Project daily driver: 1966 Coupe - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums
 41Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #16 of 110 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
wicked93gs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 838


Today I managed to get the driver-side riser out, cut down, and test fit...it too will need to be cleaned up and repainted before installation of course.

Tomorrow I plan on starting to cut out these horrid old floor pans and install the new ones that have come in(I am sure that process will take me several days, but after I finish all the interior metalwork will be done and I can sand, paint, and start rebuilding the interior of the car. It also leaves just the cowl and tailight panel for the final rust areas I have to deal with(I will leave the cowl until I pull the engine so I can access it easier)
wicked93gs is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #17 of 110 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 10:31 PM
Senior Member
 
665spd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: NW Florida
Posts: 257
Garage
Nice work! Can't wait to see the subframe and bracing install. I'll be watching!


Greg


It's just a little rust...

1966 secretary special originally 6cyl 3 spd coupe.(Goes to work twice a week)
5.0 SEFI complete from 1988 Mustang GT, world class T-5, 9 inch with 3.50 Trac Lok and Shelby style traction bars. Old Air A/C system.
Build thread:https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/b...5-0-resto.html

1969 Mach 1: 1000 miles (almost) to get it....in progress(slow)
https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/b...long-term.html
665spd is offline  
post #18 of 110 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
wicked93gs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 838
Quote:
Originally Posted by 665spd View Post
Nice work! Can't wait to see the subframe and bracing install. I'll be watching!


Greg
Pretty sure my Global West subframe connectors will be in today...but sadly I will have to put off that install until after the floorpans are installed. I would actually like to install them while the floorpans are out...but dont think I can actually do that due to the loss of chassis rigidity with missing pans. Its unfortunate because its likely the only way they could be installed without a lift...and I dont have access to a lift. Any suggestions on installing the things without a lift? Maybe I could drive the car up onto 4 ramps and bathe in some MIG welding slag while laying under the car?(I suppose I could use my TIG instead...but working a foot pedal while laying down is virtually impossible for me). Or maybe...just maybe I could find some place with a lift willing to rent me a bay for a day or two(tedious to move the car while its under construction though)
wicked93gs is online now  
 
post #19 of 110 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
wicked93gs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 838


Out with the old passenger side floorpan....



And in with the new one...at least for initial fitment. I do still have to cut the front of the pan back to the factory seam line. Tomorrow I will finish installing it and weld it all in...butt welded for the trans tunnel side, plug welded for the rocker and the front edge where it overlaps the floor-to-firewall extension(and frame rails of course)...as close to the way the factory did it as I am able. The old pan gave me surprisingly little trouble coming out.
wicked93gs is online now  
post #20 of 110 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 08:29 PM
Senior Member
 
665spd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: NW Florida
Posts: 257
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by wicked93gs View Post
Pretty sure my Global West subframe connectors will be in today...but sadly I will have to put off that install until after the floorpans are installed. I would actually like to install them while the floorpans are out...but dont think I can actually do that due to the loss of chassis rigidity with missing pans. Its unfortunate because its likely the only way they could be installed without a lift...and I dont have access to a lift. Any suggestions on installing the things without a lift? Maybe I could drive the car up onto 4 ramps and bathe in some MIG welding slag while laying under the car?(I suppose I could use my TIG instead...but working a foot pedal while laying down is virtually impossible for me). Or maybe...just maybe I could find some place with a lift willing to rent me a bay for a day or two(tedious to move the car while its under construction though)
Yeah. Unfortunately an alignment rack (drive on) is the ideal here. The 4 ramps is what I will do for all chassis welding for now.


It's just a little rust...

1966 secretary special originally 6cyl 3 spd coupe.(Goes to work twice a week)
5.0 SEFI complete from 1988 Mustang GT, world class T-5, 9 inch with 3.50 Trac Lok and Shelby style traction bars. Old Air A/C system.
Build thread:https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/b...5-0-resto.html

1969 Mach 1: 1000 miles (almost) to get it....in progress(slow)
https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/b...long-term.html
665spd is offline  
post #21 of 110 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
wicked93gs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 838




The passenger side pan going in...I made sure to include a shot from inside the rocker since for some reason I had a hell of a time finding a shot myself looking for a how-to



cut down seat riser cleaned up and going back in...I sprayed the area below with galvanizing compound(an easy stand-in for weld-through primer if you cant find weld through primer locally...actually has a higher zinc content anyway.



and a quick spray of whatever I had for paint just to keep the welds from rusting until I get back to actually sanding and painting(which I will probably do at the same time as the rest of the interior. I did have some trouble with the plug welds at first and had to go back and add more(which is why there are a crap-ton) but it was my own idiocy...had my welder settings completely wrong for plug welding and the penetration wasnt what I needed...all fixed now floor is in and feels solid again...tomorrow I will start on the driver side...which is actually in much worse shape.
image98 and Rowdy like this.

Last edited by wicked93gs; 06-22-2019 at 06:28 PM.
wicked93gs is online now  
post #22 of 110 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
wicked93gs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 838


Driver side rot cut out



New metal tacked in. All in all, it fits almost as well as the stock...except for the seatbelt anchor point being about 1/2" further back(not that that will make any practical difference). That being said....the stock pan didnt fit very well in the trans crossmember area...and neither did this one...had to "convince" it closer to that frame rail. In the end it now fits better than the stock piece that came out...at the cost of some dings. Good thing its under the carpet and this is just a driver.

Just have to weld it all up, grind the welds down, add the seat riser and I can call the floors done and move on to sanding and painting the interior...

Last edited by wicked93gs; 06-23-2019 at 05:05 PM.
wicked93gs is online now  
post #23 of 110 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
wicked93gs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 838




Yesterday's work. I finished all the plug/spot and butt welding for the pan and test fit the cut down driver side riser...not sure I am entirely happy with how it fits..I may move it back another 3/8" or so. I wish I could say I would finish it up today, but I doubt I will have enough time to grind down all the welds...let alone finish the riser...but I will try
wicked93gs is online now  
post #24 of 110 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
wicked93gs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 838


I didn't get much done today before the rain shut me down...but I did get the welds ground down at least...couldn't paint the bare metal though because of the rise in humidity...oh well, just need to fill a few misc pinholes on this side(mainly on the firewall panel), do a little bit of flange work and other misc welding, then I can temp paint it and call the floors done.

I also managed to get a vacuum up into one cowl, snake it across to the other cowl hood and break up the 50 years of mulch hiding up there...and while I still couldn't see the metal on top, I was able to feel it after getting all the mulch out...while the metal on the bottom looks good, the metal up top feels badly pitted. I was all set to kick that particular project down the road a bit, but if it feels that bad, chances are its worse, if its not leaking now, it will be soon...so I guess I am ordering at the least a new lower cowl, and more than likely the whole thing to replace.

In the meantime, while waiting for that nightmare to arrive...I guess up next I will be working on the taillight panel and the rear seat divider....if I run out of work to do while still waiting, I guess I will sand and prep/prime the interior metal back to the rear seat divider...or maybe I will just remove the cowl while I wait.

P.S. looking at the pic now I see I forgot to install the driver's seat belt anchor...so I guess that adds about 15 minutes of work or so.

Last edited by wicked93gs; 06-27-2019 at 10:04 PM.
wicked93gs is online now  
post #25 of 110 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 10:27 PM
Senior Member
 
2nd 66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: New York
Posts: 9,547
Garage
not sure how I missed this thread ,Great color.


Brad
2nd 66 is online now  
post #26 of 110 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
wicked93gs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 838


Finished up the floor pans today, aside from just a few spots that may need attention later...which I can now kick down the road to when I am doing the cowl.

But, to my dismay, a "full length floor pan" is NOT full length:



This area would be covered by a one piece pan, but isn't by the pans I have...so since I dont think I have ever seen a patch for this area, I am reduced to cutting out a portion and hand fabbing the patches I need(also have to do the same for the radiused ledge of the trunk floor piece it sits on I guess.



The passenger side isn't nearly as bad...a lot less work I will have to do here...though likely I will do something very similar to what I plan for the driver side just to get ahead of whatever caused the rot over there. Its all good though...I was just thinking I didn't have a big enough weekend project...now I do. I will see if I have enough scrap metal from the portions I cut off the floor pans to make this work...I should(if I dont, I do still have an unused extension I guess I can cut up)

P.S. What in the world was the factory thinking, curling up the back edge of the floor like that? That is a sure moisture trap.

Last edited by wicked93gs; 06-28-2019 at 02:37 PM.
wicked93gs is online now  
post #27 of 110 (permalink) Old 06-29-2019, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
wicked93gs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 838
Well, today I decided to tackle the rust under the rear seat on the driver side...



Removing the old panel, drilling spot welds and marking where my cut will be.



cut cut cut away...careful though, the fuel line runs really close to the tunnel rear corner area



And its out...I rage cut my parking brake line for always being in my way...doesn't matter, its not going back in anyway(going with some custom handbrake setup)



Unfortunately they do not make patch panels for this area...no clue why



So I get to do my best to try to salvage them



I am really not happy with trying to salvage the things, but I have no real choice...anywhere there is even light pitting I am getting pinholes, spent way too much time filling pinholes and trying not to grind my welds too far down



This is not a recommended method...and I sure wouldn't have done it except I had to...in hindsight I would probably have been better off fabbing these from scratch, but I wanted to keep all the bead rolling from the factory. The triangular patch I welded from the back, trying to keep the grinding in the radius to a minimum...good idea, but didnt work worth anything in reality...ended up having to go back over the top anyway



Welded the lower shock mount radius ledge back in place



This one has some pretty ugly partially ground welds. I didnt want to grind them all the way because of how thin these pieces already were...I spent a long time filling pinholes...so I decided to deal with the ugly welds since they are under the back seat, and most of them are above the frame rail(though the bottom side I was actually able to grind a little closer). Its not pretty, but its a solid piece of sheet metal again(or as solid as they come that thin). I didnt weld this one in place yet...but it looks like it will fit back in with minimal trouble. Ugly, but it will do the trick...just unhappy I sent 8 hours on something that came out barely adequate.

Last edited by wicked93gs; 06-29-2019 at 06:31 PM.
wicked93gs is online now  
post #28 of 110 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
wicked93gs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 838


My dissatisfaction was for nothing, once welded back in, it looks fine(for a floorboard that will never be seen)...just have to grind this down and I can move on to the passenger side...though I have a lot less work over there and can do it differently.

Once the passenger side is done, that's all the rot in the interior...leaves just the cowl, the tailight panel, and possibly the radiator support(have to take a closer look there...if I have to replace it, I will use a 67 radiator support and battery tray fender apron so as to be able to run a slightly bigger radiator

Last edited by wicked93gs; 07-01-2019 at 05:58 PM.
wicked93gs is online now  
post #29 of 110 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
wicked93gs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 838


How the patch turned out in the end...not that it matters since I found they do sell the correct panel after all(I wasn't looking hard enough I guess) So I will be cutting this out and patching it again using a panel that isn't 50 years old, although I am sure I will need to find out how best to align the seat bracket on the new panel.
wicked93gs is online now  
post #30 of 110 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
wicked93gs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 838
Didn't do too much today...just pulled the engine, trans and front/back windshields to prep for the cowl removal which I will start tomorrow:



You can see the weld line from the installation of the extension panels I still need to clean up on this side before I install the engine(still not sure I am bothering to put the I6 back in, even temporarily since I will just have to pull it again to swap to a 302 later)



I did find this concerning bit of rust though..obviously I am going to have to rebuild at least part of the top firewall lip...hopefully there will be enough left to work off of without causing issues.


P.S. In other news, it seems I am going to have to replace the front frame crossmember the radiator support sits on(its starting to rot away, and considering that the strut rod brackets attach there, its a critical piece) as well as the radiator support and the front fender aprons on both sides(they were also badly patched by the previous owner)

Last edited by wicked93gs; 07-04-2019 at 03:49 PM.
wicked93gs is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome