1967 T/A Group II Clone - Page 8 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #106 of 135 (permalink) Old 12-27-2018, 11:11 AM
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Is that radio delete panel aluminum and did you have to weld it together?

John

The Fauxstang. Dynacorn 67 fastback. Dart SHP 363, Close ratio Magnum 6 speed, 3.70 Eaton Truetrac in a fabricated full floater 9", SorT coil over suspension. Still in pieces.
'14 SHO with most all the bells and whistles. Stock for now.
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post #107 of 135 (permalink) Old 12-27-2018, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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Is that radio delete panel aluminum and did you have to weld it together?

Yeah, it is aluminum. I just riveted it together. I put a brushed finish on it then sprayed it with some clear acrylic so it doesn't fingerprint.
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post #108 of 135 (permalink) Old 12-27-2018, 01:42 PM
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Subscribing. Just getting back to working on my '67 T/A streetable clone and like what you've done. I wish I had painted my engine bay gray but had already sprayed it black when I found the vintage pics of TA cars in gray...I'll redo that when the car gets painted in a year or two.
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'67 Coupe Candy Apple red/red interior; original 289 stroked to 333ci; AFR 165cc heads; built AOD; 9" diff; T/A paint scheme planned.
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post #109 of 135 (permalink) Old 12-28-2018, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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I was also able to get the fire suppression system mounted. It's an FIA 4.25L AFFF system. I'm running 2 nozzles in the passenger compartment (under the dash) and 3 in the engine bay. I am still going to add 2 handheld extinguishers (one for driver and one for navigator) since that is what is required in the rally. What are you guys using for quick detach mounts and where are you mounting them so that they are accessible while belted in but also not in the way?



Excuse the wiring mess. I still need to finish the underhood wiring and cut the plug wires to length.



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post #110 of 135 (permalink) Old 12-30-2018, 10:33 AM
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Does it make sense to run fire suppression nozzles to the fuel cell or is that not necessary? Nice build BTW. In how many races a year do you expect to compete?

1966 GT 2+2 - 347, Edelbrock carb, Tremec TKO 600 5 speed, 9 rear and a bunch of other cool stuff.

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post #111 of 135 (permalink) Old 12-30-2018, 10:54 AM
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Does it make sense to run fire suppression nozzles to the fuel cell or is that not necessary? Nice build BTW. In how many races a year do you expect to compete?


Should have one covering the fuel cell too.


Mark

-Mark-

1966 Mustang 2+2

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post #112 of 135 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Here are a few more updates. I got the new rotors pressed onto the hub and the Porterfield R4-1 pads installed.





Then got the rest of the brake system all bled.


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post #113 of 135 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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Does it make sense to run fire suppression nozzles to the fuel cell or is that not necessary? Nice build BTW. In how many races a year do you expect to compete?
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Should have one covering the fuel cell too.


Mark

Yeah it does. I added a T in line at the extinguisher and added one nozzle covering the fuel cell. Just in case.
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post #114 of 135 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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One step forward, how many back? The car fired up and ran great during break in... until it reached operating temp. Then it stumbled and stalled. Same thing the next day. So I pulled the valve covers to check the valve lash thinking they may be too tight and holding valves open when hot. Well, I found one exhaust valve that was stuck open. Great. Pulled the heads, and sure enough, sticky valves. The one stuck one I found had barely kissed the top of the piston leaving a tiny nick. This valve is still stuck in the guide and the guide is loose in the head. So back to the machine shop... I pulled the lifters and luckily they and the cam still look new, so it looks like only head work.



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Last edited by gikort; 02-23-2019 at 10:02 PM.
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post #115 of 135 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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Since the engine is now ripped apart again, I was able to work on a few other little projects. Here is the tow hook I made for the front. CNC cut from 1/2" aluminum with a notch milled out to clear the front valance bolt.





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post #116 of 135 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 07:37 AM
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great build so far, keep going
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post #117 of 135 (permalink) Old 02-28-2019, 02:36 PM
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I was going to put the starter button here too, but figured I would use the stock key location since there is a big ugly hole there that needs to be filled in. Any suggestions on lettering?

For the start button? "VAMONOS"
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post #118 of 135 (permalink) Old 03-10-2019, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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Looks like 16 new guides and 1 new exhaust valve. Ugh what a pain. Should have the heads back from the machine shop this week.
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post #119 of 135 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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While the heads are at the machine shop (again), I figured I would rebuild the rear end. Of course a couple hour job turned into a couple hours just getting the third member out of the axle housing. Finally got it out, cleaned up, and rebuilt. New billet 4-pinion trac-lok and new gear set.




I figured while I was at it, I would replace the axle seals and bearings and add some extended wheel studs.




Test fitting the wheels (these wheels require special 45 degree lug nuts instead of the standard 60 degree.




And these bad boys showed up
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post #120 of 135 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 11:41 PM
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Bummer to hear about the heads. I'm going to have to head down that road at some point with my 351w.
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