Vintage Mustang Forums banner

66 T Code - T is for Transformation / R Model Wanna’ B

124K views 1K replies 47 participants last post by  Turnall 
#1 · (Edited)
I have had this car for about 4 years. I had started to restore it to original. It's a plain as they come T code. Once I purchased the 66 GT, this car was put on the back burner, no, it wasn't on a burner at all. I am still working on the GT (see the thread link in my signature) but have decided to work on this car some as well. This is going to be s-l-o-w. I'm in no hurry and I have a bunch of parts I need.

The plan is to make this a 4 speed car with the look and feel of a road racer/track car. I want some HP under the hood but nothing ridiculous (if there is such a thing). Maybe in the neighborhood of 350hp, 4 speed toploader and 3.50 to 4.00 rear gears.

Here are some pictures of what I'm starting with. If you see or hear or know of any of the parts I'm going to need (especially on the cheap) feel free to let me know about them.
 

Attachments

See less See more
10
#25 ·
A couple of more...More plans are no heater, basically no frills whatsoever.
Looks good.

Depending on where you run it you may want to leave enough of the heater in for the defroster. Or make provisions for a minimal defroster. Even with moderate temps it can fog the windshield. Using Rain-X could help but it's no substitute for a defroster.
 
#5 ·
The GT looks like it has a normal 2 barrel "C" code 289...?????

All GT cars were either "A" codes or "K" codes..

:eek:)

Tony K.
 
#11 ·
Got a little done today. Talked to Dan @CHOCK (Chockostang) about some C60A spindles I had. He advised that they would work but I would need 67 tie rod ends. So I removed the T code springs, spindles and steering components. I installed the spindles and looking forward to getting the GT springs from @Caper50.

Progress is progress.

Still no word from @NEFaurora as to why he thinks my GT is a "C" code engine.

Allen
 

Attachments

#13 ·
I heard from Carol at Chockostang today as well. They received my steering box on Saturday and Dan got right on it first thing Monday. It was shipped back to me today. How’s that for service? They are excellent to deal with.
I sent my steering box for the GT to them as well, also bought my power steering components from them (all of the components). Great folks!! I think I made him jealous when I told him the weather we're having in South Alabama...lol. Again just genuine great people. Carol let me know right quick she didn't have a clue (and neither did I) but that Dan would.

Allen
 
#15 · (Edited)
Decided to take apart the engine that came in the GT when I bought it. It was not a correct dated 289 is why I built another engine for it. I found some interesting (to me) numbers on this engine.

The block only has __AE __15-B 7M (It does have 7M19 on the tab in front of the drivers cylinder head).
The heads are date coded 7M6 and 7M18 with 289 on the heads.
The block has 302 in the valley.
The engine tag has M19 as well and shows it as a 68 2bbl engine.
The intake has obviously been replaced.
All of the cylinder bores on the passenger side are reading 4.00x (highest x is 3). I don't have the drivers head off at the moment.

I guess this was one of the last 289's and seems to be all still together outside of the intake.

This engine just may be a good candidate for this car...

Allen
 

Attachments

#26 · (Edited)
Ok. This 289. I'm going to be looking at turning some high rpm's. I love the way, @silverblueBP, Mark's engine sounds at 7k rpm's. I know what, @patrickstapler, Patricks engine sounds like. I want to build this engine to spin at least as well as Patrick's but not sure I'm ready to drop the coin that Mark has. I need bottom end advice. I have what appears to be a good 289 crankshaft but need to know what to do to the bottom end to make it hold up to the rpm range I'm thinking of.

Any advice is welcome...

Thanks,

Allen
 
#29 ·
Mark abused his stock 289 crank at 7500RPM for several years with no problem. They all have a life span. If you want to play with the big boys, it’s going to cost you. Call Callies, Crower, or CA for the proper 289 rotating assembly. CA is only a reseller...probably of those two. Remember, NO stokers allowed. I asked Mark if he thought his original engine would still be running had he invested in a forged rotating assembly up front and he said yes. His stock 1M crank broke at the number 2 journal.
 
#36 ·
Allen, sounds like a fun project. I saw your posts about the heads. Are you trying to build within specific class restrictions? I'm building a '67 hardtop T/A clone for some vintage Mexican tarmac rallies. I'm staying mostly vintage correct, but have updated a few things based on what rules allow: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/build-forum/1105105-1967-t-group-ii-clone.html.

Anyway, I just got my engine back from the machine shop and the last few parts are arriving today and tomorrow. It sounds like you're doing something similar with your engine. I had to deck the block and mill about .042" off the heads to get decent compression with the 289 crankshaft. I ended up just going with a stock 289 crankshaft and polished rods. ARP main studs and ARP2000 rodbolts. We'll see how well it holds together...
 
#37 · (Edited)
I'll check your thread @gikort. To start off, I've seen SCCA (I think @dobrostang @2nd 66 and @Huskinhano all run this) has an event near me that I want to go see this weekend. I also see what @silverblueBP is running (not sure of the rules in my state are but I think that is NASA sanctioned?). Help me out @patrickstapler.

I want to build the car to where I can run either of these. Now will it materialize, time will tell and I ain't gettin' no younger...

Allen
 
#41 · (Edited)
Hmmm, where to start. Some things I've learned over the years about track days and racing (vintage).

Read every club's rules before you start spending money!

Get as much seat time as you can. Have fast racers ride with you, but make sure they drive the same type of setup as you do. A FWD driver will be useless if you have a RWD car.

Stock rods (no matter what you do to them have a short shelf life before they start to "stretch". Stock crank will last all day at 6,000, but 7,000+ is going to kill it sooner or later.
Lighten everything that you can and still be safe.
Stich weld every metal joint.
Put in a good radiator and new hoses. Buy or drill holes in the t-stat to let air through.
Roller perches
Adj strut rods
Get rid of rubber parts, except the trans mount.
Good shocks are not an option, but a requirement.
Roll/cut fender lips before painting!
Removable steering wheel or suffer the consequences.
If you go cheap on parts, THEY WILL BREAK...soon.
Ask lots of questions.
Lose the coil spring covers.
Use hood pins.
Put catch cans on the valve covers and the rear axle. Rebuild the toploader with good parts from David Kee.
Use Joe Gibbs/Driven MTF in said toploader.
Put a good locker in the rear. I've been very happy with the Detroit Tru Trac.
Put heim joints on the stock toploader shifter rods.
Make/buy a brace that mounts to the brake MC/firewall that goes to the shock tower.
Put the biggest brakes on that the rules allow. Run cooling ducts to them and use race pads/shoes and expensive DOT 4 fluid.
Switch to braided brake lines.
If you use regular roller rockers, just know that one day you'll upgrade to shaft rockers. Don't doubt me :)
Buy a trailer cause your car WILL break down at the track.
Get over having "pretty" paint. It's gonna get peppered all to hell.
You're not going to believe how fast you'll go through tires.
6pt or more cage and all the safety gear you can muster. Having your head pop off your neck or burning up is a terrible way to die.
Proper harness, 5-6pt camlocks are not that expensive.
A good seat that holds you in place and is properly attached to the rear main hoop.
Fire ext is a minimum, a system is better.
A coolshirt setup will make the day a lot more enjoyable.

You WILL have more fun and comradery than you can possibly imagine!
 
#42 ·
Hmmm, where to start. Some things I've learned over the years about track days and racing (vintage). Thank you for the advice!!

Read every club's rules before you start spending money! Will do.

Get as much seat time as you can. Have fast racers ride with you, but make sure they drive the same type of setup as you do. A FWD driver will be useless if you have a RWD car.Roger.

Stock rods (no matter what you do to them have a short shelf life before they start to "stretch". Stock crank will last all day at 6,000, but 7,000+ is going to kill it sooner or later. Looking at forged from RPM.
Lighten everything that you can and still be safe. May need a bit of guidance here.
Stich weld every metal joint. Wow...Ok.
Put in a good radiator and new hoses. Buy or drill holes in the t-stat to let air through. Roger that.
Roller perches Will do.
Adj strut rods Will do.
Get rid of rubber parts, except the trans mount. Will do.
Good shocks are not an option, but a requirement. Agreed, will go Bilstein.
Roll/cut fender lips before painting! Never thought about it, thanks.
Removable steering wheel or suffer the consequences. Never thought about it, thanks.
If you go cheap on parts, THEY WILL BREAK...soon. Understood.
Ask lots of questions. Get ready. :grin2:
Lose the coil spring covers. ?
Use hood pins.Will do.
Put catch cans on the valve covers and the rear axle. Rebuild the toploader with good parts from David Kee. Will have to research.
Use Joe Gibbs/Driven MTF in said toploader. Will have to research.
Put a good locker in the rear. I've been very happy with the Detroit Tru Trac. Will have to research.
Put heim joints on the stock toploader shifter rods. Will have to research.
Make/buy a brace that mounts to the brake MC that goes to the ?
Put the biggest brakes on that the rules allow. Run cooling ducts to them and use race pads/shoes and expensive DOT 4 fluid. Roger. Will have to research.
Switch to braided brake lines. Will do.
If you use regular roller rockers, just know that one day you'll upgrade to shaft rockers. Don't doubt me :) Did you see the heads I bought? Not sure if they are shaft rockers or not but will find out.
Buy a trailer cause your car WILL break down at the track. Dammit man.
Get over having "pretty" paint. It's gonna get peppered all to hell. Already done...lol.
You're not going to believe how fast you'll go through tires. Never thought about it.
6pt or more cage and all the safety gear you can muster. Having your head pop off your neck or burning up is a terrible way to die. Pretty picture, thanks!! Will do.
Proper harness, 5-6pt camlocks are not that expensive. Roger.
A good seat that holds you in place and is properly attached to the rear main hoop. Roger.
Fire ext is a minimum, a system is better. Roger.
A coolshirt setup will make the day a lot more enjoyable. Never thought about it, thanks.

You WILL have more fun and comradery than you can possibly imagine!
Ahhh, the goal!!

Thanks Mark, not only for the help so far, but the advice to come.

Allen
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top