is sorted, I decided to mess around with the sound system. The first determination is that the angle on my little "console" under the dash is too steep. The radio would not seat in no matter what I did. So i unscrewed the panel, tilted it up, and have found a good angle to make it work. Thus, I'm going to re-make the console with the appropriate angle and enjoy some tunes.
I got the amps, speakers, and basic wiring hooked up. Sounds AWESOME! The subwoofer is a little boomy but I can pull some of that out with the amp. The wires are very haphazard and I plan to focus on getting them 'prettied' up once i'm happy with the configuration.

All in all, a good weekend knocking down the punch list.

Goals for this week:
* drive it
* swap out the throttle linkage to the progressive linkage to make the car a little more manageable
* drive it some more
* rebuild console
* install microphone for radio
* (maybe) work out the wiring in the trunk
* (maybe) hookup the backup camera
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post #149 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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I was running down some ignition issues last night. It sounded like the whole system was lean misfiring on occasion. Messing with the ignition timing in the sniper, i was able to get it to 'behave' and decided to take it out for a drive. I didnt make it about a half mile and the car shut down and would not start. Everything was checking out fine. Checking in to it further when I got it back to the house, I noticed that when the fuel pump would prime and shut off, fuel pressure wasn't holding...it'd quickly seep back off. I've seen this before................when it was out of gas. So for the next few days I'll be filling up 5 gals on my way home from work :-D

All blessings in disguise though as I did notice a might bigger issue. There was a puddle of brake fluid under the transmission in the general area of the Tilton. The lines on it feel very loose so i hope that's the case. However, small mistakes can often lead to big problems. My mistake here is that, i'm pretty sure i didnt read the instructions close enough and may have not installed the clutch pedal stop appropriately. In doing so i was probably overthrowing the bearing which they do not like. I'm going to call Modern Driveline today to discuss with them but, i may have torched the throwout bearing. Inspecting what I can, it looks like fluid is weeping out of the lines though. The Tilton is dry, fluid is coming down the bleeder line, and everything else looks ok. Either way the trans has to come out so I started on that this morning.

On the bright side a manual trans isn't too terribly hard to pull out...more annoying than anything.
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post #150 of 154 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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Yesterday was a big research day.

Starting with the clutch issue. The internet was full of doom and gloom with the possibility of overthrowing the bearing. However, Paul from MDL called and kind of set me at ease on that. He gave me a punch list of stuff to check which i started looking at before work this morning. I've verified to the best of my ability:
* 1/8" clearance between the tilton surface and the clutch plate
* clutch plate finger test (for lack of a better term) which proves out the seal in the bearing (what gets messed up when it's overthrown)
* bleeder is fully closed
* bleeder adapter is closed
With that out of the way I started looking into the lines to see where it's leaking on them. The mainline from the master cylinder looks ok. It does not appear to be leaking. The bleeder line on the other hand has a leak...somewhere. I dont think it's at the bearing and more likely one of the crimps. Being on my own doing this, I cant find out exactly where. However, when I wipe the line down dry, pump the clutch, and then check; I have fluid on the line appearing like, halfway up. I'm going to see if my wife can help this afternoon but my suspicion is that the lower crimp has given out.

Then it was on to researching what I can do for the fuel tank vent. Right now it's in the trunk (bad). After lots of searching, I've decided to use the leftover braided fuel line with -6 fittings and a TPV6 air lock to exit the vent to atmosphere.
I'm going to go 90 degrees out of the vent exit
route up and over the filler tube next to the tail light panel
terminate just past the filler house mount on the outside of the bracket with another 90
connect TPV6
straight fitting into more braid down into the fuel tank area to a bulkhead on the floor
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