1967 T/A Group II Clone - Page 5 - Vintage Mustang Forums
 106Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #61 of 135 (permalink) Old 09-29-2018, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
gikort's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,200
Quote:
Originally Posted by silverblueBP View Post
No windage tray in my engine. If you havenít check header to bell housing clearance, do it before you install the motor. Itíll probably need a lot of grinding on the BH.


Mark

I was actually really worried about this too since the scattershield is made for either 164 or 157 tooth flywheels and is much larger than the aluminum bellhousing I had. Luckily after getting it all mocked up, I only had to dent 1 header tube on each bank to get them to clear without clearancing the bell.






silverblueBP and 120mm like this.
gikort is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #62 of 135 (permalink) Old 09-29-2018, 09:30 PM
Senior Member
 
silverblueBP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Ames, Iowa
Posts: 7,701
Garage
Why do you have the heater tubes on the water pump open and why a vacuum advance distributor?


Mark
patrickstapler likes this.

-Mark-

1966 Mustang 2+2

silverblueBP is offline  
post #63 of 135 (permalink) Old 09-29-2018, 09:35 PM
Moderator
Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 8,055
Garage
I was wondering the same thing. Pretty headers though.
silverblueBP likes this.

Regards,
Patrick
patrickstapler is offline  
 
post #64 of 135 (permalink) Old 09-29-2018, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
gikort's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,200
Quote:
Originally Posted by silverblueBP View Post
Why do you have the heater tubes on the water pump open and why a vacuum advance distributor?


Mark
I went with the vacuum advance because it will be used in speed stage rallies with "transit" sections where it will be driven on the street for hundreds of miles at a time. The heater tubes are there because they are cast into the pump and I didn't realize it until I already had it on. Doh! I'll run a bypass on the one, and maybe try and plug the heater side. Any suggestions? I have a bypass hose on both on my other car.
gikort is offline  
post #65 of 135 (permalink) Old 09-29-2018, 11:53 PM
Senior Member
 
2nd 66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: New York
Posts: 8,959
Garage
2nd 66 is offline  
post #66 of 135 (permalink) Old 09-30-2018, 07:24 AM
Senior Member
 
silverblueBP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Ames, Iowa
Posts: 7,701
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2nd 66 View Post


Yep, those work.


Mark
2nd 66 likes this.

-Mark-

1966 Mustang 2+2

silverblueBP is offline  
post #67 of 135 (permalink) Old 09-30-2018, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
gikort's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,200
Thanks guys, I just ordered one.
gikort is offline  
post #68 of 135 (permalink) Old 09-30-2018, 01:08 PM
Senior Member
 
silverblueBP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Ames, Iowa
Posts: 7,701
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by gikort View Post
Thanks guys, I just ordered one.


One?


Mark
patrickstapler likes this.

-Mark-

1966 Mustang 2+2

silverblueBP is offline  
post #69 of 135 (permalink) Old 09-30-2018, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
gikort's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,200
Quote:
Originally Posted by silverblueBP View Post
One?


Mark
Yeah, going to keep the bypass on the other.
silverblueBP likes this.
gikort is offline  
post #70 of 135 (permalink) Old 09-30-2018, 10:48 PM
Senior Member
 
mikeyhunts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: HOUSTON
Posts: 657
Really cool project
Subscribed



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mikeyhunts is offline  
post #71 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
gikort's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,200
Here are some photos of the engine install:



Here is a photo of the poorman "semi-solid" motor mounts I made. I made them for my other car as well. They do increase vibrations slightly, but hardly noticeable:


Lawnjockey, 120mm and image98 like this.
gikort is offline  
post #72 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 04:30 PM
Senior Member
 
mikeyhunts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: HOUSTON
Posts: 657
Cool....
How many HP do you expect out of that 289?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mikeyhunts is offline  
post #73 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 11:15 AM
Junior Member
 
Parker Buhrman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Ohio
Posts: 21
Garage
What did you do to "modify" the control valve when coverting to manual steering? I'm interested in doing this as well and was only aware of the ~$150 "conversions" that replace the control valve altogether.

1967 C-Code Notchback Coupe - Trans-Am Inspired Street Car, No Experience 1st Timer Budget Build
Parker Buhrman is offline  
post #74 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
gikort's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,200
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker Buhrman View Post
What did you do to "modify" the control valve when coverting to manual steering? I'm interested in doing this as well and was only aware of the ~$150 "conversions" that replace the control valve altogether.

I'll have to get you a photo, but I just use the "stud" half of the control valve and got rid of the rest. Removed all the springs and everything, and add a steel spacer to "shim" the stud so it will not move, but still allows it to rotate. Then screw the cap back on tight and weld it or pin it so it won't come off. I made one for my other car I converted to an integral power steering box. It's been great for probably 7 years now.

@mikeyhunts Your guess is as good as mine. I'd love to get around 400 out of it, but I don't know how close to that I'll be or if I'll ever get it on a dyno.
Parker Buhrman likes this.
gikort is offline  
post #75 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
gikort's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,200
Here are a few more pictures of progress. This was more of a PITA than I planned, but I got them done.

Here they are installed on the engine:



Before paint, I trimmed the radiator support for a 24" radiator. To mount it, I made some U brackets that I riveted to the frame rail:

added some foam strips to seal the opening, then made another bracket for the top. Overall it turned out pretty clean.
gikort is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome