The early mustang, 62 comet? - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #16 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-02-2018, 09:46 AM
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makes me miss my 65 Fairlane ,sigh


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post #17 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-05-2018, 08:26 AM Thread Starter
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So, don't get pans from that place. While I knew they were cheap and bent on a brake I figured they would need a bit of work to fit. They are a long way from "just a bit of work" and weld. A guy would honestly be better off starting with just a flat sheet. Even their own two parts (floor pan and toe board) that are supposed to mate up to each other don't. I should have known better.

Now it is not a total loss, I will be able to cut and bend and form the pans to work. The Comet is just a driver after all. Its not a concours restoration. I really just want the floor sealed up and welded to all the structure, unlike it is now.

Off to a good start!

Andy

68 Coupe about to be pulled from the cob webs.

65 Coupe 302 AOD - sold
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post #18 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-05-2018, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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I may have jumped the gun a bit on the pans. While they still aren't great I was able to get (at least the first one) to fit alright after quite a lot of bending and adjusting. I took some pics along the way, I'll post some in a bit, forgot the camera in the shop.

Some rust repair but not to bad. The bottom of the subframe at the joint to the front has some rust pinholes starting. Not much of a problem, I will replace it when I connect the subframes before welding the pans down.

Andy

68 Coupe about to be pulled from the cob webs.

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post #19 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-05-2018, 07:24 PM
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For the MII front end, rack and pinion steering, IFS, disc brakes, all new ball joints, tie rods, tie rod ends, brakes, ect. (stuff that needs to be replaced anyway) for under a grand. Plus I need the cross member/engine mounts for the 351 swap later on.
Whoís IFS are you using?

Ex-wife,....."You drove how far for that thing?"
Daughter,..."Theres no inside and it stinks."
Friend,......."Dude, thatís a rusted pile."
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post #20 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-05-2018, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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Whoís IFS are you using?


I have been on the fence with how I want to tackle that. I was pretty set on getting a cheap ebay kit and making it batter as I installed it and upgrade the components over time as I get extra spending cash. Then I started thinking maybe go with a better over all kit and spend more all at once, but it gets pretty pricey and some parts are questionable how much better they really are. Then my final thought (and the one I am leaning towards again) is just buy a better rack, decent control arms, spindles, brakes, and whatnot and build everything myself. This way I spend a happy medium, get better parts, but just waste more time which we won't talk about. lol

I am stretched pretty thin so my car funds are pretty low, everything I do is on a pretty tight budget.



I started in on the floor today. First cut and tear out, there was weld, bondo, fiberglass, seam sealer, rust, the whole bit.



Doesn't look to bad right?




Fiberglass held some panels together.


Some were held in with seam sealer.


But nothing was connecting the new pans to the subframe.



Andy

68 Coupe about to be pulled from the cob webs.

65 Coupe 302 AOD - sold
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post #21 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-05-2018, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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After all kinds of bending, tweaking, hammering, more bending I got the pan and toe board in place enough for a test fit.







Then I moved onto subframe connectors since now is the time, plus the stock rear part of the front section of the subframe has some rust holes.




Now I am off to take my son for ice cream.

Andy

68 Coupe about to be pulled from the cob webs.

65 Coupe 302 AOD - sold

Last edited by Snowseeker; 05-05-2018 at 09:17 PM.
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post #22 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-06-2018, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Got the subframe connector/replacement all welded up in the front end today. I found some rist in the rear corner so I will be making a patch panel for that yet. I am going to wait till I have the subframe connector installed on the passenger side before installing the floor pans. Mainly because I need to build a new cross member/trans support 'while I'm at it' haha.








I boxed in (mostly) the rear of the bigger subframe section, mainly so I could fully weld the box tube to the front subframe section.



I am going to finish up the small patch I cut out today on the driver rear. Then I will move on to the passenger side and get to the same point I am at now on the drivers side then start work on the cross member and trans mount. From what I see and read the AOD isn't much 'if any' longer than the C4 that is in the car now so I should be able to just match the mount to the C4 and it should be close enough for the AOD yes? Thats my plan unless someone has some insight they are willing to share?
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Andy

68 Coupe about to be pulled from the cob webs.

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post #23 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-06-2018, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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Would it be a bad idea to put a drain hole here, right at the joint, but threw the strap?


Andy

68 Coupe about to be pulled from the cob webs.

65 Coupe 302 AOD - sold
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post #24 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-06-2018, 11:15 PM
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I wouldn't put a drain there, nothing should get in but could if you open it up with a drain. Good looking welds by the way.

Allen

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post #25 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
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I wouldn't put a drain there, nothing should get in but could if you open it up with a drain. Good looking welds by the way.

Allen

Thanks! The reason I am thinking of the drain is the front section of the subframe isn't sealed up well. There are holes here and there and the front of the frame isn't completely welded shut. The factory subframe I replaced had "breather or drain" holes in it. While I will be welding up as many holes and joints as possible when I do the MII front end I still feel there may be ways moister can get in. If it does get in it can't get out and where I circled is the lowest point. I am not much for drilling holes in box frames especially if I know it is sealed up well. But this one I feel is not.

Andy

68 Coupe about to be pulled from the cob webs.

65 Coupe 302 AOD - sold
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post #26 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 03:14 PM
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Why don't you just seam seal where you doubt your welds. Will keep the water out.
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post #27 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-08-2018, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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Why don't you just seam seal where you doubt your welds. Will keep the water out.


Its not that I doubt my welds, what I am concerned about is ford never sealed up the front section of the subframe very well at all. Water getting into the front section will run down inside the frame to this spot (circled) and then have no way out.


After sleeping on it I think I will drill a 3/8" hole right at the joint threw the strap/plate. After I am done with all the welding I will shoot sealer into the frame threw the remaining holes (and new hole I made). Then later on when I do the MII front end and weld up as much as I can on the front section of the subframe I will assess again if the frame is sealed up enough to weld the hole I made shut and seal it all up for good.

But I still have time to change my mind as I only get weekends to work on my car, if even that.

Andy

68 Coupe about to be pulled from the cob webs.

65 Coupe 302 AOD - sold
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post #28 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-09-2018, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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I turned the car around to start on the other side. Even without the drivers side floor pan in I can tell the car is stiffer with just the connector and all I did was pull out of the shop, turn the car around, and back in. My yard outside the shop is uneven, any other time I turned around with this car in the yard I would hear creeks and pops out of it. It was silent this time. Exciting times! Chassis will finally hold up to that I6 powerhouse!

Andy

68 Coupe about to be pulled from the cob webs.

65 Coupe 302 AOD - sold
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post #29 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-12-2018, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Weekend is here!

Put in some good time today on the passenger side. I remember when putting the fenders on this car I had nothing to bolt the bottom to. Found out today the whole front of the rocker was gone. Only the inner piece of the rocker was there floppin in the wind. I cut back to a solid section and made up a replacement rocker section and finally patched over the whole deal with a single piece.





Still have the drill the inner hole for the fender bolt.



Its not anything beautiful but does the job right.


After I got the rocker boxed back up and welded I cut out the rest of the passenger floor. Had all the same bondo, fiberglass, seam sealer mix as we saw on the drivers side.




I'm not far away from going the other way now. Just have to get the connector in, cut out the trans tunnel and whats left of the trans cross member, than I can finally start putting stuff together!

Andy

68 Coupe about to be pulled from the cob webs.

65 Coupe 302 AOD - sold
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post #30 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-14-2018, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
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Got in some Noico 80mil sound deadening material. 10 1sq/ft pieces. Is it better to paint first then install the sound deadening or lay it right over the bare metal?

Have a week of real work now before I can get back to the car.

Andy

68 Coupe about to be pulled from the cob webs.

65 Coupe 302 AOD - sold
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