66 T Code - T is for Transformation - Page 3 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #31 of 577 (permalink) Old 04-02-2018, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by patrickstapler View Post
Mark abused his stock 289 crank at 7500RPM for several years with no problem. They all have a life span. If you want to play with the big boys, it’s going to cost you. Call Callies, Crower, or CA for the proper 289 rotating assembly. CA is only a reseller...probably of those two. Remember, NO stokers allowed. I asked Mark if he thought his original engine would still be running had he invested in a forged rotating assembly up front and he said yes. His stock 1M crank broke at the number 2 journal.
Those are high dollar cranks! Not sure I'm ready to drop that much coin. Do you think something like this Crankshaft would hold up? Also what about rods and pistons?

Thanks,

Allen

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Last edited by Turnall; 04-02-2018 at 10:46 AM.
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post #32 of 577 (permalink) Old 04-02-2018, 10:34 AM
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Kirk Racing outside of Birmingham came highly recommended to me from the South East NASA president for roll cage fabrication.
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Regards,
Patrick
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post #33 of 577 (permalink) Old 04-02-2018, 11:22 AM
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Yes, but that is a 302 crank.

Regards,
Patrick
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post #34 of 577 (permalink) Old 04-02-2018, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, but that is a 302 crank.
Yes, I knew it was but they don't list a 2.87 stroke. So, how about this...FORGED STEEL SAE 4340

Allen

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post #35 of 577 (permalink) Old 04-02-2018, 12:56 PM
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I tried calling them several years ago about that specific crank. Could never get them on the phone.

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Patrick
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post #36 of 577 (permalink) Old 04-02-2018, 06:21 PM
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Allen, sounds like a fun project. I saw your posts about the heads. Are you trying to build within specific class restrictions? I'm building a '67 hardtop T/A clone for some vintage Mexican tarmac rallies. I'm staying mostly vintage correct, but have updated a few things based on what rules allow: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...-ii-clone.html.

Anyway, I just got my engine back from the machine shop and the last few parts are arriving today and tomorrow. It sounds like you're doing something similar with your engine. I had to deck the block and mill about .042" off the heads to get decent compression with the 289 crankshaft. I ended up just going with a stock 289 crankshaft and polished rods. ARP main studs and ARP2000 rodbolts. We'll see how well it holds together...
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post #37 of 577 (permalink) Old 04-02-2018, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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Allen, sounds like a fun project. I saw your posts about the heads. Are you trying to build within specific class restrictions? I'm building a '67 hardtop T/A clone for some vintage Mexican tarmac rallies. I'm staying mostly vintage correct, but have updated a few things based on what rules allow: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...-ii-clone.html.

Anyway, I just got my engine back from the machine shop and the last few parts are arriving today and tomorrow. It sounds like you're doing something similar with your engine. I had to deck the block and mill about .042" off the heads to get decent compression with the 289 crankshaft. I ended up just going with a stock 289 crankshaft and polished rods. ARP main studs and ARP2000 rodbolts. We'll see how well it holds together...
I'll check your thread @gikort. To start off, I've seen SCCA (I think @dobrostang @2nd 66 and @Huskinhano all run this) has an event near me that I want to go see this weekend. I also see what @silverblueBP is running (not sure of the rules in my state are but I think that is NASA sanctioned?). Help me out @patrickstapler.

I want to build the car to where I can run either of these. Now will it materialize, time will tell and I ain't gettin' no younger...

Allen

My build thread: Allen's Build Thread

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Last edited by Turnall; 04-02-2018 at 08:16 PM.
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post #38 of 577 (permalink) Old 04-02-2018, 08:20 PM
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at least for me SCCA CAM T is the best bang for the buck. Unless you happen to get lucky like dobrostang and get invited to be an instructor for HPDE
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post #39 of 577 (permalink) Old 04-02-2018, 08:57 PM
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I'll check your thread @gikort. To start off, I've seen SCCA (I think @dobrostang @2nd 66 and @Huskinhano all run this) has an event near me that I want to go see this weekend. I also see what @silverblueBP is running (not sure of the rules in my state are but I think that is NASA sanctioned?). Help me out @patrickstapler.

I want to build the car to where I can run either of these. Now will it materialize, time will tell and I ain't gettin' no younger...

Allen
We have both NASA and SCCA sanctioned events. We also have HPDE events that are much less rules oriented with respect the vintage aspect. These are more "open" track events. The best I have seen to date is Just Track It...Track days - drive your car at the top Southeast tracks..

Regards,
Patrick
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post #40 of 577 (permalink) Old 04-03-2018, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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I wonder how long this timing chain and original plastic timing gear would last at 7k?!?

Thanks for the link Patrick.

Allen
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post #41 of 577 (permalink) Old 04-04-2018, 07:36 PM
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Hmmm, where to start. Some things I've learned over the years about track days and racing (vintage).

Read every club's rules before you start spending money!

Get as much seat time as you can. Have fast racers ride with you, but make sure they drive the same type of setup as you do. A FWD driver will be useless if you have a RWD car.

Stock rods (no matter what you do to them have a short shelf life before they start to "stretch". Stock crank will last all day at 6,000, but 7,000+ is going to kill it sooner or later.
Lighten everything that you can and still be safe.
Stich weld every metal joint.
Put in a good radiator and new hoses. Buy or drill holes in the t-stat to let air through.
Roller perches
Adj strut rods
Get rid of rubber parts, except the trans mount.
Good shocks are not an option, but a requirement.
Roll/cut fender lips before painting!
Removable steering wheel or suffer the consequences.
If you go cheap on parts, THEY WILL BREAK...soon.
Ask lots of questions.
Lose the coil spring covers.
Use hood pins.
Put catch cans on the valve covers and the rear axle. Rebuild the toploader with good parts from David Kee.
Use Joe Gibbs/Driven MTF in said toploader.
Put a good locker in the rear. I've been very happy with the Detroit Tru Trac.
Put heim joints on the stock toploader shifter rods.
Make/buy a brace that mounts to the brake MC/firewall that goes to the shock tower.
Put the biggest brakes on that the rules allow. Run cooling ducts to them and use race pads/shoes and expensive DOT 4 fluid.
Switch to braided brake lines.
If you use regular roller rockers, just know that one day you'll upgrade to shaft rockers. Don't doubt me
Buy a trailer cause your car WILL break down at the track.
Get over having "pretty" paint. It's gonna get peppered all to hell.
You're not going to believe how fast you'll go through tires.
6pt or more cage and all the safety gear you can muster. Having your head pop off your neck or burning up is a terrible way to die.
Proper harness, 5-6pt camlocks are not that expensive.
A good seat that holds you in place and is properly attached to the rear main hoop.
Fire ext is a minimum, a system is better.
A coolshirt setup will make the day a lot more enjoyable.

You WILL have more fun and comradery than you can possibly imagine!

-Mark-

1966 Mustang 2+2


Last edited by silverblueBP; 04-05-2018 at 09:05 AM.
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post #42 of 577 (permalink) Old 04-04-2018, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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Hmmm, where to start. Some things I've learned over the years about track days and racing (vintage). Thank you for the advice!!

Read every club's rules before you start spending money! Will do.

Get as much seat time as you can. Have fast racers ride with you, but make sure they drive the same type of setup as you do. A FWD driver will be useless if you have a RWD car.Roger.

Stock rods (no matter what you do to them have a short shelf life before they start to "stretch". Stock crank will last all day at 6,000, but 7,000+ is going to kill it sooner or later. Looking at forged from RPM.
Lighten everything that you can and still be safe. May need a bit of guidance here.
Stich weld every metal joint. Wow...Ok.
Put in a good radiator and new hoses. Buy or drill holes in the t-stat to let air through. Roger that.
Roller perches Will do.
Adj strut rods Will do.
Get rid of rubber parts, except the trans mount. Will do.
Good shocks are not an option, but a requirement. Agreed, will go Bilstein.
Roll/cut fender lips before painting! Never thought about it, thanks.
Removable steering wheel or suffer the consequences. Never thought about it, thanks.
If you go cheap on parts, THEY WILL BREAK...soon. Understood.
Ask lots of questions. Get ready.
Lose the coil spring covers. ?
Use hood pins.Will do.
Put catch cans on the valve covers and the rear axle. Rebuild the toploader with good parts from David Kee. Will have to research.
Use Joe Gibbs/Driven MTF in said toploader. Will have to research.
Put a good locker in the rear. I've been very happy with the Detroit Tru Trac. Will have to research.
Put heim joints on the stock toploader shifter rods. Will have to research.
Make/buy a brace that mounts to the brake MC that goes to the ?
Put the biggest brakes on that the rules allow. Run cooling ducts to them and use race pads/shoes and expensive DOT 4 fluid. Roger. Will have to research.
Switch to braided brake lines. Will do.
If you use regular roller rockers, just know that one day you'll upgrade to shaft rockers. Don't doubt me Did you see the heads I bought? Not sure if they are shaft rockers or not but will find out.
Buy a trailer cause your car WILL break down at the track. Dammit man.
Get over having "pretty" paint. It's gonna get peppered all to hell. Already done...lol.
You're not going to believe how fast you'll go through tires. Never thought about it.
6pt or more cage and all the safety gear you can muster. Having your head pop off your neck or burning up is a terrible way to die. Pretty picture, thanks!! Will do.
Proper harness, 5-6pt camlocks are not that expensive. Roger.
A good seat that holds you in place and is properly attached to the rear main hoop. Roger.
Fire ext is a minimum, a system is better. Roger.
A coolshirt setup will make the day a lot more enjoyable. Never thought about it, thanks.

You WILL have more fun and comradery than you can possibly imagine!
Ahhh, the goal!!

Thanks Mark, not only for the help so far, but the advice to come.

Allen
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post #43 of 577 (permalink) Old 04-04-2018, 09:52 PM
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This is the firewall brace Mark is talking about...Hane Performance, LLC

Based on the pics you showed me of the heads, they are not shaft mount. A good set will cost you about $1200. An excellent set (like Mark runs) will be twice that.

Regards,
Patrick
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post #44 of 577 (permalink) Old 04-04-2018, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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This is the firewall brace Mark is talking about...Hane Performance, LLC

Based on the pics you showed me of the heads, they are not shaft mount. A good set will cost you about $1200. An excellent set (like Mark runs) will be twice that.
Boo...

Allen

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post #45 of 577 (permalink) Old 04-05-2018, 12:18 AM
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I wonder how long this timing chain and original plastic timing gear would last at 7k?!?

Thanks for the link Patrick.

Allen
maybe all the way to 5500
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