66 T Code - T is for Transformation - Page 29 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #421 of 577 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 10:47 PM
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Well, the front brake project has taken a turn for the worse, or maybe just a learning experience.

The rotors on my list are actually meant to go on the inside of the hub with the lug studs pressed through the rotor then through the hub. This is not at all what I was looking to do. Who wants to have to press lugs in and out every time you change a rotor? I'm working with @Shaun at Street or Track to try and get everything rectified. I'm still going to post a write up with parts needed to make this happen, but it's becoming evident that the package deal is the way to go.

The calipers I ordered came in today but Shaun has advised that some machining has to be done (have you seen that in a write up on adapting to the bigger brakes before?). Anyway, I'm pushing forwarded and will tell the truth, the whole truth and nothing but the truth about the front brakes when done!

The calipers are huge!

Allen
Wait, what type of machining needs to be done and where?
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post #422 of 577 (permalink) Old 01-30-2019, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
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Wait, what type of machining needs to be done and where?
I'm going to defer to @Shaun with Street or Track. Shaun mentioned it to me yesterday but I was working on a job site and didn't catch all the particulars. If you watch his video on his 12 x 1.25 brakes, he discusses it when talking about the calipers.


I'm sure the machining process is part of what drives the cost up, so it's getting easier to see why the price is what it is.

Again, I'll let Shaun tell what the machining is and if he wants to divulge the whole process.

Allen

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post #423 of 577 (permalink) Old 01-30-2019, 10:27 PM
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Ok so theres nothing on the users end that needs to be machined then?
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post #424 of 577 (permalink) Old 01-31-2019, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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Ok so theres nothing on the users end that needs to be machined then?
If you buy Shauns kit, there is no machining needed (he has already done it for you). If you are piecing it together as I'm attempting then there is some machining to be done.

Allen

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post #425 of 577 (permalink) Old 01-31-2019, 07:37 AM
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Machine, did someone say machine?

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post #426 of 577 (permalink) Old 01-31-2019, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
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Wait, what type of machining needs to be done and where?
https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/v...ml#post3641041

I have referenced this thread before now but thought I would show this specific post that actually does say "(You have to grind down the ridge on the side of the caliper to make it clear the wheel)"

The comment is made right past the picture straight on of the Torq Thrust...

Allen

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post #427 of 577 (permalink) Old 01-31-2019, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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I ordered hats, spacers and rotors from @Shaun today from Street or Track, LLC. I'm trooping forward but I don't think the outcome (price wise) is going to be were I thought it would.

Shaun explained that where the calipers mate to the bracket is not flat (on the caliper). I think the calipers mated to the bracket on the original cars on the opposite side of where they will mount on the new brackets so the side you mount to now is just as cast and not milled. So I will have to have that milled flat so the calipers mount perpendicular to the rotors. I will then need pads and braided hoses to complete the front brakes.

I will give the full rundown and cost when finished. I may get laughed off of VMF when I do (especially by a certain two people)...

Allen

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post #428 of 577 (permalink) Old 01-31-2019, 07:47 PM
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Is the price ever where we think it should be?

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

Scott

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post #429 of 577 (permalink) Old 01-31-2019, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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Is the price ever where we think it should be?
IKR? Spoiler alert, buy the kit from Street or Track...

Allen
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post #430 of 577 (permalink) Old 01-31-2019, 08:46 PM
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IKR? Spoiler alert, buy the kit from Street or Track...

Allen
Pot meet Kettle....or something like that

-Mark-

1966 Mustang 2+2

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post #431 of 577 (permalink) Old 01-31-2019, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Pot meet Kettle....or something like that
Can a mod point me to the block a member button?

Allen

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post #432 of 577 (permalink) Old 01-31-2019, 10:52 PM
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Can a mod point me to the block a member button?

Allen
In case you forgot, which you seem to have, he has your cell phone number.
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post #433 of 577 (permalink) Old 02-01-2019, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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In an effort to elaborate on what didn't work out (besides the fact it's not how I wanted it to work), I thought I would show some things to look for if you're fine with the fact of the rotor fitting on the back side of the hub.

You can see in my pictures that the rotors I bought will not fit onto the hubs. Mine are an aftermarket hubs and I don't have an original hub to try it on. I will say that the hole in the center of the rotor is ~3.250" so before ordering them, make sure they will fit on the shoulder on the back side of your hub.

Also, you will need longer studs and studs with a longer shoulder in order to press through the rotor and the hub...

Now to return these rotors...

Allen
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 66-151.jpg (420.0 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg 66-152.jpg (367.0 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg 66-153.jpg (334.8 KB, 5 views)

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Last edited by Turnall; 02-01-2019 at 10:29 AM.
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post #434 of 577 (permalink) Old 02-01-2019, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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On a brighter note, the heater is almost installed. Of course, the weather forecast is high 70's mid next week. I would have had a heater installed sooner if I would have known it would make the weather hit the 70's...

Allen
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post #435 of 577 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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The saga continues...I got the Street or Track brackets in. Very nice brackets I might add. All the hardware needed came with the brackets and they fit on the car as they should. GREAT!!

Well, that's where things took another turn for the worse. The aftermarket hubs I'm using fit too tight into the center of the brackets. Let me make it clear that this was a hub issue, not a bracket issue.

The only solution I had (besides buying a set of original hubs) was to hone out the bracket centers so the hub has room to turn without touching the bracket. Not a fun tasks and yes, I was bleeding when all was said and done. Have mentioned yet to just buy SorT's kits...

I didn't have a picture of what I'm talking about so I took one from a video I made. You can see where the hub goes through the bracket center is a close fit, again because these hubs have a bigger diameter shoulder than originals.

Allen
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