Project daily driver: 1966 Coupe - Page 7 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #91 of 113 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Boring stuff today...didnt have much time, so I just ground down a lot of existing welds...last time it was 20 hours of body work for the engine bay alone...this time may be worse...luckily that is a task a ways down the road.

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post #92 of 113 (permalink) Old 09-08-2019, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I found an easy-ish way to lift the mustang to install the Global West SFCs:



Took advantage of the forklift and a small pallet to get under the rear pumpkin.



Lifted the rear end, then the front end and put it on some scraps of Permatherm(essentially styrofoam sandwiched between 2 layers of aluminum with some i-beam like structure running through it...they say you could drive a truck over it....so I figured it would hold the stripped mustang for a couple hours)



Got the SFCs about halfway welded in before my Nemesis struck...ran out of welding gas...again...I expected it with this little 20cf bottle they gave me this last time around because they had run out of 75/25 40s and 80s. Oh well, it shut me down for the day...to be expected I guess, but at least they are solidly in place. Will finish welding them later...the Global West SFCs are within 3/16" of the floor pans at the closest point...they tuck up pretty tight.
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post #93 of 113 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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Well, the local Airgas was still out of welding gas till thursday, so I decided to start the next task on the list instead: The driver-side quarter panel.



Started stripping away the paint looking for spot welds...holy bondo sculpting batman! there has to be at least 3/16" of bondo here.



And it got worse, under the bondo...whoever patched this thing previously didnt even spot weld the lip back to the body...though they did run a screw at the bottom.



Even for the patch itself they thought that screws and bondo was an acceptable way to patch.



This portion was just screwed into the outer wheel housing. Looks like I get the headache of undoing a terrible patch...again. I should have the quarter out by the end of the day...and with luck also the inner and outer wheelhouses.
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post #94 of 113 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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Finally got the quarter off...what a mess that was



Where I left it at the end of the day. The wheelhouses arent actually that bad...but they are starting to go, which is a shame, it would be dead easy if it were just the quarter, but getting both inner and out wheelhouses out looks like its going to be a real pain.
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post #95 of 113 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
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Trying to figure out why photobucket is blurring out half my images. Evidently they didnt like my free account and when they changed a couple months back they first started watermarking everything...and then blurring...so I finally signed up for a paid account(fair enough, they are providing me a service) but for some reason they dont retroactively apply this to already linked photos...ugh, going to have to complain to their customer service...I am NOT going to re-upload and re-link everything.

Last edited by wicked93gs; 09-10-2019 at 03:49 PM.
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post #96 of 113 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 05:48 PM
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Very nice metal work. My Mom has those same 06 Mustang rims on her 65 Fastback. They look great. I think we had to go with 1.25" spacers all around for clearance otherwise the front upper control arms would rub. I like your unique approach of using 1.5" tubing for reinforcing the firewall and towers. With that V6, you will truly have a unique build and car. Keep up the good work!
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post #97 of 113 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Very nice metal work. My Mom has those same 06 Mustang rims on her 65 Fastback. They look great. I think we had to go with 1.25" spacers all around for clearance otherwise the front upper control arms would rub. I like your unique approach of using 1.5" tubing for reinforcing the firewall and towers. With that V6, you will truly have a unique build and car. Keep up the good work!
Thanks...the same day I got the wheels I actually picked up 2 sets of spacers...one at 1.5" and one at 1"...evidently the guy ran that combination with the late model mustang wheels that look like Torque Thrusts on a 67 coupe...so hoping I can get that to work as well..if not I can mill one down and add 1/4" more to the other....we will see what it looks like in the end.

As much as I would like to take credit for all the cowl bracing, I shamelessly copied others who have done similar things(Latoracing for one) but it all came about because Miata guys use what they call fender braces...which are bolt-on triangulated under fender braces tying together A pillar, rocker panel and shock tower areas and they claim it virtually eliminates cowl shake(a huge deal on any convertible)...this is a 3 dimensional version of that.

As for the V6, I have a question for you...I see you are a Coyote fan with your signature(I actually swapped a 4.6L DOHC Cobra engine in a previous 66 as well back before the Coyote existed) but I also see you are NOT a fan of the MT-82. I personally think that poor transmission gets an unfair reputation because of the poor remote shifter setup and huge amounts of abuse(T5s fail all the time under abuse but people still dont hate them like they do the MT-82). I plan on using the MT82 myself with the Cyclone 3.7L v6...I will of course address the poor remote shifter issues by making an external shifter bracket similar to the blowfish brackets(but different because I plan to take advantage of that particular remote shifter "weakness" to place the shifter exactly where I want it in the interior). Its also safe for me to use a MT82 behind the v6 even if I increased the power to 400 simply because it doesn't tear things up as much as the coyote and I don't do 1st gear 5000RPM clutch dumps anyway. In any case...my question to you on your Coyote swaps is if you had some detailed pictures of the t56 transmission tunnel clearance...the case of the T56 and the MT82 is fairly close to the same size and I am hoping to get away with not having to cut the tunnel itself(except for a new shifter hole maybe). In particular clearance a the top of the transmission since the MT82 has the stupid little bump that the remote shifter rod attaches to. My goal is to just trim down the transmission cross member support across the top of the tunnel without having to re-shape the entire thing and mess up carpeting
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post #98 of 113 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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Well, with some judicious cutting and a 22oz framing hammer when I got tired of it being stubborn I finally got the wheelhouse out...now to clean up all the misc areas so I can get the new wheelhouse in...fun stuff.



A fun little fact here...not sure what combination of chassis stiffening items this was...but I went to jack up the back of the car to remove the tire and the front wheel came off the ground BEFORE the rear wheel...so obviously I have succeeded in stiffening this thing up significantly...keep in mind this is with SFCs only half-welded...no rear driver-side quarter on the car...and the rear seat divider not yet installed...this thing has some stiffening yet to go before I am finished.
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post #99 of 113 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wicked93gs View Post
Thanks...the same day I got the wheels I actually picked up 2 sets of spacers...one at 1.5" and one at 1"...evidently the guy ran that combination with the late model mustang wheels that look like Torque Thrusts on a 67 coupe...so hoping I can get that to work as well..if not I can mill one down and add 1/4" more to the other....we will see what it looks like in the end.

As much as I would like to take credit for all the cowl bracing, I shamelessly copied others who have done similar things(Latoracing for one) but it all came about because Miata guys use what they call fender braces...which are bolt-on triangulated under fender braces tying together A pillar, rocker panel and shock tower areas and they claim it virtually eliminates cowl shake(a huge deal on any convertible)...this is a 3 dimensional version of that.

As for the V6, I have a question for you...I see you are a Coyote fan with your signature(I actually swapped a 4.6L DOHC Cobra engine in a previous 66 as well back before the Coyote existed) but I also see you are NOT a fan of the MT-82. I personally think that poor transmission gets an unfair reputation because of the poor remote shifter setup and huge amounts of abuse(T5s fail all the time under abuse but people still dont hate them like they do the MT-82). I plan on using the MT82 myself with the Cyclone 3.7L v6...I will of course address the poor remote shifter issues by making an external shifter bracket similar to the blowfish brackets(but different because I plan to take advantage of that particular remote shifter "weakness" to place the shifter exactly where I want it in the interior). Its also safe for me to use a MT82 behind the v6 even if I increased the power to 400 simply because it doesn't tear things up as much as the coyote and I don't do 1st gear 5000RPM clutch dumps anyway. In any case...my question to you on your Coyote swaps is if you had some detailed pictures of the t56 transmission tunnel clearance...the case of the T56 and the MT82 is fairly close to the same size and I am hoping to get away with not having to cut the tunnel itself(except for a new shifter hole maybe). In particular clearance a the top of the transmission since the MT82 has the stupid little bump that the remote shifter rod attaches to. My goal is to just trim down the transmission cross member support across the top of the tunnel without having to re-shape the entire thing and mess up carpeting
I went with the Coyote for a couple of my projects since I love a good challenge. I primarily chose the T56 since I went with a new crate engine and the T56, is in my opinion the ultimate manual tranny of today in regards to performance for a minimal increase in cost. I have driven a MT-82 and I think its a the perfect tranny for your particular application. Like the T56 Magnum XL, the MT-82 shifter setup is designed for the late model chassis, which you are already aware of and I think the relocated shifter is a nice bonus once you overcome a couple of engineering hurdles. I think a V6 or Ecoboost 3.5 is perfect for a classic mustang in regards to performance, size, and weight. I have photographs posted in my 65 Fastback build, which only required me to notch the tunnel support along the top, which you mention doing. However, I should mention that every Coyote kit (TCI, Heidts, etc.) rests the engine at a different height and distance from the firewall so what works for my build (Heidts Pro G gen II, Coyote, T56) may not work for someone else. All of these kits have different K members, motor mounts, steering kits. However, the V6 is much smaller than the Coyote so I imagine you should be able to fit your drivetrain combo without chopping up your firewall or tunnel if you get the engine low enough. I would recommend offsetting the removal of the tunnel support by designing your own transmission crossmember that attaches to the floor supports.



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post #100 of 113 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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The biggest limitation in dropping the 3.7L engine down(aside from the drag link...but I have a solution for that I have used on other project cars) is the fact that you can only trim a certain amount off the oil pan because the bottom of the transmission bellhousing dictates the lowest point unlike other tranmissions(a drawback of integral bellhousings). I guess in the end its no big deal to cut up the transmission tunnel...but the less I have to cut in that area the better off I am...certain aspects of the interior like carpet and console need to be considered there.
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post #101 of 113 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 03:14 PM
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Regarding the MT82 remote shifter, I know a guy locally that is cramming your same setup into a foxbody, and apparently MGW makes great shifters in a few different lengths to accommodate swaps. You may want to look into that.

Still loving this build.

The anvil of reality.
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post #102 of 113 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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Got the rest of the scraps off...still havent cleaned it up or re-welded the areas that need it yet.



but I did test fit the Dynacorn inner wheel housing. I have to say that out of all the replacement panels I have seen yet...this wheelhousing looks like it will be a perfect fit, with just very minor tweaking. I tried fitting the outer wheelhousing as well, but it looks like it will need some more convincing since it fits down inside the rocker, installing it with the trunk drop off in place might be a bit challenging.
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post #103 of 113 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Did the initial test fit of the outer wheel well today:











I get the feeling that the whole thing needs to rotate counter clockwise about an inch or so...but this wheelhousing wont allow that much movement without cutting the section that goes into the rocker...I guess thats par for the course though. With the inner wheel housing fitting so well I knew the outer wheelhouse couldn't possibly be easy. Also...this outer wheelhouse isn't Dynacorn like the inner is
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post #104 of 113 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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Well, fooled around with alignment of the outer some more and got it looking better:



I did have to cut the panel where it dives into the rocker to do this though.







I am going to guess that I will have to cut this lower rear section where it meets the trunk drop off to fit inside the quarter if the outline from where the original quarter sat is any indication. I think I also need to rotate the inner wheel housing about 3/8" clockwise as well based on the location of the seat bracket on the OEM passenger side one still in place. Anyway, maybe these pictures will help someone else attempting to align these most recalcitrant panels.
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post #105 of 113 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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Welding in the inner wheelhouse after I determined final placement. I dont know what the standard for plug welding is, but I like a 1.5" spread...gives just a little bit more rigidity than the factory...the funny thing is, this particular area was the roughest factory spot-welded area I have seen yet...these rosette welds are certain to come out better than the ultra-wavy factory wheelhousing was
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