1967 T/A Group II Clone - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #16 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-12-2018, 05:31 PM
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The issue with changing stock 289 rods to 3/8" is the material around the bolt gets a bit thin. Not saying it can't be done...buuuuut you could also leave the rods alone and change to ARP 5/16". Now if you have B2 rods or HiPo rods...you're good already. However, I'm sure you already know all of this.
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Patrick
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post #17 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-12-2018, 06:44 PM
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Looking good man. I dig the proposed paint scheme. I like the idea of the bottom portion looking dipped into the blue paint. Pretty cool.
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post #18 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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The issue with changing stock 289 rods to 3/8" is the material around the bolt gets a bit thin. Not saying it can't be done...buuuuut you could also leave the rods alone and change to ARP 5/16". Now if you have B2 rods or HiPo rods...you're good already. However, I'm sure you already know all of this.
My street car has 3/8 rod bolts, but I will discuss with the machine shop and see if I can get away with that with these rods, or if 5/16 arp will be sufficient. Seems like there are a lot of people out there spinning crazy rpms with 5/16 ARP rod bolts.
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post #19 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 11:12 AM
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That's the best thing, talk to your shop. We have better parts now so with a good set of 5/16" bolts may be all you need and may be the strongest path. Now, I just throwing out there, ask about getting the engine internally balanced. SilverbluePB had his engine let go. The crank broke between the front main and 1&5 main journal. That seems to be a common failure point. I've seen cranks broken like this on other forums. I believe Mark said he feels it's more of an issue on road race where the engine rpm is up and down, not so much an issue in a street or drag car. Again I'm not mentioning this from any of my experience or knowledge just passing it along.

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post #20 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 12:47 PM
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^Not saying Mark’s mishap isn’t or could be a common problem. However, I believe Mark’s engine had several race seasons on it prior to said breakage.

Regards,
Patrick
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post #21 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 02:19 PM
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Rules do require a fuel cell in my class and being that they are "endurance" rallies, I opted for a 20 gallon aluminum cell with a sump and foam filling. Rules do not require an SFI cell, so this will be sufficient.
What brand is the 'cell?

John

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post #22 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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That's the best thing, talk to your shop. We have better parts now so with a good set of 5/16" bolts may be all you need and may be the strongest path. Now, I just throwing out there, ask about getting the engine internally balanced. SilverbluePB had his engine let go. The crank broke between the front main and 1&5 main journal. That seems to be a common failure point. I've seen cranks broken like this on other forums. I believe Mark said he feels it's more of an issue on road race where the engine rpm is up and down, not so much an issue in a street or drag car. Again I'm not mentioning this from any of my experience or knowledge just passing it along.
I've considered an internal balance. I'll ask what it would cost for a 289. I won't be spinning past 7k, so not sure if it would be worth the effort? @Silverbluepb how fast did you spin yours to? I think I remembering watching your video when it let go.
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post #23 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 07:55 PM
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I've considered an internal balance. I'll ask what it would cost for a 289. I won't be spinning past 7k, so not sure if it would be worth the effort? @Silverbluepb how fast did you spin yours to? I think I remembering watching your video when it let go.


I had a 7,500 chip in it. It broke just above 7k. I had been running it extra hard that day having fun!

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1966 Mustang 2+2

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post #24 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 07:56 PM
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I will say, the short block held together for 6 yrs of track days. I got my money out that bottom end.

-Mark-

1966 Mustang 2+2

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post #25 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 08:47 PM
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Stock 289 crank and rods with 5/16" or 3/8" rod bolts at those RPM?

Regards,
Patrick
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post #26 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 08:51 PM
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Stock crank, stock rods that were polished by me and 3/8” ARP bolts.
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-Mark-

1966 Mustang 2+2

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post #27 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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Stock crank, stock rods that were polished by me and 3/8” ARP bolts.
That is my plan as well. What else was done to the motor? What cam were you running?
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post #28 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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What brand is the 'cell?
Sorry, I missed this earlier. It's been about 2 years since I purchased it, so I'm not sure on the brand. It's a universal aluminum cell. I think a lot of different places make them.
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post #29 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-15-2018, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the front suspension buttoned up. Rules require stock suspension but does allow some modifications. I bought replacement Moog lower arms, new Mood upper ball joints and shafts, and new Moog tie rods. I boxed in both the upper and lower control arms for added strength so they will (hopefully) survive the Mexican highways at 120+mph. I also added the "dogbone" shock tower reinforcements. I converted from power steering to manual by modifying the steering power valve and removing all of the hydraulics. Springs are factory rate with a full coil removed. I lowered the upper control arms 1" and moved the spring perch outward 3/4" to increase spring rate a little. The sway bar is 1.125" diameter. I added brake cooling backing plates on both sides. I haven't added the ducting yet, but I am planning on connecting them to custom cutouts in the valance to mimic the ones on the GT350s. Also note the 3/8 fuel line.



Rally rules do permit brake upgrades, however everything has to fit behind a 15x7 wheel. I opted to stay factory Ford for both both budgetary and nostalgia reasons. This car originally had 4 wheel drum brakes, but I was able to source some factory discs from a '66 off a VMF member. I rebuilt the calipers with new pistons, seals, and boots and added stainless lines.

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post #30 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-16-2018, 09:54 AM
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Nice Work.
What did you use to reinforce the upper control arms? I have laser cut pieces to do the lowers but couldn't find anything for the uppers.
Thanks
Jeff

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