15yo with a ‘66 Stang Coupe... Need help! - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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15yo with a ‘66 Stang Coupe... Need help!

Hey y’all so my dad helped me a lot to get a mustang on my 15th birthday because I really wanted a classic car. I’ve been in love with them since I don’t know.... forever haha. I have 2 jobs and play sports and other extracurricular activities so I’m super busy. I worked on it as much as I could this summer but my birthday is in 2 months and I need to have it running by then so I can have a car to drive. He buys me parts and etc but I have to do all the work and it’s really hard because when I come to a problem I can’t find a solution to on the internet or in my manuals then I have to try and solve it myself as he won’t help me because he is also busy. It is an automatic 1966 289ci 4.7L v8 HiPo with factory AC, spring yellow with a hard vinyl top that I would like to take off, but I am afraid of what could be under there.
I’ve installed:
•Transmission Pan
•Valve Covers
•Spark Plugs/Wires
•New Battery/Battery Holder
•1/4 Shocks (Front left got threaded during installation and had to cut off bolt, waiting on replacement)
•Gas Tank is in, still need to caulk
•Working on new radio and wires
•Trying to fix horns, had to reroute wires as PO did a very ugly job and put a doorbell on the side of the steering wheel
•New Steering Wheel/Turn Signal thing
•Rebuilt Carburetor
•New Air Filter
•Currently working on alternator and all pulleys
•Harmonic Balancer
•More that I can’t think of off the top of my head
And to come to my more prominent problem, my fan/radiator mixture.
He buys parts without doing a ton of research or asking me at all, so he bought a radiator that is wider than normal. I’m not sure if he bought a 3 row or 2 row but he got the “right” radiator from Champion Radiators. It is really thick and I installed it after football today. He also got I think it’s a 3.5” plastic fan shroud for it. He got a bigger than normal fan clutch also(along with a spacer with is very much not needed right now). So once he buys things he doesn’t like buying them again. We don’t have the money to spend but he will buy what he thinks I need in a heartbeat. I had to cut the transmission cooling lines to uninstall the stock radiator because the flare nuts were rusted to where they screw in, so I also need to get new lines. A lot of the wings on the new radiator came bent also. But the huge problem is, with the new radiator in, I can’t even get the fan clutch(new or old) to fit in the space between the radiator and where it’s supposed to go. Nor does the fan fit on it in that position either, obviously. My dad is saying that there’s a way to do it I just need to research, which I’ve done plenty of and still haven’t come to a conclusion on what to do. I don’t want to put the old radiator back in, but I don’t think he will buy me a new, thinner one because he says that this provides more cooling, which is true, but I cannot get the fan or clutch on which definitely doesn’t help. He says I may have to bend the frame which I most definitely am not going to do. I doubt I am going to get any answers but anyone who stayed and read this, I’m sorry for my unknowingness and bad grammar. Just trying to get my point across haha. And thank you to anyone that answers, God bless.
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post #2 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 10:10 PM
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Welcome to the VMF.
Pics are worth more than words in many cases
Champion radiators are good stuff
I have a 67 style Champion #340 in my 66 just need to drill a couple of new holes
this should help with your wiring issues
1966 Mustang Wiring Diagrams - Average Joe Restoration

Vintage Mustang Wiring Diagrams

In addition I highly recommend using a relay to power your horns ,headlights High and low beam and If you end up going with an electric Radiator fan that as well
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Brad

Last edited by 2nd 66; 09-04-2019 at 10:13 PM.
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post #3 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 10:12 PM
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Welcome to VMF.
The fan clutch takes up quite a bit of space so yes, it is possible that it won't fit in the gap between the water pump and the extra thick radiator. The only solution is to leave the clutch out and just install a regular fan without a clutch. You will need a different fan because the bolt pattern is different between the 2 fans. You may also need a spacer to move the fan closer to the radiator.
It's a pity that your father won't accept the mistake and send the 3 row radiator back and exchange it for a 2 row.
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post #4 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2nd 66 View Post
Welcome to the VMF.
Pics are worth more than words in many cases
Champion radiators are good stuff
I have a 67 style Champion #340 in my 66 just need to drill a couple of new holes
this should help with your wiring issues
1966 Mustang Wiring Diagrams - Average Joe Restoration

Vintage Mustang Wiring Diagrams

In addition I highly recommend using a relay to power your horns ,headlights High and low beam and If you end up going with an electric Radiator fan that as well
Idk if I am working this correctly because I am new but thank you for the wiring, I’ll look into it tomorrow. I can also take pictures of it when it’s light out. I did have to drill holes to fit it onto the grille? I am not entirely sure what is in front of the radiator. I know a decent amount about cars but I am definitely no expert. My high/lows work and my radiator did as well before I started working on my car officially. It hasn’t run for probably 6 months because I’ve been so busy. What relay do you recommend? Thanks
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post #5 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 10:27 PM
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Welcome to the wonderful world of hot-rodding. For future reference, nothing ever fits! I'll see what help I can be.
1. You can flare the ends of the trans cooling lines and use rubber hose to connect to the radiator. You will need to get some barb fittings for the rad. Parts stores sell them.
2) That radiator will require you to use an electric fan.
2b.) This opens up a whole can of worms. You may need to upgrade your electrical system to do it.

Now let me give you a little advice. I assume this is your first go at this type of wrenching. Don't bite off more than you can chew.

Step 1 Get it running and driving in stock form.
Step 2 Install upgrades that enhance safety next. (Seatbelts!)
Step 3 Inspect brakes and steering to make sure they are COMPLETELY safe and sound.
Step 4 Make a plan for what mods you want to do, in what order.
Step 5 Perform 1 mod at a time.

Learn everything you can from everyone you can at places like this. But don't take everything you're told as gospel. Join a local Mustang club if you can. You will be amazed at how much time some of old guys will give kids like you. We love to see teens get into this hobby, and we will do whatever we can to help.

Lastly, DO NOT let your friends drive your car. They will ask. They will beg. Never, ever let them. Driving an old car takes a special skill set that most teens do not have. You will develop these skills through practice. Your friends (and their cheap, somewhat modern cars) will not have the experience to handle a V8 RWD car with no nannies. Oh, and if you do, and they wreck, it's YOUR insurance that gets to pay up. Ask me how I know. ;-)
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post #6 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by awhtx View Post
Welcome to VMF.
The fan clutch takes up quite a bit of space so yes, it is possible that it won't fit in the gap between the water pump and the extra thick radiator. The only solution is to leave the clutch out and just install a regular fan without a clutch. You will need a different fan because the bolt pattern is different between the 2 fans. You may also need a spacer to move the fan closer to the radiator.
It's a pity that your father won't accept the mistake and send the 3 row radiator back and exchange it for a 2 row.
I have a 2.25” spacer. Do you recommend any fans in particular that don’t have clutches? And it may be a 2 row I am not entirely sure. Like I said before, I’m no expert! How can I check if it’s a 2 or 3 row? Thank you 🙂

'66
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post #7 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by agungoll View Post
Idk if I am working this correctly because I am new but thank you for the wiring, I’ll look into it tomorrow. I can also take pictures of it when it’s light out. I did have to drill holes to fit it onto the grille? I am not entirely sure what is in front of the radiator. I know a decent amount about cars but I am definitely no expert. My high/lows work and my radiator did as well before I started working on my car officially. It hasn’t run for probably 6 months because I’ve been so busy. What relay do you recommend? Thanks
I used generic 30 amp Bosch style relays from AZ and built my own harness


Brad
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post #8 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jgrote View Post
Welcome to the wonderful world of hot-rodding. For future reference, nothing ever fits! I'll see what help I can be.
1. You can flare the ends of the trans cooling lines and use rubber hose to connect to the radiator. You will need to get some barb fittings for the rad. Parts stores sell them.
2) That radiator will require you to use an electric fan.
2b.) This opens up a whole can of worms. You may need to upgrade your electrical system to do it.

Now let me give you a little advice. I assume this is your first go at this type of wrenching. Don't bite off more than you can chew.

Step 1 Get it running and driving in stock form.
Step 2 Install upgrades that enhance safety next. (Seatbelts!)
Step 3 Inspect brakes and steering to make sure they are COMPLETELY safe and sound.
Step 4 Make a plan for what mods you want to do, in what order.
Step 5 Perform 1 mod at a time.

Learn everything you can from everyone you can at places like this. But don't take everything you're told as gospel. Join a local Mustang club if you can. You will be amazed at how much time some of old guys will give kids like you. We love to see teens get into this hobby, and we will do whatever we can to help.

Lastly, DO NOT let your friends drive your car. They will ask. They will beg. Never, ever let them. Driving an old car takes a special skill set that most teens do not have. You will develop these skills through practice. Your friends (and their cheap, somewhat modern cars) will not have the experience to handle a V8 RWD car with no nannies. Oh, and if you do, and they wreck, it's YOUR insurance that gets to pay up. Ask me how I know. ;-)
Sorry about that last part 😉
Definitely don’t plan on letting anyone driving it besides my dad and I.
I completely understand about that process but....
When I first got my car my dad helped a little bit and just bought a ton of parts of which I had no clue to what each did. I had to learn from manuals and all sorts, just looking at the car even. I wanted to keep it as stock as possible but my dad wanted to hide a little modern under the hood. I forgot to mention in my original that I also plan on putting power steering and power brakes in, which I do not have yet. I got to drive it before I got my permit and it was doable but I wouldn’t say necessarily great for a daily driver. But back to what I was saying he would do one part over here and have me finish and he’d just start other jobs and then he got busy at work and hasn’t helped me since, so I have to catch up on all his undoing and I don’t even know where he put all the nuts and bolts he took out so I just have to find out on the way to a running car. Do I NEED an electric fan, or can I use one without a clutch like the other guy said? Thank you 🙂

'66
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post #9 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 2nd 66 View Post
I used generic 30 amp Bosch style relays from AZ and built my own harness
Ok great thank you I will look into that and try to convince my dad 🙂
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post #10 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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Also want to add that we get parts both online and a classic car shop in the city. I am eventually going to get power steering/brakes. Disc brakes, new rims, and maybe paint dark red. I will get pictures ASAP

'66
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post #11 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 10:46 PM
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It's up to what you want and what you can fit. Also, it needs to be able to keep it cool. I've used flex fans on other cars, but never a Mustang. I'm sure you'll be fine. Don't get the crap one they sell at Autozone. PS and PB are actually quite involved projects, so hold off a bit until you have a little more experience. PB won't be too big a deal, but you'll want expert advice on PS. There is only one man to talk to, and he's on here. @CHOCK, here's a can of worms for you! https://www.vintage-mustang.com/foru...590-chock.html
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post #12 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agungoll View Post
I have a 2.25” spacer. Do you recommend any fans in particular that don’t have clutches? And it may be a 2 row I am not entirely sure. Like I said before, I’m no expert! How can I check if it’s a 2 or 3 row? Thank you 🙂

Remove the radiator cap and look inside. Are there 2 rows or 3 rows of tubes in there?


Quote:
Originally Posted by agungoll View Post
Also want to add that we get parts both online and a classic car shop in the city. I am eventually going to get power steering/brakes. Disc brakes, new rims, and maybe paint dark red. I will get pictures ASAP

Power steering and power brakes are not needed on an early Mustang. Spend the money on parts that are necessary.
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post #13 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jgrote View Post
It's up to what you want and what you can fit. Also, it needs to be able to keep it cool. I've used flex fans on other cars, but never a Mustang. I'm sure you'll be fine. Don't get the crap one they sell at Autozone. PS and PB are actually quite involved projects, so hold off a bit until you have a little more experience. PB won't be too big a deal, but you'll want expert advice on PS. There is only one man to talk to, and he's on here. @CHOCK, here's a can of worms for you! https://www.vintage-mustang.com/foru...590-chock.html
Ok thank you so much! When it comes to PS I’ll be sure to talk to him haha

'66
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post #14 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 11:53 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by awhtx View Post

Remove the radiator cap and look inside. Are there 2 rows or 3 rows of tubes in there?

Power steering and power brakes are not needed on an early Mustang. Spend the money on parts that are necessary.
I’ll check tomorrow after practice. They aren’t necessary that is true, but I will be using as a daily driver. My dad wants to put a lot of money into it because when I go to college it’s his. He gives me ideas but I got him to agree to dual pipe it since it’s single and put American thunder muffler. I have everything to get it running great right now. Just ran into this problem and transmission lines. Once I get those fixed I can put pulleys back in, caulk the gas tank, and she’ll be running great(after fluid replacement of course). Then I just need to finish radio, door panels, and instrument panel and she’ll be looking great and running amazing. Hopefully. But thank you

'66
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post #15 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 02:12 AM
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Hello agungoll, welcome to the forum! Congratulations on your new (old)car. It’s really cool that your dad is willing to buy parts for your car, however, it seems like you will have to direct his hand as far as what is needed first and then second etc. A few on here have mentioned that the most necessary fixes early on, are things that pertain to safety and reliability. Be sure and keep that point at the front. Many vintage cars out there, have a lot of money spent on them, but when you look close, there were a lot of things that should have been fixed before hand. Owning a classic Mustang is something you will never forget – could be either good or bad! Anyway, enough from my soapbox! Addressing the issue that you referred to about your gas tank… If I understand you right, the caulk you are speaking of , would be the caulk that is around the perimeter where the tank sits down into the trunk floor. Drain the gas tank, or if you’re unable to do that, raise the tank up an inch or two and apply what is called “strip caulk” around the entire perimeter of the trunk surface (after you have cleaned that very well). Good luck!
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