Father Daughter '66 Coupe Build - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #16 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-26-2018, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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I see the similarity. :-) Post a link to your build thread when you get going.

From the factory:
- '66 A Code Automatic Coupe

Modifications:
- American Autowire Classic Update Kit (510125)
- 3G 130 Amp alternator

Build Thread:
- Father Daughter 66 Coupe Build
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post #17 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-26-2018, 12:56 PM
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Awesome! looking forward to following along.
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post #18 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-26-2018, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Quarnstrom View Post
As mentioned earlier, we have plans for more electrical draw so the alternator upgrade wasn't a killer. One of those additions is fuel injection. After a fair amount of research (honestly the one that influenced me the most, BTW was Nashville Early Bronco) we settled on the FiTech Go EFI 4 Ė 600 HP System. I'll elaborate on it in a future post as it is yet to be installed.



The FiTech unit requires its own temperature sensor but as I still wanted to maintain the gauge in the dash, a second sensor and installation point was needed. Luckily adding a second port is as easy as purchasing this Thermostat Housing With Threaded Port 260/289/302/351W 1965-1973.



As Emily was removing hoses to change out the existing thermostat housing we ran across corroded connections on the water pump.





Since we're pretty much in the 'if it needs replaced, do it' mode, we hit pause until we could get a replacement water pump. After some good input from folks on this forum, we should have our replacement sometime this week. Until then, I think I'm caught up with the progress.


I would look into the MDS atomic EFI kit. I personally like it more than the fiTech. I just installed in on a 72 Duster with a 318. Itís an amazing system. Well as Iím typing this Iíve realized you already purchased the EFI kit haha oops.


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post #19 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-26-2018, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jerrytotin View Post
Well as Iím typing this Iíve realized you already purchased the EFI kit haha oops.
LOL, no worries. Hopefully, I won't regret the FiTech but I'll post results here either way.

From the factory:
- '66 A Code Automatic Coupe

Modifications:
- American Autowire Classic Update Kit (510125)
- 3G 130 Amp alternator

Build Thread:
- Father Daughter 66 Coupe Build
Eric Quarnstrom is offline  
post #20 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-26-2018, 10:42 PM
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Visially I like the MSD as well compared to the fiTech. But yeah. Let us know how it goes.




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post #21 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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New Water Pump Arrives - FlowKooler 1681

We settled on the aluminum FlowKooler 1681 and purchased through Summit for $120.

As others have mentioned this is a GMB case with the FlowKooler bearing and impeller. Overall, it looks like I would expect for a new part. :-) The pulley spins with a bit of resistance but no grinding and it doesn't wobble as others have reported. It doesn't spin as freely as the old one but I'm hoping the difference is wear and tear. Here's a picture for reference.
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From the factory:
- '66 A Code Automatic Coupe

Modifications:
- American Autowire Classic Update Kit (510125)
- 3G 130 Amp alternator

Build Thread:
- Father Daughter 66 Coupe Build
Eric Quarnstrom is offline  
post #22 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Isn't this supposed to be a water passage?

Aligning schedules to get time to work on the Mustang proved a bit difficult but finally got to swapping out the water pump. Here's Emily breaking the old one loose.


Upon removal of the old water pump, I was saddened to see the driver's side water passage completely plugged. I'm not sure if you can tell from the photo but it's plugged with a mixture of something like plaster, rust and sawdust... Yuck!



With thoughts of the driver's side head not getting coolant, we dug the gunk out only to find that there doesn't appear to be an actual water passage. Rather it's blocked off from the original casting. Is that possible?




I poked around in there with a screwdriver and it's solid and 'klinks' like tapping on metal. Well after pondering the possibility of alternate water routing and searching for coolant flow diagrams online, I couldn't find anything that suggests this should be blocked. So I poked harder with the
screw driver and finally it gave way. The metal is very thin and now you can see the hole I put in it.



So now my question to you experienced guys... is this supposed to be open for coolant flow? Do I need to plug it back up? Has it been starving the drivers side of coolant and I likely have other issues? Remember, I've only driven the car a limited amount and in cool weather but didn't experience overheating allthough I'm not sure if the temperature gauge would have even indicated a overheating problem if there was a lack of coolant flow.

Anyhow, advice needed.
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From the factory:
- '66 A Code Automatic Coupe

Modifications:
- American Autowire Classic Update Kit (510125)
- 3G 130 Amp alternator

Build Thread:
- Father Daughter 66 Coupe Build
Eric Quarnstrom is offline  
post #23 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 08:05 PM
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I happen to have the h20 pump off my 66 and took a look That hole should definitely be open into the block.
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James

66 Coupe Project 289
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post #24 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 09:26 PM
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PROJECT CREEP ALERT.Not what you want to hear ,But you should consider going a little deeper. At least remove the timing cover and scope things out from there probably needs a timing chain anyway. If things are still plugged and full of rust you may be into a rebuild.You'll want this http://forum.ellum.ch/Ranger/How%20T...ock%20Ford.pdf


Brad
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post #25 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 11:21 PM
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Yea... that engine needs to be pulled apart and hot tanked to get rid of all that mineral build-up. If not, you are just asking for overheating issues.
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post #26 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-18-2018, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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I happen to have the h20 pump off my 66 and took a look That hole should definitely be open into the block.
Yeah... I figured that would be the case... :-( Thanks for checking.

From the factory:
- '66 A Code Automatic Coupe

Modifications:
- American Autowire Classic Update Kit (510125)
- 3G 130 Amp alternator

Build Thread:
- Father Daughter 66 Coupe Build
Eric Quarnstrom is offline  
post #27 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-18-2018, 12:30 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 2nd 66 View Post
PROJECT CREEP ALERT.Not what you want to hear ,But you should consider going a little deeper. At least remove the timing cover and scope things out from there probably needs a timing chain anyway. If things are still plugged and full of rust you may be into a rebuild.You'll want this http://forum.ellum.ch/Ranger/How%20T...ock%20Ford.pdf
Oh man... I was hoping your link was going to be to one of those borescope things so I could take a peek inside... not the rebuild manual.

From the factory:
- '66 A Code Automatic Coupe

Modifications:
- American Autowire Classic Update Kit (510125)
- 3G 130 Amp alternator

Build Thread:
- Father Daughter 66 Coupe Build
Eric Quarnstrom is offline  
post #28 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-18-2018, 12:33 AM Thread Starter
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Yea... that engine needs to be pulled apart and hot tanked to get rid of all that mineral build-up. If not, you are just asking for overheating issues.
Roboticservo, are you saying the blocked water passage is from mineral build up? Not a casting error or something? That's crazy.

I guess I have some thinking to do regarding next steps.

Thanks for the input.

From the factory:
- '66 A Code Automatic Coupe

Modifications:
- American Autowire Classic Update Kit (510125)
- 3G 130 Amp alternator

Build Thread:
- Father Daughter 66 Coupe Build
Eric Quarnstrom is offline  
post #29 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-18-2018, 01:11 AM
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At a min, I would pop all the freeze plugs and rinse everything out and clean the block through the freeze plugs (with water hose, screwdriver, etc). This is best done with ththe engine on a engine stand.

I did this on my engine (it was out when I bought the car) and was able to clean out a bunch of rust from 20 years of sitting (as well as what looked like original casting sand). It really only takes a couple hours to pull the engine if you have the tools/ space. If the engine ran well, a quick cleanup and gasket change could be done over a long weekend. As mentioned, you always run the risk of project creep.

James

66 Coupe Project 289
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post #30 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-18-2018, 02:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Eric Quarnstrom View Post
Roboticservo, are you saying the blocked water passage is from mineral build up? Not a casting error or something? That's crazy.

I guess I have some thinking to do regarding next steps.

Thanks for the input.
That sort of buildup is common in an engine that old. In the southwest the water has a pretty high mineral content unless you soften it. The car predates using pre mix coolant and could be it's been run a good amount of its life on straight water or not with an optimal water/coolant ratio. If those water pump connections are that damaged there is a good chance some of the water jackets in the block are clogged or near clogged.

Like Roboticservo says best to have the block tanked and measured. Looks like it's never been apart or it was a long, long time ago. You've already got the harness and FI at this point. You could put something more modern it but with FI and some new bits you can still get a fair amount of power from that 289. Enough for a good driver/cruiser.

Were it mine I wouldn't hang a bunch of new accessories on it until I knew the block had good flow and measured in spec. Figure $100 or so for the tank, cam bearings and freeze plugs. Then you'll want to look at the bearings and rings. You could do a leak down and compression test to get an idea on the rings but at this age you may want to do bearings and rings. That may require a hone, maybe a bore and some crank work. Realistically you could have $700-800 into a short block rebuild depending on the machine work.

If you go with a modern resto mod you'll be a few grand into motor and trans easy. Plus the fab of fitting it. If you go with an unknown quantity of a used late model engine you may need to have the engine rebuilt anyway though you could go someplace like LKQ and get a pretty good late model salvage with a bit of a warranty. But it won't be a drop in either.

Looks like you've got some deciding to do...
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