67 Fastback GT 390 Full Restoration - Build Thread - Page 3 - Vintage Mustang Forums
 64Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #31 of 66 (permalink) Old 08-18-2017, 09:33 AM
Super Moderator
Supporting Member
 
Israel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 8,795
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7T02S View Post
The next step was to build a roll-around cart. I decided to use a combination of 4x4 and 4x6 and some huge casters. The front casters were salvaged from some military equipment. I borrowed them from a co-worker.


Being able to roll the shell around is such a nice luxury!


The next step in the plan was to get it ready to get dipped. I decided to have the car stripped and electrolysis dipped. Unfortunately, they told me I they couldn't dip the car with any black undercoating since they can't have those chemicals in their tanks. Not what I wanted to hear! Nearly the entire interior and underside were coated in undercoating by a previous owner. I tried many methods but finally had to resort to paint stripper on the interior and physical scraping on the underside.

I did most of the interior before the rotisserie but first I'll show some pictures of the rotisserie that my uncle and his friend built. What a nice piece of equipment!

First though, I needed to make some adapters to attach the rear of the car. I decided to grab into the rear leaf spring holes. Building the adapters involved drilling some holes, getting hardware, welding on some nuts, and welding the assemblies together. My first welding project in years! I was happy with how they turned out.


Attaching the rear:


Front goes on the bumper mount holes:


Wha La!

What would they have charged for dipping?

Ex-wife,....."You drove how far for that thing?"
Daughter,..."Theres no inside and it stinks."
Friend,......."Dude, thats a rusted pile."
Son,.........."This old car is cool."

USMC Security Forces, Kamiseya Japan, 0311

Build Thread: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...sted-pile.html
Israel is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #32 of 66 (permalink) Old 08-18-2017, 02:15 PM
Member
 
stangnet33's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7T02S View Post
With the doors and fenders included, I think it came out around $5-6k! Wasn't cheap! They blame the EPA for raising their costs. With nearly a six month waiting list, I think demand plays a larger part: They can charge whatever they want.
not cheap for sure
stangnet33 is offline  
post #33 of 66 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
7T02S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 48
Long Overdue Update

Hey guys,


Time sure does fly and a lot has happened since I last posted. I have a lot of photos over the last year that I'll try to "paraphrase" to get you up to speed.


Long story short, I've had to replace a LOT of metal - so that's what you're about to see...

Here it is after I had removed the entire floor sitting on my chassis jig:
20160917_145625 by 7T02S, on Flickr

At this point I had determined the rocker panels, rear torque boxes, rear frame rails, rear floor section above shocks, and trunk divider were salvageable.
20160916_204911 by 7T02S, on Flickr


20160918_171530 by 7T02S, on Flickr


Here's the one-piece USA floor board and the Taiwanese firewall. You can also see the new front torque boxes in the back ground:
20160918_171511 by 7T02S, on Flickr
120mm likes this.
7T02S is offline  
 
post #34 of 66 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
7T02S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 48
Long Overdue Update 2

Here's the rear cut out. Bye bye to the tail light panel, rear cross brace, and floor panels:
20170416_222741 by 7T02S, on Flickr


Here I've removed the cowl and the lower cowl is definitely a goner:
20171021_125733 by 7T02S, on Flickr


Upper cowl is in good shape and a keeper:
20171021_125757 by 7T02S, on Flickr
Grabber70Mach and 120mm like this.
7T02S is offline  
post #35 of 66 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
7T02S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 48
Long Overdue Update 3

Then I spent a bunch of months fabricating some replacement pieces for the front lower quarter panels and wheel wells.


A few tools of the trade:
20161121_145807 by 7T02S, on Flickr


Pic before being fully welded:

20161123_185659 by 7T02S, on Flickr


20161121_145708 by 7T02S, on Flickr


Don't seem to have a picture handy for after I welded it but here's the patch locations for the driver's side wheel well that was too pock marked from rust:
20161029_092019 by 7T02S, on Flickr


Passenger side front wheel well. I fabbed the piece shown welded in on the inner well but still had work to do on the outer.

20161016_220506 by 7T02S, on Flickr


New vent piece tacked in:
20161122_174844 by 7T02S, on Flickr
Grabber70Mach and 120mm like this.
7T02S is offline  
post #36 of 66 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 01:37 PM
Senior Member
 
sixtysevenGTconv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: N.H.
Posts: 5,350
Awesome. Attention to details so important both now and thru assembly
7T02S likes this.

If you borrow a tool more than twice, you need to own it You get what you pay for!
George email: <[email protected]>
sixtysevenGTconv is offline  
post #37 of 66 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
7T02S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 48
Long Overdue Update 4

Now after months of fabricating and welding little pieces, I came to the realization there was too much rust damage to fix, since many of the deteriorated pieces were in the door frames, inside the quarter panels in hard to reach spots, the roof support cross beams front and rear, and the inner quarter structure.


I don't seem to have many photos of the pock marked metal but here's a good example from inside the front torque box.
20171124_155313 by 7T02S, on Flickr


I finally decided to order more metal; both door frames and inner quarter structure, full quarter panels, roof beams, roof, rear window divider (the panel between the rear window and deck lid.


Here's the driver's side door frame:

20171126_175106 by 7T02S, on Flickr
Grabber70Mach, 120mm and image98 like this.
7T02S is offline  
post #38 of 66 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
7T02S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 48
Long Overdue Update 5

Now for the all important car step, and hard to actually decide to cut, of removing the left side of the car! Not an easy decision to make, especially since I was also cutting out all of the work I showed in the previous post...

20171124_154636 by 7T02S, on Flickr


A cleaner slate.

20171124_160248 by 7T02S, on Flickr


On with the new:
20171126_184741 by 7T02S, on Flickr
Grabber70Mach and 120mm like this.
7T02S is offline  
post #39 of 66 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
7T02S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 48
Long Overdue Update 6

Now off with the rear window divider to see what's underneath:
20171216_125336 by 7T02S, on Flickr


Lot's of damage in the inner structure from a leaking rear window.
20171217_103625 by 7T02S, on Flickr


A bunch of fabricated replacement pieces. Looks like a 3 dimensional jig saw puzzle!
20171223_114835 by 7T02S, on Flickr


One welded in:
20171223_170036 by 7T02S, on Flickr
Grabber70Mach and 120mm like this.
7T02S is offline  
post #40 of 66 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
7T02S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 48
Long Overdue Update 7

I was originally intending to one side of the car at a time so made these inner braces to indicate where I needed to lean the new side of the car up to while keeping the passenger side supported. I later found out there were enough differences, that I just needed to start fresh and do both sides at the same time...


Here is the door frame fitted and prepped with plug welding holes:
20180128_130432 by 7T02S, on Flickr


I stitch welded the front rocker while I was at it.
20180128_132831 by 7T02S, on Flickr


Here's the interfaces all prepped with epoxy primer bushed on:
20180128_172448 by 7T02S, on Flickr


Off with the roof and a good view of the cross braces:
20180203_145706 by 7T02S, on Flickr


Here's the passenger side trying to convince me to not cut it off...
20180204_114844 by 7T02S, on Flickr


Its pleads didn't work:

20180204_115913 by 7T02S, on Flickr
7T02S is offline  
post #41 of 66 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
7T02S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 48
Long Overdue Update 8

Now it's starting to look like a car again and it nice not having to worry about rust damages coming back to haunt me years later:
20180204_160216 by 7T02S, on Flickr


20180204_160509 by 7T02S, on Flickr


20180210_154728 by 7T02S, on Flickr


The old firewall is staying there as a jig for the rear section. Once the rear section is tacked together, I'll be removing the firewall, torque box, and front frame rails:
20180211_101131 by 7T02S, on Flickr


Hard to see but a new, one piece lower cowl is in place with the original upper cowl. Seems to fit decently.
20180211_104520 by 7T02S, on Flickr
7T02S is offline  
post #42 of 66 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
7T02S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 48
Long Overdue Update 9

New trunk floor and a larger gas tank.
20180311_121310 by 7T02S, on Flickr


Tail light panel:
20190217_130743 by 7T02S, on Flickr
Grabber70Mach and 120mm like this.
7T02S is offline  
post #43 of 66 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
7T02S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 48
Long Overdue Update 10

I've decided the secret to success to aligning all these new parts together is assembling as much of the car as possible before tack welding. Lots of clamps, vise grips, and clecos are mandatory.


I started by "stitching" (with clecos) the rear quarter panels to the rocker panels because that seemed like the most logical place to start aligning everything.
20180512_101244 by 7T02S, on Flickr


20180512_101240 by 7T02S, on Flickr



More clecos holding the truck divider to the quarter structure:
20181226_125439 by 7T02S, on Flickr



The other key to success it door alignment. They must have good gaps and open, close and latch properly.
20180224_153004 by 7T02S, on Flickr

At this point the doors are hung on hinges. Door latches installed. New window regulators and door windows installed. Got to make sure the windows are going to seal. The next two pictures are jumping forward in time...
20180225_125302 by 7T02S, on Flickr


Here's where I run into my first problem but validating that it's important to assemble everything before doing any welding - the rear of both windows doesn't touch the seal. On both windows.
20190203_114937 by 7T02S, on Flickr


Basically the door pillars (B-pillars) are too far back to match up with the front of the quarter thus making the drip rail molding not sit close enough to the window. I tried my best to pull the door frame forward but things just didn't want to cooperate - mainly because to pull that section forward, the A-piller and kick panels needed to move forward but they didn't really allow for it. At this point, tried solving the puzzle several different ways. The other issue was the A-pillar wasn't at the same angle of the wing window frame - tight at the top and wide at the bottom.


My hunch was both door frame assemblies weren't really welded together at the right overall dimensions.
120mm likes this.
7T02S is offline  
post #44 of 66 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
7T02S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 48
Long Overdue Update 11 - Summer Break 2018

At this point (Summer 2018), I needed step away from the mustang project since I was left with too many alignment problems to solve and do some other projects that actually had an end in sight. It's all about the small wins.


This is my 68 Chevy C10 (Sorry I'm a Chevy guy too!). I did the entire restoration back in high school in the late 1990's. I worked at a body shop so did all the paint and body myself.
20180808_065640B by 7T02S, on Flickr



The old fuel tank was leaking so I decided to install a 49 chevy car tank with an in-tank EFI fuel pump to feed my 98 Corvette LS1.
20180506_104441 by 7T02S, on Flickr


20180715_133533 by 7T02S, on Flickr


20180721_174857 by 7T02S, on Flickr


20180805_144010 by 7T02S, on Flickr


20180805_144030 by 7T02S, on Flickr


Then decided to install a new dual exhaust, which also had me doing some fab and welding:
20180930_124735 by 7T02S, on Flickr


Once I got it back up and running again, I made it to my work's annual car show and won the best paint award! Not bad for 21 year old paint!
7T02S is offline  
post #45 of 66 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
7T02S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 48
Long Overdue Update 12

Ok, now I've successfully up to the current month on Mustang photos. I've gotten back on the horse, so to speak, and made some big break throughs on all the alignment issues I was facing.


I decided I need to cut the spot welds at the top of the A-pillars-to-roof-side-support on both door frames to allow me to pull the B-pillars forward and re-angle the A-piller to match the angle of the wing windows. This took a lot of decision making to make sure I actually wanted to cut into each of the $1200 door frame assemblies (each)...
20190203_094142 by 7T02S, on Flickr


15 spots welds later:
20190203_101935 by 7T02S, on Flickr


Not shown is cutting the welds on the passenger side too.



Now to fashion up a frame machine to pull the B-pillars forward and angle up the A-pillars.

20190223_103324 by 7T02S, on Flickr


20190223_103332 by 7T02S, on Flickr


Now things are really starting to align and the solution path seems clear although lots of measuring still needs to be done. Once I cut those joints, I realized the whole back of the car needed to re-aligned so most of the clamps came back off to reposition all the parts.
Grabber70Mach likes this.
7T02S is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome