15yo with a ‘66 Stang Coupe... Need help! - Page 4 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #46 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by awhtx View Post

The bolts that attach the fan clutch to the water pump are 5/16"-24 bolts. Commonly called a "fine thread" vs. a 5/16"-18 thread which is a "coarse thread". Any hardware store or auto parts store will have them. You can buy them in many different lengths. Your are too long for your use. Somebody probably replaced a fan spacer and didn't get shorter bolts.
Ok thank you I’ll get some shorter ones when I can.

'66
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post #47 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dobrostang View Post
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Originally Posted by agungoll View Post
I may sound stupid but how do I check if she's overheating? The oil gauge? Sorry I don't know every specific detail. I try to be patient but efficient as well despite only having two months to get it running. Thanks again

There are no stupid questions, the same doesn't apply however to the answers you may get, but that is the nature of the internet. Your car came with a temperature gauge (TEMP C to H) and either an oil light or a oil pressure gauge (OIL L to H). These two indicators are your friends and you need to pay attention when you drive for if they tell you you have a problem, you have a very short period of time to get the car safely stopped and turned off before expensive things happen to your motor. Get in the habit of checking them regularly, especially in the early days of driving the car till you get some confidence in the car.


They should be roughly in the middle within a 1/4 of the gauge on either side of the center on a happy car e.g. 1/4 to 3/4. When they start heading for the extremes (except high oil pressure when the car is cold, that is normal and obviously if the TEMP is low on a cold car) you have an issue and the more extreme the reading the quicker you need to turn it off. If you have an oil light and it comes on - pull over as quickly as it is safe to do so and turn the motor off, you have no lubricant flowing through your motor - very bad juju!


Those bolts should work fine, as a vintage automobile craftsman, we/you would like to see them flush and not sticking through (good eye) but they will work as long as the fan spins freely and they do not hit anything.


Be careful as you use nuts and bolts, for a given size there will be coarse thread and fine thread and they do not interchange. NEVER Force a bolt or nut that doesn't want to go in. Make absolutely sure it is the correct thread, you can tell by looking. If you start a bolt slightly at an angle, you can "Cross thread" the hole and its a pain in the Asp to fix, it happens to all of us usually when we get in a hurry. We like it when a bolt or nut starts with the fingers easily moving to a wrench only after it is well started. Get yourself a good socket set US not Metric, you can never go wrong with Craftsman tools but cheap ones are better the none.



Keep up the good work, we like to see progress...
Thank you Awesome advice. I wasn’t sure so I just had to clarify. I tend to overthink a lot of things and only like facts. I normally don’t cross thread anything albeit I had a similar instance with my shocks. The bolt on the bottoms that goes into the rack weld got threaded and wouldn’t tighten or loosen... tried for a couple weeks trying to loosen or anything but eventually had to saw off the whole bolt and that’s why I only have one front shock. I’ll be sure to check and keep y’all posted.

'66
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