'65 T Code Fastback to R Model - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 12:48 AM Thread Starter
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'65 T Code Fastback to R Model

While my first post on VMF, not new to restorations or builds. My first stint with fast Fords was building a FFR Cobra from scratch, so re-working this car will be so much easier...

So after an almost 8 year hiatus from Fords, I'm back. This time I wanted something fun for the weekends but with a backseat so I can bring my 3 young sons out with me. After looking for months, I picked up this '65 Mustang Fastback recently as I was looking for a driver quality '65/'66 model that I could tinker with a bit but not totally have to restore. Plan is mostly street driving in SoCal with some light track use at some point and hopefully run some rallys and vintage races.

So with vintage racing in mind, I needed a car with a '60s powerplant and not a lot of modernization...here's what I found:

EXTERIOR
- Wimbleton While
- Bright Red Interior

ENGINE
- 1967 289 V8 engine, Bored .030 over
- stock heads rebuilt with hardened seats
- Edelbrock Performer 289 intake
- Edelbrock Performer 600cfm carb #1405 manual choke
- Edelbrock Performer cam & lifters
- Carter electric fuel pump
- 1966 style V8 Motor Mounts

IGNITION
- Pertronix Flamethrower billet distributor
- Pertronix Flamethrower II coil
- Ford Racing wires
- NGK u-groove plugs

UNDERHOOD
- Export brace
- Curved monte carlo bar
- New underhood wiring
- 4 row radiator
- overflow tank

EXHAUST
- Hedmann long tube headers
- Dynomax X-pipe
- Spintech mufflers

DRIVETRAIN
- '67 toploader 4-speed (was sourced from a Cougar)
- 8 inch V8 rear end, 3.25 ratio

SUSPENSION
- 620lb front coil springs
- GT rear leaf springs
- KYB shocks
- Heavy duty shackles w/poly bushings
- 1" front sway bar
- 3/4" rear sway bar
- American Racing 16" x7" polished torque thrust II's

BRAKES
- Granada front disc brakes
- Standard V8 rear drums
- Dual master cylinder
- Wilwood proportioning valve

INTERIOR
- LeCarra wood/aluminum steering wheel w/polished hub
- 2 speed wipers & window washer option
- Early 2 speed heater switch
- Autometer mechanical oil pres and water temp gauges
- Sunpro tach
- AM/FM cassette, 4x6 door speakers w/factory grills, rear 6x9 speakers in custom panel. Original panel not cut and also included.

LIGHTING
- Glass Delta headlights with H3 80/100 watt bulbs
- High output headlight relay system
- LED taillights w/electric flasher unit

So I think the direction will be leave as much "patina" as possible (or actually incorporate it along the way when painting some replaced parts) to go the old race car look.

After driving it for a couple weeks, and since the engine and suspension are already done, my plans include:
- convert interior to black from red...front seats still TBD
- black carpet...while R Models have no carpet, my plan is to keep for heat and noise reduction purposes
- Torque Thrust wheels...15x7" front and 15x8" rear with 225 front and 245 rear tires (rear rolled fenders)
- convert hood & front apron over to Shelby R fiberglass parts
- remove front & rear bumpers
- side exist exhaust straight pipe via manual cut-outs (track)...but keep mufflers but extend pipes out back (street)
- perhaps swap front fenders and trunk lid for fiberglass too
- rear & side windows converted to Plexiglas
- Shelby dash gauge pod
- replace side vents with Shelby window (street model) or just aluminum panel (R Model)
- larger 22 gallon fuel tank or perhaps even fuel cell
- roll bar (removable cross-brace)
- extra pair of vintage looking Cibie front driving lights
- Shelby stripes? (can't decide if yes or no)
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post #2 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
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post #4 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
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Photos...
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post #5 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 12:57 AM
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Whoa.....Mustang emblems are way...way off on both Front Fenders... Obviously noone bothered to reference a "Correct" car.... Car is nice otherwise though...

)

Tony K.



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post #6 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 12:57 AM Thread Starter
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post #7 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 02:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEFaurora View Post
Whoa.....Mustang emblems are way...way off on both Front Fenders... Obviously noone bothered to reference a "Correct" car.... Car is nice otherwise though...
Thanks Tony. Yes, like I said it's driver quality. While it's a solid, rust free CA car the front fenders were replaced over 20 years ago, so whoever installed the emblems took some liberties. If funds allow, and vintage racing rules too, I'd like to swap the front fenders for fiberglass ones anyway...slightly more tire clearance and it would lighten the car.

Truth be told, the emblems could be upside down or even missing. I'm not a "K Code" or "A Code" or "GT" or "all original" kind of guy. Never have understand the fuss over spending a ton of extra money for an authentic, numbers matching, option specific car. Which is why I went looking for a converted "T Code" car.

For the most part, I'll be researching and building up to G.T. 350 R specs...
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post #8 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 02:44 AM
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throw that worthless rear sway bar away and install a Maier Racing panard rod. it will corner way faster.
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post #9 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 08:43 AM
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Change the curved MC bar to a straight one. Agree about the rear bar and panhard.
When you say Vintage Racing, are you using that term generically or are you planning on really vintage racing it?


Mark
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-Mark-

1966 Mustang 2+2

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post #10 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 08:50 AM
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I also agree with the two previous posts and second Mark’s inquiry as to actual racing. You have a nice car, but it is a long way from being a vintage or any other type “race” car.

Regards,
Patrick
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post #11 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 08:52 AM
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Many times I wish I had bought a running driver and upgraded along the way. Looks like a great car.

There are a few of us Cobra guys here.


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Dan
Chapel Hill, NC
***PM me if you're close by and can lend a hand with my 65 Fastback project***
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post #12 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 09:36 AM
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Patina you say? I don't see much if any on your car, But hey , We have a thread for that https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/v...-mustangs.html
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post #13 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2nd 66 View Post
Patina you say? I don't see much if any on your car, But hey , We have a thread for that https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/v...-mustangs.html
Hey, my car has 15 yr old patina!

-Mark-

1966 Mustang 2+2

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post #14 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverblueBP View Post
Hey, my car has 15 yr old patina!
Ummmm...I’ve seen your car. You might want to reread this.

pa·ti·na
/pəˈtēnə/Submit
noun
a green or brown film on the surface of bronze or similar metals, produced by oxidation over a long period.
a gloss or sheen on wooden furniture produced by age and polishing.
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post #15 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input and suggestions on the suspension. Keep offering those ideas up. I'm still new to these old Mustangs and have a lot to learn.

The newer ignition and distributor cap won't allow for a straight Monte Carlo bar, hence the curved one. Now that you mention it, simple physics there cant be anywhere near the rigidity as straight one...so better than nothing but not great. I've seen other MC bars that have 4 attachment points and move the straight bar slightly forward.

As far as racing, I'd simply like to get it out on the track as well as run some rallys with it. I'm not expecting to be super competitive as I won't have the $$ high end parts (billet cranks, etc) or the time to go to the track every weekend. etc etc.

The car really is a ten footer. In those pics it was prepped to sell. Up close you'll see quite a bit of paint imperfections. Open the trunk and it's 50+ year old paint and all the wear and tear that comes with it. Look underside and it's original except for suspension and exhaust. Engine bay is clean, but below the heads there's built up dirt and grease.

Maybe "patina" isn't the right word (haven't looked at that other thread but I guess it's clear coated surface rust or simulated rust). That's not at all what I meant.

Guess what I mean is I won't be building a show piece. Unlike my Cobra, I'm not going to spend days trying to get perfect door panel gaps or precise hood alignment or painting the car to achieve 36"+ of gloss depth.

It'll be primarily bolt-on and go have fun.
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- Drew
  • '65 Shelby Cobra FFR #3928 (long gone...not forgotten)
  • '65 Mustang Fastback
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