67 Coupe, Bringing it Back to a Driver - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 62 (permalink) Old 05-05-2018, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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67 Coupe, Bringing it Back to a Driver

After about 6 months I'm finally able to get the Mustang into the shop. A 67 Lime Gold Coupe bought at the release of the model year. Basic model, PS, no AC, 4 wheel drums, two tone lime gold/ black interior. It was a true secretary car used as a DD. The mother of one of my dad's high school friends was the original owner. She put about 54k on it until 1982 when he got it as part of an estate sale, house, furniture, whole kit and caboodle. Between 1982 and 2007 he put another 70k on it for a total of about 125k now. He was using it as a regular driver though not his only. Due to health it was parked in 07 with the intention of getting back to to driving it. But, well, life happened and it's set every since on stands. Now it's my turn to drive the car.

It's a true survivor that has had a respray from a rear end collision in 06. Heads were done in the mid/late 90s after the valve seats were toast from unleaded fuel. It's a San Jose C code smog pump and all with a C4. Still has a fair amount of it's original corporate blue paint on the engine. Camera down into the cylinders looks good, it hand turns over at the crank. I'll do a leak down in the morning. The short block is the only thing that hasn't been opened over the years.

Interior is either new (from 07) or has the parts from Cal Mustang ready for install except for the back seat which is still in good shape. During storage the steering wheel cracked. Sure would like to keep that original wheel. Electrically it's sound though field mice did eat some of the plug wires. A camera under the dash indicates that wiring it good, they didn't make it into the cabin. Body is in great California shape, minimal surface rust though the rear end repair leaves a lot to be desired. Some of it was done "half fast". A couple of chips indicate a bunch of mud on the rear quarters and deck lid. Paint looks pretty good considering, particularly for a driver. A So Cal chain collision shop did it.

First goal is get it to turn over and run using a fuel can. New plugs and Drake wires should be here in a few days. A bummer is fuel sat in the tank for 11 years. The tank was new from the rear end crash damage. Hopefully it's not too toast and can be resurrected. Same with the lines.

Goal is to refurb as many parts on car as possible even if it takes longer. Right now it will be a period correct driver. Not a DD but it will get some miles on it. Perhaps later a bit of a sleeper resto-mod but for now just get it back on the road.

This week, fluids, wires, plugs. Bring it to life running on a gas can. Would have done it yesterday but waiting on parts...

Complete fuel system refurb or replace, replace all engine bay belts and hoses. While I'm there make sure the trans doesn't leak and check the linkage. The shift into neutral isn't exactly precise in terms of handle movement though it is in neutral.

Give brakes and suspension a once over. Twice. It stops enough to get it on and off the trailer. Wheel cylinders, drums, flex lines and shoes were new when parked. The MC looks like a museum piece. Hard lines too. I'll at least rebuild it if the core is in good shape.

That should get me to being able to drive it. Like any other build we'll have to see what's unexpected. Once I'm on the road the under car, engine bay, etc will get a cleaning, bushings, paint/power coat. I'll R&R the engine and trans for that and do whatever I find on/in the engine and bring it back to corporate blue. I'll do an Arning drop then as well.

I want it to start, run, drive and stop in the next couple of weeks. We'll see...

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post #2 of 62 (permalink) Old 05-06-2018, 03:06 PM
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That’s a nice car! I’m in the same circumstance as you with my 67 stang. I got it back in January and it ran great with its I6 with the automatic 3speed but out of nowhere there must be a fuel problem or some kind of leak it won’t stay started any longer. So now I have to ditch the I6 and put in a blueprint ford 302ci engine and a 4 speed tranny with a Holley sniper EFI as well as updating the front suspension so that my fiancťe can finally have a reliable everyday driver which can start and go just like our modern cars today... I’m just having trouble knowing where to start and what items to buy for the motor and basically getting everything purchased for my mechanic to begin his work in a few months... it’s my fiancťe’s dream car, so she should be able to drive it everyday endlessly like we do our modern cars. I live here in Vegas and would love to be able to just hop in and take her for a ride to the farthest reaches our our states and back lol. I want it cross country reliable.
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post #3 of 62 (permalink) Old 05-06-2018, 03:18 PM
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If that was a 6 cylinder and the only option was an AM radio and rocker panel moldings, it would be my car's twin (in it's original configuration). Looks like I pretty unmolested car.

1967 Mustang w/ 302 4bbl - Build Thread
1967 Galaxie Wagon w/ 289 2bbl
1972 Honda CL350 - Parked since 1978 in a barn.
1976 Triumph Bonneville

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post #4 of 62 (permalink) Old 05-06-2018, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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He didn't do anything other than maintain it and fix the collision damage. The carb has been replaced, the radio was updated to a cassette in the 80s, new shocks 15 years or so ago. Still plenty rusty under the car but normal stuff like bolts/nuts, surface rust on suspension parts and wheels. No big cancer sized rust. When I decoded the door tag it's really a May 67 build not the original release as thought.

I was hoping to get the tank out and sus out the damage from the fuel and the lines. The battery still holds a slight charge on the charger but it's basically toast. The 15 year old Diehard I'm surprised held anything. I'll probably get an Interstate Mega so I can put the fake Autolite top on it and look period. For operation I'd like to use an Optima but it doesn't look the part.

I decided to drain the fuel. Gauge says I have half a tank. Looks like more from the borescope. I don't want to jack up the car at this point so I hit Harbor Freight for a low cost fluid transfer pump. They've been making some great strides in getting better quality tools there. This ain't one of them...

Less than a quart and the seals blow. To add insult to injury if you don't give them a phone number now at purchase you have to call an 800 number and get the exchange/refund. It was only 5 bucks. I was going to get a longer under hood light but with that I'll just get it off the truck. For five times the price but the service is fantastic. My other lights now are all from the truck and they are superb.

I also wanted some wheel chocks. I'm using wood because the set I have is keeping the off road truck project in the driveway. It's a roller but the brakes aren't in yet. It's been put on hiatus until the Mustang is at least a safe driver.

At HF...

Me: "Where do you keep the wheel chocks?"

HF: "Wheel chalk? Like for writing on tires?"

Me: "The rubber wedges for blocking tires, I thought they were where the trailer stuff is"

HF: puzzled look, calls someone

Turns out they are out, lots of things picked through looks like a busy weekend. I resisted the urge to then asked where they kept the chalk.

After I syphoned a few gallons into a pan into my waste drum (a gallon at a time, that's how big the pan was) the smell and taste of rank gas got the better of me and I jacked up the car enough to get a 5 gal dump can under it.

I get to 10 or 11 gallons and there is still more. Perhaps the sender is a bit fuel logged and that 1/2 tank isn't really 1/2. It looks like they put the original sender in the "new" tank (that's really 12 years old at this point) I have the original invoice from One Day and I see a tank but nothing else. Looks old. Probably is. I've got enough drained that I can see the bottom. The shots from the borescope don't do the damage justice. Not a good sign...

I got a light into the neck to get a better shot for the post. I could tell from the borescope it wasn't going to end well. It's flakey and moves around, you can scrub it with the tip of a screwdriver. I've used the POR15 tank reconditioners but in this case the tank itself is only about $20 more than the kit. I still need at least the neck filler to tank boot and possibly a sender.

I'll finish getting the tank out in the morning and start checking the lines. The plug wires will hopefully ship tomorrow from Vegas so it will only be a day or so. I've still have oil, coolant, diff lube and trans fluid. The P/S is leaking considerably since there's been some steering input. All the stuff that's salvagable and rebuildable will be done. Don't think the tank and fuel lines are going to be at this point. I was expecting the tank and likely the lines. I wasn't expecting the steering rack. We'll see. Remember the comment of unexpected things in the project? Welp, this is it. And not the last either.
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post #5 of 62 (permalink) Old 05-08-2018, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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It'll buff out...

Yep, sender is toast. That explains the reading issues. Not only was there no float, the arm was stuck in one position. The collision shop of years back didn't replace the tank as thought. It's the original tank and sender. They also didn't use the right screws for the filler neck to rear panel, use sealer when the tank was reinstalled and didn't use a filler neck gasket. They did paint some sort undercoating on the tank. It neither matched the color of the rest of the car even accounting for age and wasn't the same texture. Made it look somewhat new from the bottom of the car. It's the same as they used in the collision damage area under carriage so I don't think they were trying to pull a fast one. No tank on the invoice either.

The tank is salvageable. I'm on the second step of a three step process. First rinse with methylene chloride. It's the active ingredient in Ben17 paint/power coat stripper. You dunk it or brush on the paste form and even the most adhered powder will come off. Or paint, or any coating including ceramic engine or chassis paint. It's great. It's also nasty to work with. Full PPE. Doesn't treat rust though. That got the big chunks of gunk broken up and out. Tape up the orifices, swish it around, no BBs or hardware needed to break it free. https://www.bencosales.com/powder-co...ating-stripper

The next step is POR15 cleaner/degreaser. (used to be Marine Clean) It's basically lye and butoxyethanol. Not quite as nasty as you mix it with hot water from 1:1 to 5:1 but try not to get any on you. It's in the second soak now. It will etch the remaining surface rust as well as break down what's left of the fuel gunk. Once it's clean I'll convert what rust is left with a rust converter. The commercial products are largely the same active ingredients, tannic acid and butoxyethanol with some other acids to lower the ph to speed the conversion. Eastwood has a good one. I like it. At that point I'll water test it to make sure there are no pin hole leaks from treating the rust.

If you are going to buy the chemicals or if your tank is bad enough it can't be cleaned or has too many pin holes it's going to be cheaper in the long run to buy a base level repro tank. Unless you've got a rare candidate where you want to keep as many original parts no matter how you have to restore them. I have both Ben17 (and Ben15) as well as the rust converter. It's a standard thing for me to use. The POR15 cleaner I bought, about $9 at the local auto body/abrasive supply shop.

I'm at the first "might as well do it while I'm there now" moments. But I'm going to resist the urge to do it. For now. The urge is to go ahead and paint the trunk. As a bonus my tank dampening mat and the original plaid trunk liner are in fantastic shape. For this my first choice is Deltron DBI, the PPG paint for underbody and interiors. Single stage, matte finish, don't have to clear it. Though for about half the price I can do it in a single stage TCP Global urethane.

The plug wires will be here tomorrow. Change the fluids, rustle up a battery and I should be good to go to get it started. The brakes look good, they'll need new fluid and a bleed. Once it starts, runs, drives, stops I can get it the 8 miles or so to the DMV for a VIN inspection.
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post #6 of 62 (permalink) Old 05-12-2018, 02:01 AM Thread Starter
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It's alive...

Running from a gas can. Needed a battery, wires, coil, plugs, points, condenser, cap and rotor. I didn't want to wait for the Pertronix so I went old school. I grew up on carbs and vac advance distributors. Initially I did plugs and wires. The plugs were pretty carboned and the field mice got to the wires. No spark though. Coil tested fine and I didn't want to test the secondary parts so I just did a "parts dart" on the rest of it. The points looked to have been rusted together and all the other parts are consumables anyway. After that it fired right up. I was turning on the key so I could hook up the remote starter and see if I had spark and I pushed a bit to far and it caught and fired right up. I wasn't expecting it to fire but it did.

I prefer NAPA for OEM type replacement parts rather than one of the other chains. I do have a 24 hour Autozone about a mile away for the late night sessions. I got an Exide 24FX at Home Depot to save me the drive to Pahrump thanks to a tip in another thread. Eventually I'll get one of those fake Autolite tops and decals to give it that period feel. A new NPD generic sender/pickup is on the way. Tank will be good enough to use but will get replaced once I get everything up and running. It's clean enough to use now but has some aggressive rust in the upper corners of fill side of the tank. It's going to need to be coated so I'll just replace it a bit down the line.
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post #7 of 62 (permalink) Old 05-15-2018, 01:12 AM Thread Starter
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Here's how another fine day working on the car starts...

Car runs pretty well but has a bit of valve noise. Seems to be on #1 intake checking by ear and with a stethoscope. There is play between the push rod and lifter. Pulled the rod out and buffed it off to give it the roll test. Passed the roll test fine. Did the exercise of the top of the lifter, seems to hold pressure now. Fired it back up and no lifter noise. Throttle tested and the lifter tick came back. I really didn't want to go into the bottom end. We'll back burner that for now.

The throttle linkage assembly is pretty well worn. When I got in the driver's seat to give a few revs and imagine what it's going to be like cruising down the road as soon as I finish I noticed there wasn't enough pedal travel to rev the engine fully.

It's supposed to spec at 4"-4-1/2". This, well, is not. It's pretty 50 plus years of rust. The reason the idle was so high was the linkage wasn't returning flush against the dashpot. When returned to the proper off throttle position it more or less purrs. Particularly after 11 years on blocks. With a valve tick in #1.

Another peeling of the onion. I can restore the accelerator links, just need some of the grommets, springs and washers. Kickdown too. I'll take all the metal parts down to bare metal and power coat them. The black is easy enough for the pedal link but I'm still trying to decide something for the linkage rod. Perhaps a natural type metal color. Dashpot needs a spring so I'll start trolling around here to see what my options are. Between our local industrial hardware/machine shop supply joint McFadden-Dale and McMaster-Carr I can just about get any kind of spring (or other hardware) I need. Would be nice to get "the one" for the dashpot. Checked Champion, they don't have it. Or CJ or NPD. Or one of them had it and I couldn't find it. Regardless, the throttle linkage project will be easy.

While it was running I got some heat images. The device isn't a contact thermometer but rather a thermal imager. It measures radiated heat fields rather than specific temps. This takes into account the ambient temp as well. So when it's 100* outside, like when I took these images, that's factored into the image. The benefit of the tool is to read the difference in heat signatures on different parts of the engine rather than getting a specific temp reading. Because the imager averages the heat field if you need more precise temps of parts you'll still need an IR thermometer. This is the front of the engine. There were some overheating issues prior to the car being parked. That lead to a 3 row radiator being installed. From running for 10 mins with these images it looks as expected. It's something I'll need to keep and eye on once I get the car back on the road.

Once the tank pickup/sender and linkage parts get here I'll be ready to put the tank back in and go for a road test. Hopefully I'll see them in the next couple of days.
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post #8 of 62 (permalink) Old 05-21-2018, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
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It runs, drives and mostly stops. The revamp of the ignition and cleaning of the tank got it back on the road. The tank came out better than I expected. With a bit more work I could coat it and use it. After soaking in my mixture for a couple of days, draining then letting it sit outside for a couple of almost 100* days the remaining gunk balled up and was able to be vacuumed from the tank.

Other than the lifter it runs fairly well. Could use a carb tweak here and there but not bad for spraying with carb cleaner after 11 years and cleaning out the fuel system. Refurbed the accelerator linkage with new parts as well as the kick down. Got the Mannel engine book for the historical perspective to get it back to having the correct parts.

Started collecting original parts for the A/C. Can't really enjoy a car too much in the summer here without A/C. Rather than put a Classic Air or like system in I've decided to get the stock parts and refurb them or get repros. I've got the entire blower assembly. Works great, a little worn looking but after 50 plus year not too bad considering. Just like it's owner. Next will be the hunt for the heater box/evaporator assembly then the condenser and pump. A/C won't be done for this summer. Too much basic mechanical for reliability before I start that.

The initial plan was to get the brakes working well enough to get on the road. Once I got into it and saw that it didn't have the correct master cylinder for manual drum/drum and the condition of some of the lines and the pressure differential I've made another "while I'm here" decisions. It's also the first "wow those are hard to get and expensive" moments. The pressure differential switch was broken off. It's the 67 single pin switch. Looks like that's the only year they used that particular switch. NOS is $125 and reconditioned is $45. If you can find them. I've found one of each. The manifold/distribution block for the pressure differential switch needs a rebuild as well. Those parts are easy to find, two seals and a crush washer. The piston is stuck toward the inside. I'm going to make an air fitting and plug the other holes and see if I can blow it out. It's soaking in Berryman's right now trying to loosen it up. Otherwise it's drill a hole, use a pin punch to get it out and fill the hole by TIG welding the brass and resurfacing that side of the manifold.

Not the right master cylinder...

Got a choice of air cleaner assemblies. The standard corporate blue and another that's gold with a 289 4v sticker. I'm not sure the gold one is a 67, looks like it could be more like a 65 with a repro decal. My understanding is that after 65 the engine colors were standardized. Either way I'll get the one that fits the year and paint it the appropriate color. The gold one has a new air filter and either a repro or NOS breather with the decal stashed inside the assembly.

Brakes don't look too bad. Rears look better. Looks like newish hardware, shoes are good, the movement of the mechanicals are good, seals on the wheel cylinder look good, no leaks. It stopped but way soft pedal. I could lock them but the pedal was almost to the floor. The fluid looked like Coca-Cola but sure didn't taste like it...

The front drums had rust in what looked like either water collecting or it was up that far in snow each winter for a decade. It was in a garage that was more like a carport to conform to the association's rules. It was in the sticks but they still had an HOA. Based on some of the other rust at that level particularly the front valence that it sat in snow for a while. Each year. I used some Scotchbrite to see if the worst of it was pitted too bad to turn. It wasn't bad. My engine machine shop doesn't do brake drums/rotors and recommended the local driveline/rear end shop. Didn't know they did brakes. They did a fantastic job, $39 for both.

I've started refurbing the lines (should have the other parts in a few days). I use Scotchbrite bristle Roloc on a 90* air die grinder to knock the big hunks off. Then I use Scotchbrite maroon and brake clean to finish it off. The insides are blown clean with my tank gunk mix and air. I check the pressure to make sure it's not clogged by putting 10 psi into the line and reading what comes out the other end.

Old school meets new school. I've been using a computer in the shop for the last 8-9 years. The last two builds I did and the daily I service didn't/don't have paper manuals at all.

Here's what the front suspension looks like now. After brakes it will be the steering. I'll drive it enough to get it registered then start in on the front suspension refurb. It will be a big one. Ball joints, bushings, knocking the gack off. I'm going to do my own roller spring perches. That's the kind of thing we do on race builds. I'll do the Arning drop and get a 1" bar. Other than that I won't do too much except for shocks.

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post #9 of 62 (permalink) Old 05-21-2018, 09:41 PM
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Great stuff! Does that bristle brush on the die grinder work fast? Looks like it works pretty well.

Careful with getting the jack stands to close to where the frame sweeps up. If the car slips back just an inch those jacks stands will squirt out. Just watching out for a guy.
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post #10 of 62 (permalink) Old 05-21-2018, 09:42 PM
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Hey vegas, why the Union 76 ball in your avatar?

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My go fast build thread: Go Fast Build Thread
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post #11 of 62 (permalink) Old 05-21-2018, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Snowseeker View Post
Great stuff! Does that bristle brush on the die grinder work fast? Looks like it works pretty well.

Careful with getting the jack stands to close to where the frame sweeps up. If the car slips back just an inch those jacks stands will squirt out. Just watching out for a guy.
The bristle brush works more or less like a wire wheel. It's a bit more expensive and they don't last quite as long but they don't shed like a wire cup or wheel. They are as aggressive as a wire wheel but less damage to the substrate. Another advantage is it's on a Roloc mount so I can change between media easily.

In that shot the rear was up on 12 ton stands under the rear axle. It's not going anywhere but appreciate the heads up.

Originally Posted by Turnall View Post
Hey vegas, why the Union 76 ball in your avatar?
I'm old...

I remember back when there was a ball. I found some on ebay a year or two ago.
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post #12 of 62 (permalink) Old 05-26-2018, 11:47 PM Thread Starter
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It's that time of year where it's getting hot. We've been kissing just below 100* outside making it just a bit warmer in the shop. It's past the time I can paint and do body work (the catalysts don't work properly at our summer temps). Paint and body are a long way away and I'll have two collision shop jobs to tweak on. One not so bad, the other a disaster of a rear quarter repair. Looks good from far. But far from good.

Time for the Portacool...

Finishing up on the brake system refresh it's pretty clear that the fluid had set for a long time. The chunks in the bottom of the large chamber on the master cylinder are coagulated brake fluid. That would be the chamber for front disc brakes. This is an all drum brake car.

A new Cardone from CJ and all is well. The hardest part of the job is contorting under the dash. Looks like a dash creeper is in the cards for me. This was the first of many, many times I'll need to be under the dash. I'll likely spring for a standard Whiteside instead of the tool truck designed and branded unit. My understanding is Whiteside makes the version for the tool truck. The tool truck version can go to 30", the standard is 24". The difference in price is almost $200.

All of the lines and interconnections have been flushed cleaned and reassembled. The lines held up surprisingly well over the years. The only pitting of note was where the rear main tube turned up into the engine compartment and in the rear from the junction to the left side wheel. Other than that no kinks, creases or crushed lines. The sprials on the rear lines need a bit different media to clean them, one where the profile is vertical to the rotation to fit into the nooks and crannies without taking to much of the base away. They make a Sctochbrite bristle in that config but I don't have any. By the time I got to it there was only an hour or so left to get to the local industrial hardware before the holiday weekend. And it's packed here on Memorial Day weekend. If it wasn't packed here we'd starve and I wouldn't be able to have such an expensive, time consuming hobby.

I have some 2" wire wheel discs that worked great on the line covers.

Here is the rear, cleaned, flushed and back together.

Everything is ready to go except the pressure differential valve/piping manifold. It's the brass block next to the master cylinder that distributes the fluid and alerts to changes in pressure on either side that could indicate failure. It's a mechanical switch that triggers an idiot light. Whomever did the last brake job apparently broke it and the switch port has been open for who knows how long. At least 11 years at this point.

Best I can tell that particular single conductor switch and the housing were used only in the 67 model with later years using a different two conductor until '79 or so according to parts references. I couldn't find any NOS or used switch blocks/manifold and only a couple switches correct for 67. You can make other years work or use fittings for distribution and forgo the warning light (if you can't tell half your brakes have failed you shouldn't be driving...).

The goal here is a historically correct representation of the car as it would have been a year or two after it was purchased. They won't pick me for Pebble, I'm not going to show at an MCA and Carini isn't going to show up at my barn. Mostly because I don't have a barn and I don't think he likes America muscle cars anyway.

That means rebuild the switch block. First up, get it out of the car. Easy enough. Next remove the plastic threads that were broken inside the block by scoring the edges of the plastic with a small chisel and using a large tip slotted screwdriver to turn it out. The plunger that activates the switch is stuck. I mean stuck. First I plug all the openings except on to inject air, 150 psi, into the housing to dislodge it.

Not even close. The air whistled right past the seals on the stuck piston. Now on to plan B. If at first you don't succeed try again. With a bigger hammer. I got out the air hammer and the new nylon tips I got not too long ago. This is a tool truck only thing as far as I can tell. The hammer bit uses interchangeable tips. They can be this plastic sort of nylon, steel or aluminum. I use them on the fabrication side to planish bodywork and like shaping or if I just need to hammer the heck out of something.

No go. Even after a few tries. Someone here at VMF suggested to someone else in another thread from long ago to drill it out. I can't use it as is and if it's stuck and I break it so what. So on to the drilling portion of the job. I got a drill size just a shade bigger than my skinniest pin punch, 3/32 or so, diagonaled the center of the block, chucked it in the drill press and went to town.

I give it a light but firm whack with the pin punch and a 16 oz ball peen dead blow. No move. Next a more decided whack with that same punch and a 24 oz straight ball peen. It took another almost robust shot to get the piston/pin out. It was cooked. The scars on the bottom of the piston are the punch marks from knocking it out.

A rebuild kit from NPD with the screw in stud to hold it in place while bleeding and we're good to go. Except for that hole in the end of the block.

In the thread where I got the drilling idea one of the suggestions was to use a plug and JB Weld. Like me that's pretty shade tree but I wanted something a bit cleaner. So I decided to tig weld it. Not that I'd never welded brass but I've welded plenty of other metals. Like Liewellyn Moss, "tig, mig, stick, all of it..."

With some tips from Welding Web and Jody at Welding Tips and Tricks on You Tube I figured that I'd need to use either aluminum bronze or silicon bronze as the filler metal. Like AL it will be hard to heat at first but once it is it will flow like a demon. I did a test run at 80 amps on some flat steel stock and the filler. Seemed OK. I was using lanthanated tungsten, argon and AC voltage on the welder. An 80 amp pass wasn't going to cut it. I tired a few more then pre heated the block for a few mins with a mapp gas torch. I then hit it with 150 amps and presto, it worked. It's an ugly bead, that's the nature of brass and it gasses off something fierce. But it works.

It will need some refinishing to bring it to a good look. I used 80 grit Roloc flap to knock the big chunks back and finished it with maroon Scotchbrite.

I've still got some cleanup to do in the block. There is a small nub that hangs down from the repair into the cavity. Probably won't impact performance but I'll grind it out with a ball cutting end mill then finish the cylinder cavity with 1000 grit around a drill almost the size of the bore. It will be like honing it. Between sticking the piston in there and the gassing out of the piece during the repair I'm sure it could use a good resurfacing.

If all goes well I should have a refurbished brake system on the car sometime Memorial Day.
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post #13 of 62 (permalink) Old 06-06-2018, 03:09 AM Thread Starter
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It's back on the road but still some work to do. I've got about 50 miles on it since the resurrection. Until it crapped out, coincidently in a Pep Boys parking lot but not the Pep Boys by the house. For this build I'm not using chain store parts but for fluids and such they're great. Appears to be a fuel/heatsink/vapor lock issue. I put the road service we got from Hagerty to good use. I got it back, cooled it off, primed the carb and it's back running. I'm taking some heat signatures in various states. It's fully into summer here. It was about 105* when it conked out. Timing is good, dead nuts on. Idle is a bit rough at times.

I got a VIN check at the DMV to change the title and register. They didn't like where the title release was signed (even though it's where CA says it should be...) but I got a movement permit for a month anyway. There is so much made here at VMF about the fender tag vs. door tag as the legal point of reference. As I pulled into the VIN inspection area I got out and went to open the hood. The inspector asked if I was having a mechanical issue. I said no that I was just opening the hood so she could see the fender stamp. She said NV recognizes the door tag as the legal VIN and use that for the check. I mentioned the Ford says the door tag isn't the legal VIN. She chuckled and replied that Ford doesn't get to decide what the state of Nevada uses to determine the correct VIN. She disappears with the pink slip and a couple of minutes later returns with the full registration history from California, decoded VIN and a pretty good description of what the car had when sold including the original purchase price.

The engine as a survivor buttoned up with a fully plumbed smog pump.

The car is in great shape. Needs some mechanical love and some aesthetic bits. If you look close you can tell the work was done over the years by two chain collision shops. I've got the original hub caps (those are the original steel wheels as well) but haven't put them back on yet.

Dash is good, pad is great. I've got new plastics and bezels and will install them after more of the mechanical is complete. I've also got door cards and a few other bits. Carpet is new but black so I've got to see what was originally in the car. My wife is riding herd on the interior including new heat/noise insulation and is working on other mechanical bits with me as well.

Original headliner, still in fantastic shape.

Rear seat is original, not too many people rode back there. The fronts were recovered about 20 years ago to new, stock condition and color.

It's a hoot to drive though more than 50 mph or so there is quite a bit of skating in the front end. Some of it is the 50 + year old Bendix style power steering. The alignment is whack though it doesn't look like bent parts but I'll know when I take them off to measure them. I've got all the seals and new idler for a steering rebuild. Asked Choko about a kit but he was on vacation and I wanted them before he got back. About $140 for the parts. Hopefully the tie rod ball joints are still usable. I'll test them and see. Haven't yet made a bushing list but they're well rotted, or "perished" as Edd China would say.

Before I tackle the steering I want to make sure I have this heat issue sorted. I'm also going to send an oil sample to Blackstone to be analyzed. The reports are fantastic. I wanted to get 100 miles or so on it then change oil, send the sample and cut the filter open to see what is inside it. If it checks out I'll not pop it open just yet but clean it, paint it and use it.
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post #14 of 62 (permalink) Old 06-09-2018, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
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So onto the cooling system. I was hoping to get into the steering and suspension but doesnít matter how it steers or handles if it wonít stay cool. First some basic cooling system troubleshooting. The system looks pretty hammered from the outside. First step is to run the car a few miles prior to overheating. You can tell because the engine starts to sputter during a stopped idle then carry on more or less normally once the car is in motion. First order of business is to get some thermal images.

Have a look-see at the fuel pump at temp. Iíd boiled the fuel but didnít overheat the engine when the car stranded me. Letís see how hot itís getting compared to other parts.

Not bad but letís look and make sure the radiator is flowing. Those dark spots indicate an obstruction. They show up as lower temperature because the coolant isnít getting there. There are a few of them but not so many that itís a major problem. Yet.

Letís check out the front of the intake manifold. Itís getting a little hot at the thermostat housing/outlet. Weíre going to want to look into that a bit more.

Check out about 5 oíclock from the center target position. Itís reading a good bit hotter than the rest. Could be an obstruction.

Hereís another shot. The difference is even more pronounced toward the bypass.

Iím wondering if that thermostat is working at all. Iím going to flush it with something I havenít used before but diesel guys swear by. I gave the thermostat a test and itís dead as a doornail. Rolling boil no open on a 180* thermostat. The flush went well, there was plenty of rust in there. Hopefully I got enough out that I can wait to tear into the block. I didnít save any thermal imaging after the flush but the gauge regeistered cooler and the heat signatures were more uniform particularly at the manifold outlet and top radiator hose.

Time to tear into it. I want to leave it in enough to fix this so I can drive it while Iím working on and diagnosing other issues. Otherwise Iíd just stab it out and tear it down.

Iím still adding to my SAE tool collection. Iím good on most metric things and what Iíve been working on over the years have been mostly metric or all metric. The hobby stock builds were usually from GM ďmetricsĒ from the early 80s. I didnít have SAE ratcheting combination wrenches or 3/8Ē drive crowfoots. The truck didnít have SAE crowfoots, only metric so that was a run to HF but I did score these off the truck. With a free vintage style bubble clock. I love that tool truck swag. Already using the hell out of the ratchets. The crowfoots are showing some wear on a particularly tough bolt elongated the drive end a bit but for $10Ö

Once weíve got it all openÖ

Iím expecting the worst from the water pump. What I could see with the borescope didnít look good. Fortunately that was the edge of a casting and not the impeller. I was almost shocked when I popped if off and found this.

Looks like someone rebuilt an existing core. I couldnít find the casting number in the Ford interchange so Iíd reckon itís an aftermarket casting with new guts.

Weíre on hold for a few days waiting for parts, mainly gaskets, thermostat, cap and shroud. Iíll put it back together and run some more tests. Iím also going to install a real temp gauge and sender using the plug hole on the manifold outlet.
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post #15 of 62 (permalink) Old 06-13-2018, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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The parts for the cooling system restoration have arrived. I've got an unexpected seized/stripped bolt head. Though I suppose most stripped bolt heads are unexpected. I tried everything, crowfoot, box, open end, flare nut. It's the bolt that attaches the thermostat/outlet to the intake manifold so it's somewhat of a bear to get to. So off comes the manifold. I'd forgotten how heavy a cast iron intake was.

The valley looks pretty good for a 50 + year old car. It's been off at least once before when the heads had new seats installed in the 90s. There are some powdered oil clumps in a could of places but otherwise it looks good. There are still some water jacket blockages but mostly they're clean or at least clean enough to use.

It needs a cleaning/buffing of the intake port face on the head to knock off the kack and left over gasket chunks. I'll block those ports with a rag while I'm doing it then vacuum out the bits. Though it all looks good I'll bust into the short block once I get some more done on the car and I'm able to have some fun driving it over the summer. I'll make it part of the engine bay rehab project after steering and suspension.

Here's this seized bolt with a stripped head. The paint pen mark was when I was trying to turn it to see if was turning or if I was stripping it. I was stripping it.

I picked up a set of Irwin stripped bolt removal sockets. About $30. I've got other stripped fastener removal tools but didn't have these though have used them before.

If you've not used them they have flutes cut into the socket that grab when you turn it the direction to loosen it. You set the socket with a couple of light raps with a hammer. Then spin it off as you would normally. I used a breaker bar but you can use a ratchet or impact.

If all goes well I should have it back together tomorrow afternoon sometime.
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