1970 Mustang Fastback Boss 302 Tribute Coyote Restomod Build - Page 3 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #31 of 159 (permalink) Old 04-13-2018, 06:26 PM
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The ones I've seen are not a rotisserie, but a tip-over jig.
https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C....0.sMAXgAcTvqo
Though I do see rotisseries:
https://www.google.com/search?q=wood...EIMTAE#imgrc=_

'65 A-code coupe, T-10 4-speed, 8" 3.25 limited slip
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post #32 of 159 (permalink) Old 04-13-2018, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Although I appreciate the suggestions, not going there. Too much invested in the car and not willing to get hurt trying to save a few bucks with a home made solution.

This has gotten off topic, no need to continue this.

Alan

Alan
1970 Mach 1 Coyote powered restomod in progress. Started 10/2016.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...mod-build.html
2017 Mustang GT AT donor purchased 9/2017.
FFR MK4 sold 3/1/2018.
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post #33 of 159 (permalink) Old 05-01-2018, 12:09 AM Thread Starter
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Aligned Shock Tower Delete Panels

A couple of weeks ago, I received the rubber splash shields that work with the shock tower delete panels. TCP sells them separately from the weld-in front sub-frame, so I did not get them in my original order. Turns out, the only way IMO to properly position the tower delete panels, is to use install the splash shield and use them to correctly locate the tower delete panels. The splash flaps fit around the upper A-arm support with only about a 1/8" to spare on each side, so when centered, the tower delete panel is correctly positioned. Anyway, I completed the initial fitment, now I need to remove the panels and grind clean all the mating surfaces in preparation for welding. I plan to tack weld the tower delete panels with the inner fender aprons initially, then fit all the bracketry for the hood, install the fenders and hood to verify all the sheet metal is where it belongs. I will then tear it all apart and final plug and stitch weld the tower delete panels and inner fender aprons. I will leave the new radiator support clamped in place only so that installation and removal of the Coyote and 6R80 transmission is easier during modification of the transmission tunnel.




Alan
1970 Mach 1 Coyote powered restomod in progress. Started 10/2016.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...mod-build.html
2017 Mustang GT AT donor purchased 9/2017.
FFR MK4 sold 3/1/2018.
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post #34 of 159 (permalink) Old 05-01-2018, 12:20 AM Thread Starter
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Front Suspension Is On Its Way

The week before last I ordered the G-machine front suspension for the build. The G-machine package is geared toward a high performance pro touring type build. You can configure the package somewhat in that you can choose the finish, hardware, end link styles, brake size, shock type, and sway bar. I would say I put together a middle of the market package and still went into sticker shock. Lets say without quoting numbers, it was a bunch! Well you know what they say, the good stuff costs, so I am hopeful the parts are equal to their reputation. I went with the single adjustable shocks/coil overs and the 13" 4-piston Wilwoods.

I got notice that UPS picked up the parts today, so I should have the stuff in about a week at my door.

For those who might like more information, here is a link to the TCP data sheet for the weld-in front clip. It shows the sub-frame, suspension, steering rack, etc.

http://www.cachassisworks.com/Attach...CXX_DS_WEB.pdf
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Alan
1970 Mach 1 Coyote powered restomod in progress. Started 10/2016.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...mod-build.html
2017 Mustang GT AT donor purchased 9/2017.
FFR MK4 sold 3/1/2018.
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post #35 of 159 (permalink) Old 05-03-2018, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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Suspension Components Arrived

The brown truck brought the first delivery of front suspension components today. I have been going through all the boxes and creating an inventory for what I received. So far I have accounted for:
1. Power Steering Rack ( A surprise since it was supposed to be back ordered )
2. Splined front anti-roll bar.
3. Spindles
4. Upper Control Arms and HW
5. Hubs with bearings and studs
6. Drivers and Passenger side 13 Wilwood rotors

More to do today and then enter items onto my parts spreadsheet.

I have removed the drivers side tower delete and front inner fender apron so that I could remove the protective coatings in the areas where the parts will be welded. I am also putting holes in the panels for plug welding where applicable. I installed the hood latch support bracket that connects the front of the sub-frame to the top of the radiator support. Good thing I did, I pointed out that there is an errant picture in the TCP installation instructions. One picture showed the radiator support to be in front of a bracket for welding, yet another pictures showed in behind. The bracket and radiator support did not fit well together when the bottom of the radiator support was in front of the welding flange, so I moved it to behind the flange and the components lined up much better. A lesson to remember as some of the feedback I have received here on VMForum was to assemble as much as I can before even tack welding the parts together, now I know why. In addition to finishing the inventory, I hope I will be able to reassemble the drivers side tower delete and front inner fender apron panels. Friday, I hope to get the passenger side tower delete and front inner fender apron panels removed and prepared and then reassembled. With those items done, it will be time to check my parts inventory to see if I have some of the other front brackets required to mount the front valence, bumper, inner fender liners, fenders, grill, etc. I intend on assembling the entire front end of the car to verify that the inner fender aprons and radiator support are in the right place before disassembly and final welding.

Alan
1970 Mach 1 Coyote powered restomod in progress. Started 10/2016.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...mod-build.html
2017 Mustang GT AT donor purchased 9/2017.
FFR MK4 sold 3/1/2018.
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post #36 of 159 (permalink) Old 05-03-2018, 12:15 PM
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holly crap man! I so just went through TCP's website and priced out what I would need to do this swap on my 69 vert. while the front clip is affordable, the suspension and steering to finish it out.. not so much. Is there a way to use others front suspension parts with this? without brakes im well over $8K in parts.


which brings me to this: why did you do with this over other kits that are complete?
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post #37 of 159 (permalink) Old 05-03-2018, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdub4u View Post
holly crap man! I so just went through TCP's website and priced out what I would need to do this swap on my 69 vert. while the front clip is affordable, the suspension and steering to finish it out.. not so much. Is there a way to use others front suspension parts with this? without brakes im well over $8K in parts.
which brings me to this: why did you do with this over other kits that are complete?
Yeah, the TCP weld-in front clip with suspension, steering rack, and shocks is expensive, however not that different from their peers. At one time I considered doing the complete frame from Schwartz performance. A full chassis with suspension, IRS, brakes, etc. was on the order of $28K. Needless to say I rejected the idea. I then started looking at TCP, Heights, and Detroit Speed. The comparison was eye opening, TCP actually looked to be the least costly at the time. I also was leaning toward the weld-in front clip from TCP because my car had suffered some front end damage at the hands of the original owner. The passenger side frame was tweeked a bit and the sheet metal from the rear inner fender aprons needed replacement. So, based on the condition of the car, it appeared to be easiest to ditch the OEM front sub-frame, sheet metal, and shock towers. I am installing a 2017 Gen 2 Coyote, so I wanted the front of the car to be stronger and more twist resistant than stock. Given my constraints and desires, it was cheaper to go with TCP for my project IMO.

That said, my initial outlay for the weld-in front clip was $2.3K including the transmission cross member. I used CJPP for the front clip because of the points I could use toward other purchases. When I went to buy the front suspension, I found that no other vendor sold the full line of TCP parts. Both CJPP and Mustang Depot sold some of the parts, but not all. I also found that MD was charging for the PS rack where it was included from TCP. I contacted CJPP customer service and discussed my dilemma, but they could not accommodate anything not available on the web site. When I priced out the suspension package initially, I had included dual adjustable shocks and 14" Wilwoods. After reading some posts on another Mustang forum, the consensus was that the dual adjustable shocks provided too many adjustments and it was suggested that single adjustable was more than adequate. So I went with the g-machine pro-touring setup, but not optioned out to the Nth degree. The cost of the package with shipping came to a bit over $6.7K including 13" Wilwoods and a late model Ford bracket for the transmission cross member. All in for the front so far is about $9K. In the beginning, I thought I would be more in the $7K range, but I missed some of the extras I decided to go with.

One has to trade off your requirements against cost. Given I expect on the order of 500 crank HP from the Coyote, strength and rigidity were a priority. Over the last month or so I have looked at packages for the rear suspension including the Fab9 rear axle, TruTrac center section with gears, axles, brakes, etc. Again another sticker shock. The rear setup will be on the order of the same amount as the front, maybe a bit less. So is $17K to $18K a lot of money, yes, but the quality of the parts are top notch. I was looking at the welding on the A-arms and they are a work of art.

All in all the plan for the car was a middle to higher end pro-touring restomod. I think the build will be well received by all who look at it when it is done. There is another factor to throw in, I was very fortunate to find a 2017 GT donor for the engine and transmisson. Want to get some sticker shock, price out the Ford Performance Coyote/6R80 combination, about $17K retail plus the controls pack, alternator, accessory drive system, headers, etc. I figure you could easily be in the $20K retail range and possibly a few thousand less if you pick the right vendors. I got my donor car purchased at auction and delivered for $6.5K. The car was only 4 months old when it was totaled out from front end damage and being striped. The car had a junk title and could not be registered for road use again, so I got it cheap. Most builders would not be so fortunate to find a donor like I did. So, compared to paying retail for the drive train, the cheap donor allowed me to spend more on the suspension part of the build. Again I was looking at the end game and the quality of the build.

I will mention that TCP is in or has completed a price increase. On my splined front sway bar alone, it went up $100. Other items went up a few percent or more.

Alan

Alan
1970 Mach 1 Coyote powered restomod in progress. Started 10/2016.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...mod-build.html
2017 Mustang GT AT donor purchased 9/2017.
FFR MK4 sold 3/1/2018.

Last edited by Boss5Oh; 05-03-2018 at 10:25 PM. Reason: spelling
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post #38 of 159 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Shock Tower Delete Panel Modifications

Wow, I see it has been a while since I posted anything about the shock tower delete panel install. Initially, I did not order the splash flaps with the subframe kit, a mistake. IMO, the splash flaps are absolutely necessary to align the shock tower delete panels. I ordered the splash flaps from a vendor in San Diego which took 3 weeks to receive them where I thought I should have gotten them in one week. Oh well, scratch that vendor for any future orders.
Once the splash flaps were received, I installed them and noticed that I had to muscle the shock tower delete panels into position to align them. It was like I had to rotate them forward counterclockwise in order for the splash flap to align with the shock mount. I contacted TCP, but simply got confirmation that I had the correct parts for my 1970 Mustang. I was not satisfied with the fit, so I took it upon myself to look for another solution. I thought about getting full replacement inner fender aprons and shock tower delete panels from Mustangs to Fear, but too much added expense and another unknown regarding their fitment. So I decided to prototype changes to the existing shock tower delete panels in construction cardboard as verification of any modifications. The following posts will document the changes and process I went through to achieve the fit I was after for my vehicle.

Alan

Alan
1970 Mach 1 Coyote powered restomod in progress. Started 10/2016.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...mod-build.html
2017 Mustang GT AT donor purchased 9/2017.
FFR MK4 sold 3/1/2018.
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post #39 of 159 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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Prototying Changes in Cardboard

As shown in the picture below, I worked out the necessary modifications by first relocating the splash flap on the existing panels. I then made up a cardboard version of the shock tower delete panels to verify my changes.













Alan

Alan
1970 Mach 1 Coyote powered restomod in progress. Started 10/2016.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...mod-build.html
2017 Mustang GT AT donor purchased 9/2017.
FFR MK4 sold 3/1/2018.
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post #40 of 159 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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Modifying Original Shock Tower Delete Panels

With a modification layout that appeared to work, the next step was to create a modified shock tower delete panel that was a hybrid of metal and cardboard. I chose to cut away the lower third of the shock tower delete panel just below the bead rolled center section. I cut away the lower third of my cardboard panel along the same cut line and used package tape to connect the two. I then installed the modified hybrid panel to confirm it fit as did the full cardboard panel. I did find I wanted to rotate the opening for the A-arms a bit for better alignment, so I added a little wedge piece of cardboard. At this point I was satisfied with the fit, time to move on to metal.





Alan

Alan
1970 Mach 1 Coyote powered restomod in progress. Started 10/2016.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...mod-build.html
2017 Mustang GT AT donor purchased 9/2017.
FFR MK4 sold 3/1/2018.
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post #41 of 159 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Shock Tower Delete Panel Modifications in Metal

The plan was to stitch weld on 14 gauge metal in place of the cardboard template.

Here is a view of the panel cut to where you can see what was removed.



Here is the 5 1/2" x 15 1/2" x 14 gauge replacement panel.



Here is the panel clamped in preparation for stitch welding.



Here is the first pass on the stitch welding. I made successive passes until all the stitch welds joined, then ground down the weld bead and finished up with an air grinder with a sanding disc.





The same was done on the backside of the panel.



Here are the final results.





I did lengthen the panels as well so that they would mate up to the welding flanges supplied. I have a bit more preparation to do prior to welding in the panels, but for the most part the changes are done.

Alan
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Alan
1970 Mach 1 Coyote powered restomod in progress. Started 10/2016.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...mod-build.html
2017 Mustang GT AT donor purchased 9/2017.
FFR MK4 sold 3/1/2018.
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post #42 of 159 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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Radiator Support

I also had located the radiator support and latch support bracket to verify all is aligned properly. I have done corner to corner measurements and all is square within 1/16" and the radiator support is level with the sub-frame. The welding flanges from the sub-frame to the inner fender aprons and shock tower delete panels will be welded in first. The radiator support will be left clamped in place while fitting the engine and transmission. The Coyote and 6R80 transmission make for a large package. Leaving off the radiator support as the modifications to the firewall and transmission tunnel are worked out will make it easier installing and removing the E/T package for however many times it has to go in and out.



After a bit more preparation, I plan to start plug welding in the flanges and panels.

Alan
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Alan
1970 Mach 1 Coyote powered restomod in progress. Started 10/2016.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...mod-build.html
2017 Mustang GT AT donor purchased 9/2017.
FFR MK4 sold 3/1/2018.
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post #43 of 159 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 10:00 AM
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Looks great. My biggest frustration with the build has been the fact that nothing fits. Even the simple pieces that should mate right up are off. This has been so much harder than building the FFR.
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Dan
Chapel Hill, NC
***PM me if you're close by and can lend a hand with my 65 Fastback project***
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post #44 of 159 (permalink) Old 06-23-2018, 12:09 AM Thread Starter
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Shock Tower Delete Panels Mostly Welded In

I made some good progress this week completing most of the plug welding for the shock tower delete panels and flanges to tie the inner fender aprons to the new TCP subframe. After having good success with my practice plug welds, I decided that I would just go for it. I found that I liked to weld around the perimeter of the plug weld hole and finish in the center. I was very happy with the results my ESAB Rebel welder provided on the Smart MIG mode. I ran the welder set for the thicker of the metals being joined.

Here are a few pics of the work in progress.

Here is a picture showing the plug welds before grinding and sanding them flat.



Here I have ground most of the plug welds down but some yet to do.



Here are a couple shots from the wheel wells showing the discoloration on the backside and thus the heat transfer.





I should finish up this weekend. I need to pick up some magnets at HF to assist in holding some small patch pieces to fill overlapping holes. In a couple places, the plug weld hole on the shock tower delete panels partially matched up with the old shock tower bolt holes. I have a couple of crescent moon shaped voids I need to fill before final plug welding.

All in all, I thought the plug welding came out great for a novice. Thank goodness for the smart MIG technology, I think made the results better than I could have done without it.

Alan

Alan
1970 Mach 1 Coyote powered restomod in progress. Started 10/2016.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...mod-build.html
2017 Mustang GT AT donor purchased 9/2017.
FFR MK4 sold 3/1/2018.
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post #45 of 159 (permalink) Old 06-23-2018, 06:44 AM
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Enjoying watching this build.
I’m waiting for my 70 fastback to be delivered so will follow with great interest.
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