CP66's 66 CP Solo II Notchback or "Racing, the Disease" - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #16 of 109 (permalink) Old 10-11-2017, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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O.k. Problem time. Started dummying up the Ride Tech components and the aluminum bearing retainer shown below is "supposed" to fit up into the space where the rubber strut rod bushing formerly lived. The problem comes into play when the replacement strut rod brackets that Scott Drake says "These OEM-style, direct-fit replacements are constructed from high-quality sheet metal to factory specs to insure proper positioning". Unfortunately the portion of the bracket that the strut rod slides thru is quite a bit beefier than the original! The bearing retainer is close to 2 3/4 inches o.d. and there is only 2 1/2 inches of clearance so out comes the die grinder to clearance the bracket for installation!
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post #17 of 109 (permalink) Old 10-18-2017, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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Well about 30 minute with the harbor freight die grinder that replaced the 30 year old black and decker grinder and the strut brackets are "clearanced" enough to get the aluminum retainer into place. The shiny areas show the required clearancing.








Now the retainers will slide in between the sides of the bracket but still need to go up another 3/16 of an inch. I haven't decided if I'll "clearance" the bracket at the top or if I'll mill the retainers to fit into the space. I hate to compromise the strength of the brackets any further but given they were more than twice the thickness of the original it should be o.k. either way I go with it.


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Last edited by CP66; 10-18-2017 at 07:59 PM.
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post #18 of 109 (permalink) Old 10-18-2017, 10:15 PM
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Seems like it would have been better to cut flats on the retainers. Hard to tell by the pics, but did you weeken those brackets by thinning them down in those areas?
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post #19 of 109 (permalink) Old 10-19-2017, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Seems like it would have been better to cut flats on the retainers. Hard to tell by the pics, but did you weeken those brackets by thinning them down in those areas?

I would have preferred to cut flats on the retainers but the mate to the one shown that goes on the backside has threaded holes and cutting flats would have left little structure or strength around the bolt holes. Given that the portion I clearanced is at least 3 times thicker than the original I believe it will be alright although as an added strengthener I am going to fully weld the inner bracket to the outer bracket vs the spot welds currently in place.


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post #20 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-06-2018, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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Give myself a little bump here to make the thread easier to find; I ended up machining flats on the retainers as patrickstapler suggested but unfortunately it won't help. My concern in doing that is that there wouldn't be enough "meat" left in for the fasteners to thread into played out somewhat. Where it made a difference is on the bottom side of the retainer where the hole needs to be drilled thru the strut bracket there isn't enough "meat" in the strut bracket for the hole. I'll add a picture in a day or two that better explains it but the short version is that the Ride Tech Strong Arm suspension will not work with aftermarket strut brackets. I'm hoping I can find a serviceable set of original brackets at the all Ford swap meet in Columbus April 4 thru 6.

In the meantime the addition of hydro boost brakes to the 63 Galaxie is moving along quite well!
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post #21 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-06-2018, 10:27 PM
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Those brackets look quite thicker than OE to me. Leave it to SD to overbuild a part in a problematic way, lol.

We need more pics of your roll cage, I like the angle of the back legs coming through the package tray.
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post #22 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-06-2018, 10:57 PM
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Strut brackets installed! I've also replaced and upgraded the core support, I installed one for a '67 as it is laid out for a larger radiator. It's essentially a direct swap although you will have to install the 67 front apron on the right side because the battery box layout is different and will leave a largish gap between the core support and fender apron if you don't. The shop is currently a mess due to some remodeling going on, it really isn't THAT crowded working in there!


I see the tubes from the cage come through to the front end , but also a curious lack of torque boxes


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post #23 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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Those brackets look quite thicker than OE to me. Leave it to SD to overbuild a part in a problematic way, lol.

We need more pics of your roll cage, I like the angle of the back legs coming through the package tray.
I'll work on getting some interior shots of the car posted for you.

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I see the tubes from the cage come through to the front end , but also a curious lack of torque boxes
Torque boxes are sitting on the shelf still boxed up. After doing some initial trial fitting and reading up on their installation they appear to be a HUGE pita to install. In my research it appears that I have to drill out all of the spot welds in the TB's themselves as they were (are) poorly assembled at the manufacturer and just wont fit as is. I'm not real sure that the extra layer of sheetmetal they add directly under the floor provide the return on investment of installation time and trouble but am considering bending up some sheetmetal and boxing in the area where the TB's go and then selling the TB's.
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post #24 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 10:33 AM
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I'll work on getting some interior shots of the car posted for you.



Torque boxes are sitting on the shelf still boxed up. After doing some initial trial fitting and reading up on their installation they appear to be a HUGE pita to install. In my research it appears that I have to drill out all of the spot welds in the TB's themselves as they were (are) poorly assembled at the manufacturer and just wont fit as is. I'm not real sure that the extra layer of sheetmetal they add directly under the floor provide the return on investment of installation time and trouble but am considering bending up some sheetmetal and boxing in the area where the TB's go and then selling the TB's.
I put them in my 66 and had to take them apart and modify them to fit right. My cowl is wasted and needs to be replaced so I decided I use the torque boxes to help hold the front of the car together.They made a huge difference in front end rigidity,well worth the effort. Cost less than a new cowl and less labor and working pretty well so far


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post #25 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-16-2018, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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Adding a few pics of the cage as requested. More to follow:

The PVC is for some dummy pics to get a quote from my cage guy to add a couple of more tubes.



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post #26 of 109 (permalink) Old 05-24-2018, 05:52 AM Thread Starter
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Finally found a solution to my problem with the Ride Tech bushings not working with the Scott Drake replacement parts. On a recent trip to Oklahoma I found a parts "car" that I was able to cut this from. Don't worry, there was very little left of the "car" this came from so it didn't die in vain at least. Now I'll fab up a jig to correctly locate them on my car then proceed to remove the ones I welded in and replace them with these OEM parts. I've already fit checked the Ride Tech stuff to these and it all fits perfectly. I know, SHOCKER right?


Funny thing in searching my archive for some contact information a few minutes ago I found an email telling a buddy I had the car ready for the '11 SCCA Nationals in Lincoln.

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post #27 of 109 (permalink) Old 05-24-2018, 08:24 AM
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Iím rolling around in my head the need for torque boxes when you have a full roll cage.
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My Mustang in its old life.
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post #28 of 109 (permalink) Old 05-28-2018, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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Agreed. I bought them many moons ago prior to the current iteration of this project. They are low on the priority list and may or may not end up in use. Triangulation is a good thing so they may go on eventually. I finished separating the OE strut brackets from the clip pictured above and now that I compare them side by side with the Scott Drake equipment it seems a shame to to install the lighter duty OE in place of the SD parts. Unfortunately the SD stuff simply won't fit with the Ride Tech parts. And the fun never ends.

By the way, don't waste your time with Harbor Freight spot weld cutters unless you're using them on aluminum foil. Pretty much junk.
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post #29 of 109 (permalink) Old 06-05-2018, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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O.k. I made a jig for each side to ensure the proper placement of the used OE strut brackets after I remove the Scott Drake replacement parts. While removing the OE brackets from the donor clip I wondered if it might be best to just remove the center of the bracket where the strut rod goes thru and replace the SD part with the OE part. The reason being that the SD parts are overall stronger than the OE stuff.

I carefully removed the SD inner bracket but before committing to just swapping this part out I placed my jigs on the car to verify placement of the SD parts and found much to my displeasure that I had installed the SD parts exactly one inch outboard of the proper location. The distressing part is that I used measurements found on either this site or another Mustang site and were professed to be accurate.

At this point I hadn't done any disassembly of the OE brackets so removed the SD brackets as originally planned to install the OE brackets. So where it stands right now is the SD brackets have been removed, the OE brackets have been removed, all welding remains have been cleaned from the frame and using my jigs I have trial fit the OE parts to the frame and then dummied up the Ride Tech parts and amazingly they fit perfectly.

The next step is to drill the necessary holes to support the bearing retainers, sandblast and paint the OE parts and get them welded in then move on with getting everything bolted in to assure fit before painting the forward chassis its final color. Pictures have been taken and will be uploaded in a day or two.
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post #30 of 109 (permalink) Old 06-08-2018, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
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As promised a few more photos of the installation prep:

I fabricated a jig to properly locate the strut bracket, this is from inside the frame looking at the left front corner with the jig clamped temporarily in place. When I'm ready to do the install I'll tack them in place with the welder so there are no clamps in the way.
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