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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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I am repairing some bad floor work and a rusted and failed subframe. the rockers on the car have 55in between them at the back and 54 at the front. the center of the floor on the front is gone and the doors sat crooked. Are the rockers parallel. I think I need to spread the front to 55 before the fix. Am I correct?


I have the car body stripped on a tip over jig. No front subframe or inner fenders on the car. Those were swiss cheese. I dont think any care was paid to setting the body before the last floor job that the rusted frame was pushing up through.

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 10:34 AM
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Quick and dirty measurement without crawling under the car says 55" at the front of the doors near the kickpanel and 55" at the back of the doors near the quarter window, methodology as follows:

used visegrips to clamp a square to inner rocker panel, measured from the back side of the square(flush with rocker panel) across the car, then squared down to inner rocker on the other side...and came out with a rough 55" measurement +/- 1/8" due to rocker panel thickness.

I would think you could confirm this if putting in a one-piece floorpan
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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thank you wicked that is what i was looking for.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 08:03 PM
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I think I will go stretch a tape across mine and see what I have.



I'm doing some repair work on my passenger side outer rocker. It was particularly concerning at that area of the B pillar and that support bracket that is welded inside the rocker. I have some drag marks and a couple if indentations across the passenger floor pan under the seat platforms too so I have to pull those. The stud gun even with the big studs wouldn't pull those. I have another puller that I made for pulling frame rail dents that should work on this.



So I ran the tape across mine and it is just a nudge over 55" front and back but the exact same nudge. I think they are 1/16th wider than 55" nudges.


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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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when they replaced the floor they didn't weld it to the subframe and had 1 in steel blocks under the rear of the frame legs to fight the tenting floor. The front legs of subframe were plated over with 3 inch angle iron. With no repairs to the sections under the shock towers. the towers and frame there were really rusted. I jumped on the front frame member and it cracked and fell to the floor. with the suspension holding it together. I dont think the car has been on the road for the last 20-30 years. A michigan 6cyl that got some replacement steel in the 80s or 90s. It had a locked up 351 in it with the heads left off. It wasnt run though as there wasn't enough room for the exhaust manifolds and the 6cyl exhaust was still hanging there. Its my fun little budget build. probably going to go with a 302/t5 after I get the suspension and frame all set up.






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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 10:38 AM
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Good Lord, that is downright scary. You might have a bit of work on that one.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 12:50 PM
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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Good Lord, that is downright scary. You might have a bit of work on that one.



its not that bad. after the placement of the rails it will fall into place. it is a slow pace long term project. I didnt want to pay what a nice v8 mustang costs. so im going to pay that price over a few years. and do a ton of labor too. haha.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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I think that drawing is a inspectors sheet and only reflects a few measurements that would have been taken to determine that a finished car was within acceptable clearance. I dont find any of those measurements on the drawing to be accurate as they are written. I have used a tape measure a time or two. Now I do find the pinch of the rockers it displays to be of interest and the bad thing about that is that I will have to drag the doors out of the basement and mount them and get them to sit right I was planing on the porta power to match a wood bow I was going to cut to 55. the doors were pretty crooked and my car reflects the amount of pinch the drawing shows. That two owners above confirmed to be near parallel.



I find so many things off about that drawing. The length lines are drawn like electrical diagrams with bumps over intersecting lines. The distance between sub frames is measured at an angle and not show length wise to the car. and that line is on some odd plane with its bars pinched. And a ton of measurements for squaring that dont matter in the construction but might tell you alot after its together. say your building a garage 20x20 it matters more that the corner to corner measurements match each other than the product of Pythagorums therom 28.28427, because what if your sides are only 19feet 11 3/4 inches cause your helper didnt account for saw blade width. the numbers are all off by some amount(maybe for some unstated clearance). at least the ones I can check. The front frame rides lower than the rear and this isnt shown. I found my frame to be 32" wide the drawing says 34.5. Most of the holes that they use in the drawings were patched over or rusted off so I couldn't check those measurements.


Im not trying to give you a hard time but I found that drawing to be more of a hurt than a help after studying it since october of last year. I am taking my time and trying not to rush this process so I can have perfectly straight frame plumbed to my datum line.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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Got my prototype front half of full frame rail welded up yesterday 2.5x2.5x3/16. Im out of freebie steel and need to get a new 24 ft stick of it. About 150 after tax. I threw in a little different angle on the reinforcement box and plan to weld plate in there may do it inset to give a bone look or may go flat for easy clean up of welds. I used a plate of bar stock steel 8ftx10inx.5in as a mini frame jig table. Some wood blocks cut to measure to wedge the rails between boards that butted to the plates edge. I was worried about the slight bow and flex the plate had on the saw horses. But clamping that sqaure tube to it made it ultra rigid and it worked out great. Spotted it ground those flat flipped , clamped it, spotted it and ground those flat. then did the same thing for the finish welds.


the hole may look rough but its a single slice cut up the middle and folded away with some leeway in there for side to side movement. after frame is assembled and mounted the floor will be driven with a punch into something more neat and then welded to frame. all that rough stuff in the floor is coming off and getting replaced with something new. note the thickness and spiderweb of welds along the bottom of that rocker. the replacements appear to be galvanized. Because of the way that stuff smokes I will probably leave them be and caulk the gap closed. this one is too cheesed together to be a show car ever. that rough part of the floor is some of the sole remaining pieces of original car. Im really just surprised at the amount of repair work that went into this 6cyl car. all the trunk pan is a replacement. the rear rails are repop.

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 03:16 PM
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike657894 View Post
Got my prototype front half of full frame rail welded up yesterday 2.5x2.5x3/16. Im out of freebie steel and need to get a new 24 ft stick of it. About 150 after tax. I threw in a little different angle on the reinforcement box and plan to weld plate in there may do it inset to give a bone look or may go flat for easy clean up of welds. I used a plate of bar stock steel 8ftx10inx.5in as a mini frame jig table. Some wood blocks cut to measure to wedge the rails between boards that butted to the plates edge. I was worried about the slight bow and flex the plate had on the saw horses. But clamping that sqaure tube to it made it ultra rigid and it worked out great. Spotted it ground those flat flipped , clamped it, spotted it and ground those flat. then did the same thing for the finish welds.


the hole may look rough but its a single slice cut up the middle and folded away with some leeway in there for side to side movement. after frame is assembled and mounted the floor will be driven with a punch into something more neat and then welded to frame. all that rough stuff in the floor is coming off and getting replaced with something new. note the thickness and spiderweb of welds along the bottom of that rocker. the replacements appear to be galvanized. Because of the way that stuff smokes I will probably leave them be and caulk the gap closed. this one is too cheesed together to be a show car ever. that rough part of the floor is some of the sole remaining pieces of original car. Im really just surprised at the amount of repair work that went into this 6cyl car. all the trunk pan is a replacement. the rear rails are repop.
3/16" is pretty beefy....you could probably get away with with 1/8" unless you are putting in a 900lb engine(stock is less than 1/8") though overkill may be good if you are going with a MII type front suspension, or Griggs or something like that.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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thanks isreal!



its overkill but I want to be able to go big. I want to be able to let it sit in a field for 20 years and still be solid. I have a mustang II kit. And since I had 20ft of the 3/16 in the right size. the cost comes out about the same as 1/8.
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