1967 T/A Group II Clone - Page 9 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #121 of 135 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 02:28 AM
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I guess I better start posting updates on the car. Per everyone's recommendation, I decided to go for a Lakewood scattershield. It's big and heavy, but looks really good, and the piece of mind is worth the effort.



Not sure with the newer Lakewood's, but my older model required offset dowels to dial in runout to within 0.01 TIR. I required 0.021 offset dowels, which was a substantial correction, as I was having difficulty shifting prior.

If you find you need dowels, RobbMc makes adjustable dowels that make it quite convenient to set the initial adjustments. Additionally, when removing the scatter shield in the future, these dowels allow the correction to be held in place.

https://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/dowels.html

Enjoying your build!
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66 GT350 Tribute in Sapphire Blue built over 12-years and finally being driven!
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post #122 of 135 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 09:20 AM
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So the 235/50/15 will fit the front w/o rubbing or did you make changes for that- rolled/pulled fenders? Different suspension or will they clear stock?

'67 Coupe Candy Apple red/red interior; original 289 stroked to 333ci; AFR 165cc heads; built AOD; 9" diff; T/A paint scheme planned.
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post #123 of 135 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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Bummer to hear about the heads. I'm going to have to head down that road at some point with my 351w.

Yeah, frustrating ripping it apart again after it was in the car. But hopefully that means I won't have any problems with it going forward. What are you planning with your 351?
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post #124 of 135 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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So the 235/50/15 will fit the front w/o rubbing or did you make changes for that- rolled/pulled fenders? Different suspension or will they clear stock?

I believe they will clear haha. I have a larger diameter (and wider) 245 on the front of my other car with essentially the same suspension and the offset should put the outside of the tire in the same place in relation to the fender. But I don't have them mounted yet, so I can't tell you for sure. Fingers crossed!
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post #125 of 135 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 10:39 AM
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What's the backspacing and size on the Bassett's? you're using?

'67 Coupe Candy Apple red/red interior; original 289 stroked to 333ci; AFR 165cc heads; built AOD; 9" diff; T/A paint scheme planned.
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post #126 of 135 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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What's the backspacing and size on the Bassett's? you're using?

15x7 with 3.75" backspacing. I'll try and get them mounted in the next week or so to check fitment.
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post #127 of 135 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 05:42 PM
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No rush, I like those D hole / NASCAR style rims and plan to put track tires on them if I ever get my '67 running.
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'67 Coupe Candy Apple red/red interior; original 289 stroked to 333ci; AFR 165cc heads; built AOD; 9" diff; T/A paint scheme planned.
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post #128 of 135 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 03:41 PM
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Yeah, frustrating ripping it apart again after it was in the car. But hopefully that means I won't have any problems with it going forward. What are you planning with your 351?
it was built with an edelbrock performer RPM heads and intake, and a mild cam. Im thinking ill just re-ring it, new bearing, and redo the heads. nothing crazy. the motor was great but I ran into some over heating issues back in 2016 while on the power tour, and I think after that, its been a slow death. I would love to go with a 408 stoker and keep the top end the same, but im to the point either I keep the car and keep moving forward with the upgrades or sell it and dedicate time to the fastback.
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post #129 of 135 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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it was built with an edelbrock performer RPM heads and intake, and a mild cam. Im thinking ill just re-ring it, new bearing, and redo the heads. nothing crazy. the motor was great but I ran into some over heating issues back in 2016 while on the power tour, and I think after that, its been a slow death. I would love to go with a 408 stoker and keep the top end the same, but im to the point either I keep the car and keep moving forward with the upgrades or sell it and dedicate time to the fastback.

With a decent cam and decent compression, I'm sure you could make some good power with that top end kit and 351 CI.
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post #130 of 135 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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Got the heads back. 16 new guides, 1 new valve, and new valve jobs.




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post #131 of 135 (permalink) Old 03-22-2019, 12:41 PM
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This engine is awesome. What heads and intake are those again? I saw the rest but somehow missed that part and now I can't find it!

Looks like an RPM AirGap (or similar)

Awesome car by the way! In envious of the Top loader, it's getting real hard to find them!
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post #132 of 135 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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Well guys, quick update. If you're following my other thread https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/v...ine-gurus.html you'll know that after getting the heads put back on and everything hooked back up, the car did the exact same thing. I ran it again, and it did the same thing after only a few minutes before the heads even got hot. So now I'm wondering if it is something with the ignition.



Anyway, while I'm trying to figure out that huge frustration, I got the exhaust finished up. 2.5" with X-pipe and 12" race bullet mufflers exiting out the sides.



I was able to run it (for a few minutes) with the exhaust on there, and it doesn't seem much quieter that open headers. And that was only at 2,000 RPM. Can't wait to see what it sounds like at 7!
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post #133 of 135 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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Got the tires mounted and balanced, and guess what. Only 2 wheels fit. The other two were 5x100mm. UGH. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing twice is this car's motto.

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post #134 of 135 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 04:26 PM
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Got the heads back. 16 new guides, 1 new valve, and new valve jobs.




What did that cost ya? Trying to get an idea what mine might be
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post #135 of 135 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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What did that cost ya? Trying to get an idea what mine might be

Parts (guides, seals, 1 new valve) and labor to install the guides and hone them was $180. New valve job was $200.
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