1991 Eagle Talon - The Regal Eagle - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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1991 Eagle Talon - The Regal Eagle

Posted with permission of Israel...

I got my first Eagle Talon TSi AWD in 1999. It had been my dad's but he neglected the timing belt maintenance and the belt slipped and bent some valves. I took over the payments and dropped in a 30k mile Japanese Domestic Market "Cyclone" engine and transmission out of a Japanese spec Galant VR-4. A palate engine, in the parlance of our times. I had a lot of fun with this car. With $600 in modifications including a $200 used turbo, it consistently ran low 13s at Bandimere Speedway, which sees DAs of anywhere from 4000 to 9000ft. That was the most fun I ever had with a car and I've been chasing the dragon ever since. Unfortunately, one night after rushing to change the oil in the rain, I didn't notice that the oil filter was not sealed completely. In the downpour I did not notice the oil running down the driveway. I ended up hurting some bearings. I parted the car out and donated the shell. At that age I didn't have the means for another engine swap. It was devastating and wouldn't be the last time a Talon oil filter seal burned me (a lot of people wire the filters in place). Since then I've also owned a 92 Talon (oil filter seal blew out on the highway) and a 96 Talon (sold, the 2nd gens just aren't for me).

Why the Regal Eagle? Because this car was originally bought new by a 50ish-year-old man who took care of it and kept luxury items a lot of guys ripped out- cruise control, air conditioning, power steering. The interior is basically in unheard of condition with the seats being reupholstered once at great expense, it has the original tape and CD stereo system and a lot of odds and ends that go missing or break over time. The only modification I see other than the boost and wideband gauge is a second generation shift knob.

Why is it a project then? Well because at some point the original caught the performance buzz in a big way and had the disposable income to pull off a 708hp horsepower build. But that is too much for me. I want something in the sub-400hp range that I can hop into any time and drive.

Here's the list of parts I intend to swap:

PTE 6766 Turbo rated at 935hp TO MHI (Mitsubishi Heavy Industries) Evo III 16G rated at around 420hp
T4 Exhaust Header TO Forced Performance stock-style cast manifold
T4 Oxygen Sensor Housing and Downpipe TO stock-syle 2.5" O2 Sensor Housing and 3" Downpipe with 3" catalytic converter
GM MAF Translator and Chipped ECU TO ECMLink with built in GM MAF capabilities (for now, may switch to Evo 8 MAF later on)
1650cc Low Impedance Fuel Injectors TO Fuel Injector Clinic 1200cc High Impedance Fuel Injectors
Dual Walboro 255 Fuel Pumps TO Single Walboro 255 Fuel Pump
Coil on Plug Setup with Arc-2 CDi TO Stock ignition coil setup (appears someone already took the Arc-2 out, which is not good with a COP setup)
Ebay Bypass Valve TO TurboSmart Kompact 34mm (was going to switch to an Evo 9 or 10 bypass valve but these are actually more expensive than aftermarket)

Here's the list of parts (that I know of) that I intend to keep:

2.3L Engine (stock is 2.0)
Unknown brand Stage 4 racing cams (for now)
Kiggly Beehive Valve Springs
Kiggly Hydraulic Lash Adjuster Regulator
Enormous 5" thick Garrett Intercooler (not even sure how this fits but it does) and piping
Ridiculous clutch with 4-puck disc (for now)
JM Fabrications Sheet Metal Intake , racing version (for now)
3" Exhaust (I believe it's a Thermal R&D Exhaust)

Pretty much all the new parts are on the way!
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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Let the work begin!

After getting the car home last night I decided to get right to work.

The first order of business is to remove the existing turbo setup. Of course it's one of those deals where there's three basic parts and if you look at it at first it seems like, "well you can't get the manifold off if you don't take the wastegate off, and you can't take the wastegate off unless you take the turbo off, and you can't take the turbo off unless you take the manifold off." But eventually I was able to use the right combo of wobbly socket extenders under the manifold and get the back wastegate bolt off by using vice grips on the cap screw on the front of the wastegate (I need an actual metric hex key set rather than only sockets or the swiss army knife style I have now). That's as far as I got on the turbo setup. Need to get some more metric tools. I have a basic socket set or two and a wrench set but I'd like to get a set of long wrenches (for leverage) and ratcheting box-end wrenches in metric- things I already have in SAE.

I also spent a lot of time clipping zip-ties and getting reacquainted with the Talon wiring harness that I used to know by heart, and trying to figure out how the Arc-2 CDi was wired. Oh wait, it's not there, just an empty bracket above the cruise control, which I wouldn't even have recognized as an empty Arc-2 bracket if not for the internet. He must have had some issues with it and went back to the stock ignitor, which I simply do not trust with the Coil-on-Plug setup. I'm getting a box of parts today, hoping the stock coil pack is in there. They're good up to 500hp practically speaking, but have made more.

Anyone have any ideas what to do with a full tank of E85? At least this year has a drain plug in the fuel tank.
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1965 Mustang

Last edited by jdub; 09-04-2019 at 04:25 PM.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 05:54 PM
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You build it, Iíll follow.
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Ex-wife,....."You drove how far for that thing?"
Daughter,..."Theres no inside and it stinks."
Friend,......."Dude, thatís a rusted pile."
Son,.........."This old car is cool."

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Build Thread: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...sted-pile.html
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 06:26 PM
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Garage
Definitely following...


Sent from the interwebs

-Chris

'68 Mustang
347ci that has a lot of neat stuff in it
T5 manual trans, alum driveshaft, 9" w/3.70 gears
Suspension parts from SoT, Global West, Maier Racing, and a few others. Works for me!
TCP manual rack (love it)
EPAS (Love this the most)
VWW V45 wheels (like these too)
SoT 13" brakes (stopping is good)
And I finally got a paint job!
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 09:54 PM
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the fastest I have ever gone in a car in my life was in a plymouth laser 150mph the dash was shaking so bad and fast it looked like it was 8 inch thick. that one had big turbo custom fuel system it was my cousins and he was driving. ive rode in 10 of those cars. all very fun and fast. fastest ive driven a car was 130. 187 on a 02 gsxr 1000 a couple times.


ive been watching spectator drags and the dsm's are dominating when they show up.




I also bought a 500 buck galant off that same cousin and drove that thing only car on the highway back from 3rd shift job at 127mph a few times by the time I crushed it it would only do 119. great little car. had to take the work boots off to not push two pedals.

Last edited by mike657894; 09-04-2019 at 09:59 PM.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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I've been about 140 in one. They are, I believe, mathematically limited to 172MPH with the factory rev limiter and I know people have hit that before easily. These cars actually have an excellent drag coefficient, especially for the era, so they can actually get past the wind resistance.

I got the turbo off tonight.

I also took the COP setup, upper intercooler pipe, MAF sensor and blow-off valve off and didn't like what I saw underneath as far as the battery and the connections. It's kind of a rats nest, the battery is dropped down to the transmission mount (a sort of common mod these days) but it wasn't done up to my standards and is held down with a nylon strap. Not good. I'll be addressing this but it brings up a dilemma. Do I want to move the battery to the rear? I don't really at all. But this engine bay 10lbs of **** in a 5lb sack with all the accessories still in place, plus all the new stuff and the sheet metal intake which has none of the provisions for things like the coil pack, which in turn will have to go somewhere. I could go with one of those small batteries, been-there-done-that, but not thrilled with that idea either. Plus it just adds to the budget.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Today I got several boxes of parts. A lot of stock take-offs, which is nice. A few aftermarket parts from prior setups I can use, which is nicer. And a few items I can probably sell, which is really nice!

In the boxes was the stock intake manifold and battery try and hold down, plus some random intercooler pipes... considering just putting the stock intake on and moving the battery back to the OEM location. Then I'll try really hard to find some lower level cams since that will be the last "race" rated part on the car. If only Mustang parts came in levels like "street", "race" and "drag" or "stage 1", "stage 2" etc.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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So far I've been doing disassembly and gathering parts. I'm definitely going to switch back to the stock intake. This engine bay is so packed with all the accessories people normally rip out there's just not a good way or place to put the OEM coil pack EXCEPT the OEM manifold. The sheet metal intake won't be doing the Evo III 16G turbo setup any favors anyway. So I cleaned up the stock intake with Purple Power and carb cleaner. I also decided to go with a Civic/Miata/S2000 sized battery, the Group 51, and will make a battery tray and bracket like the one pictured. This battery is about 2/3 or less the size of the OEM battery but still with good CCA, unlike the racing batteries. It will be much more manageable down on the frame rail compared to the original battery. I can grab the 51 battery with one hand from the top.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 12:51 AM
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Heres your bump : ) But unrelated to your thread. My cousin who sold me my galant. Sends me an add yesterday for a galant 2500 chevy f150 300 lol. well I get to asking about the galant click on the profile see a 1700 old add. ask the guy 1700 to 300 whats up. it develouped a tick. more like a rod knock. but at 2000 rpm it disapeers?? Do you know what this is? I did a oil change filter and lucas. ANYWAY I BOUGHT IT FOR 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200







lol


Its got 175 k but drives like a dream needs some pads maybe a rotor . I would like to quiet it and sell it for 2k. but if the knock never goes away ill drive it. I already love it.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 03:24 AM Thread Starter
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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I've just been ordering stuff and cleaning and painting parts mostly. I've got the car apart enough to tackle refurbishing the wiring harness. I've got some new and used pigtails to solder in and I'll be addressing the odd fuel pump situation.

The PO had two fuel pumps, I probably mentioned that. One was a Walboro 255LPH HP and one was a knockoff Walboro. Interestingly he had it setup so that the Walboro ran all the time, then he had a Hobbs switch that activated the second pump at a certain boost level. He did this because he had the stock fuel lines which he believed would overrun the set pressure at idle and low loads if both pumps were running (I actually found an old post of his online that explains this). OK. Well I'm going back to a single Walboro 255 LPH HP pump (a new one, they're $89, may as well). The car has a 2ga power wire running from the engine bay to the rear of the car. It is overkill, but it's there. I'm going to put a 100 AMP mega fuse on that power wire by the battery and run it to a fused distribution block in back. Going to put a 20 amp fuse in the distribution block and some 10 or 8ga wire to the fuel pump relay.

In the meantime, I have my 4" intake pipe which I painted Duplicolor Low-Gloss Black and my Lancer Evolution VIII MAF Sensor with K&N almost ready to go (need one more t-bolt clamp for the MAF sensor and to install the clamp on the K&N).

The car came with an Ebay Compressor Bipass ("Blow Off") Valve. A 700hp car with a $30 Chinabay blow off valve- hooked up wrong, I might add. Normally you want the top of the valve hooked up on the engine side of the throttle body so when you close the throttle the engine goes to vacuum and helps pull the valve open. Well he had it hooked up so the line was before the throttle body meaning you close the throttle and the compressed air continues to hold the valve closed. The turbo was totally ****ed- mostly due to foreign object damage (probably- hopefully- a spark plug electrode but I'm already researching an engine rebuild) on the turbine but I am sure having a slow opening blow off valve didn't help. Anyway, I was trying to figure out what to do about the blow off valve. It had what is known as "Greddy Type-S" flange. I didn't want any sort of blow off valve with that flange but there are adapters. I flirted with getting a Lancer Evolution blow off valve with an adapter but then found a TurboSmart unit that was actually cheaper than the OEM valve. HOWEVER, I remembered I had an old already modified 1G DSM blow off valve from a past project on a shelf in my garage. It was painted black and silver so I stripped all the paint off and painted the top green to try and match the origial green coating they have from the factory. This blow off valve is identical to the Lancer Evo unit but has a flange instead of clamping onto a tube. I was able to get a Type-S-to-1G flange adapter from Amazon.

Here's some pics of those small projects (also received my NGK plug wires for when I got back to the stock ignition system)...
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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Here's some UPS porn...

Genuine (wish it didn't have to be said but Ebay has a fake version) Mitsubishi Heavy Industries Evo III 16G, approximately 42lbs/min. MHI makes some of the best turbos made as far as reliability. They aren't picky about oiling and they can take a beating. PTE turbos, which are common (almost ubiquitous) in motorsports, across multiple platforms, are ****ing garbage. They can make power but don't expect them to last 5000 miles. I couldn't get the PTE turbo that originally came with the car off there quick enough (first thing I did).

Forced Performance cast turbo manifold. Us 1G guys would upgrade to the 2G manifold until everyone found out about the Evo III manifold, and that became the go-to. Porting was common. The Forced Performance manifold available to us today means you don't have to track down one of the OEM ones.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-24-2019, 12:00 AM
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Nice stuff. So far so good. I remember those cars when they were new.

Matt
Brea, CA

1965 Mustang Coupe 289 a/t Build Thread
1967 Firebird 400 4sp
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