66 T Code - T is for Transformation - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #16 of 549 (permalink) Old 03-29-2018, 05:24 PM
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Decided to take apart the engine that came in the GT when I bought it. It was not a correct dated 289 is why I built another engine for it. I found some interesting (to me) numbers on this engine.

The block only has __AE __15-B 7M (It does have 7M19 on the tab in front of the drivers cylinder head).
The heads are date coded 7M6 and 7M18 with 289 on the heads.
The block has 302 in the valley.
The engine tag has M19 as well and shows it as a 68 2bbl engine.
The intake has obviously been replaced.
All of the cylinder bores on the passenger side are reading 4.00x (highest x is 3). I don't have the drivers head off at the moment.

I guess this was one of the last 289's and seems to be all still together outside of the intake.

This engine just may be a good candidate for this car...

Allen
What is the stamped partial VIN? Maybe it's my original motor, harhar!!
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post #17 of 549 (permalink) Old 03-29-2018, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 68Hildago View Post
What is the stamped partial VIN? Maybe it's my original motor, harhar!!
Extremely hard to see but looks like 2C140736.

Allen
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post #18 of 549 (permalink) Old 03-29-2018, 06:06 PM
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Extremely hard to see but looks like 2C140736.

Allen
Damn, mine needs to be an 8R1644XX, hehe.

I currently have an 8R126737 stamped 289 in my 68.

Thx
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post #19 of 549 (permalink) Old 03-30-2018, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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Man this engine is dirty but the specs are like new...

Allen
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post #20 of 549 (permalink) Old 03-30-2018, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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Dirty...

Allen
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post #21 of 549 (permalink) Old 03-30-2018, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Kind of apropo...

Allen
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post #22 of 549 (permalink) Old 03-31-2018, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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I pulled the trigger on a set of heads for this build today...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Windso...53.m2749.l2649

Via recommendation from patrickstapler...

Allen
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post #23 of 549 (permalink) Old 03-31-2018, 06:34 PM
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Very very nice! Now you just have to build everything around them
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post #24 of 549 (permalink) Old 03-31-2018, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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Very very nice! Now you just have to build everything around them
SOOO true...

Allen

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post #25 of 549 (permalink) Old 04-01-2018, 02:00 AM
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A couple of more...More plans are no heater, basically no frills whatsoever.
Looks good.

Depending on where you run it you may want to leave enough of the heater in for the defroster. Or make provisions for a minimal defroster. Even with moderate temps it can fog the windshield. Using Rain-X could help but it's no substitute for a defroster.
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post #26 of 549 (permalink) Old 04-01-2018, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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Ok. This 289. I'm going to be looking at turning some high rpm's. I love the way, @silverblueBP, Mark's engine sounds at 7k rpm's. I know what, @patrickstapler, Patricks engine sounds like. I want to build this engine to spin at least as well as Patrick's but not sure I'm ready to drop the coin that Mark has. I need bottom end advice. I have what appears to be a good 289 crankshaft but need to know what to do to the bottom end to make it hold up to the rpm range I'm thinking of.

Any advice is welcome...

Thanks,

Allen

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Last edited by Turnall; 04-01-2018 at 11:09 PM.
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post #27 of 549 (permalink) Old 04-01-2018, 11:06 PM
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I pulled the trigger on a set of heads for this build today...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Windso...53.m2749.l2649

Via recommendation from patrickstapler...

Allen
I have a set of those listed for $500.00. But maybe I forgot to post them on this forum?
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post #28 of 549 (permalink) Old 04-01-2018, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
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I have a set of those listed for $500.00. But maybe I forgot to post them on this forum?
Well, post them...

Allen

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post #29 of 549 (permalink) Old 04-02-2018, 10:17 AM
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Mark abused his stock 289 crank at 7500RPM for several years with no problem. They all have a life span. If you want to play with the big boys, itís going to cost you. Call Callies, Crower, or CA for the proper 289 rotating assembly. CA is only a reseller...probably of those two. Remember, NO stokers allowed. I asked Mark if he thought his original engine would still be running had he invested in a forged rotating assembly up front and he said yes. His stock 1M crank broke at the number 2 journal.

Regards,
Patrick
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post #30 of 549 (permalink) Old 04-02-2018, 10:28 AM
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Also, you will need to be in the 12.5-13.0:1 range for compression ratio.

Regards,
Patrick
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