1970 Mustang Fastback Boss 302 Tribute Coyote Restomod Build - Page 11 - Vintage Mustang Forums
 116Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #151 of 159 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Prescott, Arizona
Posts: 594
Garage
Finished Front Suspension Test Fit

I have been worked a little each day for the last 5 putting together the last of the TCP G-Machine front suspension with Wilwood 13" 4-piston front brakes. I completed the fit checks for the steering rack tie rod ends, splined anti-sway bar, single adjustable coil-over shocks, 12.88" Wilwood rotors with hats, and last the Wilwood 4-piston calipers with pads. Lots of little parts and torque specs involved in assembling the rotor assemblies, just takes time. When installing the coil-over shocks, it took a bit of leverage to get the lower shock mount to clear the lower A-arm. Once you have done it, no big deal but a bit of a head scratcher at first. Everything fit beautifully, very pleased with the fit and finish.

The suspension A-arms and spindles are part of what TCP calls their G-machine level suspension. This is the 3rd level up of 4 in terms of performance and cost regarding the components used. More than enough for a high performance street machine that will see a little bit of Auto-X and track time.

With the brakes on, time to measure for SS flex brake lines.

DS pics:






PS pics:





Alan
1970 Mach 1 Coyote powered restomod in progress. Started 10/2016.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...mod-build.html
2017 Mustang GT AT donor purchased 9/2017.
FFR MK4 sold 3/1/2018.
Boss5Oh is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #152 of 159 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Prescott, Arizona
Posts: 594
Garage
Rolling Chassis

I bolted on the front wheels this morning to achieve rolling chassis status for the first time in about 2 years. The clearance from the front wheels to calipers is close, but clears by about 3/16". All is good, going to move back to the rear suspension and install the anti-sway bar. Once that is done, the fit checks for the suspension, both front and rear will be done.

Still waiting on the 2nd set of test fit headers for the car. They have a new configuration which should clear up my clearance issues with the engine. The design has been captured and the first set of the new configuration was sent out to another shop. Once they have confirmation of the design, they will tack together a set for me to try. This process is taking time, but in the end I will have a better fitting product.




Alan
1970 Mach 1 Coyote powered restomod in progress. Started 10/2016.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...mod-build.html
2017 Mustang GT AT donor purchased 9/2017.
FFR MK4 sold 3/1/2018.
Boss5Oh is offline  
post #153 of 159 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 06:16 PM
Senior Member
 
Turnall's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Dothan, AL
Posts: 4,548
Those minilite lookalikes look GREAT!!


Allen
Grabber70Mach likes this.

My build thread: Allen's Build Thread

My go fast build thread: Go Fast Build Thread
Turnall is offline  
 
post #154 of 159 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 12:38 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Prescott, Arizona
Posts: 594
Garage
AC and Heater Plumbing Diagram for Coyote and Vintage Air

I have been working on planning out the plumbing for the Vintage Air AC and heater core plumbing. Here is the diagram I have put together so far. It is complete with the exception of the bypass valve for the heater core. I need to do a bit more research on the correct type of valve.

If the diagram is incorrect or needs something added, please comment.

Huntingky likes this.

Alan
1970 Mach 1 Coyote powered restomod in progress. Started 10/2016.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...mod-build.html
2017 Mustang GT AT donor purchased 9/2017.
FFR MK4 sold 3/1/2018.
Boss5Oh is offline  
post #155 of 159 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 09:55 AM
Senior Member
 
Huntingky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Central Kentucky
Posts: 3,049
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boss5Oh View Post
I have been working on planning out the plumbing for the Vintage Air AC and heater core plumbing. Here is the diagram I have put together so far. It is complete with the exception of the bypass valve for the heater core. I need to do a bit more research on the correct type of valve.

If the diagram is incorrect or needs something added, please comment.

Hope it is correct, I just saved it for my own reference.

Coyote build in 65 GT Fastback in body work https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/b...e-powered.html and on Facebook @65gtmustang
F150 SCREW Ecoboost as my daily
66 Emberglow Coupe first car,71 Torino GT, 82 Fastback slooooow 6 banger, 71 Boss 351, 85 GT all long gone
Huntingky is offline  
post #156 of 159 (permalink) Old 07-13-2019, 01:16 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Prescott, Arizona
Posts: 594
Garage
Updated AC Plumbing with Heater Bypass Valve

I have been working on the details of the heater bypass valve for the Coyote. The configuration documented is the same as I used on my Factory Five Cobra built 6 years ago. In addition to the Motorcraft YG-350 heater bypass valve, I have added the Vintage Air 11542-VUS Vacuum Solenoid as well. On the Factory Five, the heater switch had an output that was hot when any of the switch positions for low, med, and high fan were selected. This made it easy to control the vacuum solenoid. I will need to find a switched voltage from the vintage air evaporator controls to do the same thing. I will figure this out down the road. This figure is mostly to document what I plan on doing as I found my Cobra build documentation was lacking in this department.


Alan
1970 Mach 1 Coyote powered restomod in progress. Started 10/2016.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...mod-build.html
2017 Mustang GT AT donor purchased 9/2017.
FFR MK4 sold 3/1/2018.
Boss5Oh is offline  
post #157 of 159 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Prescott, Arizona
Posts: 594
Garage
A Bit More Progress

I have been doing some more work on the cooling system plumbing.

I finished the mod to the PS inner fender apron to gain some room so that the lower radiator hose would fit.



I have been working on a template for the firewall patch. Getting closer, but need to work on the details. I want to push back the connections to the heater lines, but having a bit of trouble where they pass through the patch.



With the evaporator in place, I have been evaluating how to route the AC lines through the bulkhead into the PS fender well. I think I have the placement of the bulkhead connector where I want it.




I added the Vintage Air drier and passenger side hardline kit. On the Coyote, the OEM placement for the AC compressor is on the PS of the engine, the PS line kit will work fine once I tweak the end of the -6 line as the bend is too sharp to clear the edge of the radiator.


Alan
1970 Mach 1 Coyote powered restomod in progress. Started 10/2016.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...mod-build.html
2017 Mustang GT AT donor purchased 9/2017.
FFR MK4 sold 3/1/2018.
Boss5Oh is offline  
post #158 of 159 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Prescott, Arizona
Posts: 594
Garage
Front Brake Flex Line Routing

I bought two Wilwood brake flexline kits 220-9195 for the front and 220-7056 for the rear. The kit for the front includes brackets for the subframe, the rear kit does not and I will make my own. It is amazing how much some vendors want to charge for a piece of steel with a hole in it.

With the coil over suspension, the front brake lines do not route the same was as was done for stock. I found I had to change to a 90 degree fitting, supplied as part of the 220-7056 kit, at the caliper and then I could route the line without interference with the wheel/tire or the upper A-arm. A lot of trial and error before I found a routing that worked. The hardline will exit through the inner fender apron, route downward and then do a 180 upto the flexline.
The 45 degree fitting supplied with the 220-9195 kit will work well on the rear brake line routing. I am not going to route the lines across the axle, but rather above the 4-link cradle. A little different, but will keep the lines out of harms way.

DS



PS

SWPruett and Huntingky like this.

Alan
1970 Mach 1 Coyote powered restomod in progress. Started 10/2016.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...mod-build.html
2017 Mustang GT AT donor purchased 9/2017.
FFR MK4 sold 3/1/2018.
Boss5Oh is offline  
post #159 of 159 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 01:11 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Prescott, Arizona
Posts: 594
Garage
Latest Story on Headers

Two weeks ago, I received a new header configuration 471071 from Ultimate Headers to evaluate. Well, this new configuration fit better, but a new issue was found. The #1 and #5 pipes go up and over the top next to the heads, so close in fact the were in contact with the valve cover bolt bosses. The new set will go back next week for modification, and when returned they can be installed for good. This new configuration was primarily designed for the Roadster Shop chassis for the first Gen Mustang, however it will also work with the Total Control Products front clip. This configuration fits very snug to the block with plenty of clearance to the frame rails and floor portions of the firewall. I will post a complete set of pictures once the headers are modified and the configuration finalized.

New header configuration:









While the headers were in the car, I wanted to work out a solution for the steering shaft. With these headers, a intermediate steering support bearing is required for connecting to my TCP power steering rack. In addition to the steering shaft kit from TCP, I am adding a Borgeson support bearing and one additional Unisteer U-joint. I mounted the steering support bearing to a piece of 2" x 2" x 1/8" angle and moved it around till I found a position that kept the bearing pretty square to the mounting block. I will do some more testing tomorrow to make sure there is no binding. The use of 3/4" dowel made mocking up the configuration easier. Once I am convinced all is good, I will cut the 3/4" double D shaft material to match the dowels. Here are a couple of pictures of the mockup.



Alan
1970 Mach 1 Coyote powered restomod in progress. Started 10/2016.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...mod-build.html
2017 Mustang GT AT donor purchased 9/2017.
FFR MK4 sold 3/1/2018.
Boss5Oh is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome