1967 convertible basket case - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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1967 convertible basket case

Hello mustang world, I recently acquired a 1967 mustang convertible that needs to be put back together. I was lucky enough that the previous owner had a shop completely disassemble the vehicle, put on a rotisserie, sand blast, rust repair and paint. Then he lost interest and I ended up with a project with all of the hard and expensive work done already 😀

I am going to post as I am able to complete projects, take as many pictures and videos as I can and pick all you guruís brains until this project is completed. I am not a mechanic, but I have been working on cars and motorcycles for years in my garage and feel like I can take on this project as it has been a dream of mine to do something like this. I have a tight budget of $3000 at the moment, which I am hoping will get me most of the way there.

The previous owner gave me all of the parts and pieces that were taken off of the car with a few exceptions such as the gas tank and windshield. I will find out more as I go. All the bolts and screws were labeled and bagged and most of the painted parts that are not on the body are in bubble wrap and ready to be put on. Please bare with me as I will be asking many questions, some will be dumb and obvious to some of you. I am here to learn, have fun, and hopefully help out other people who donít think they have it in them to complete a project of this magnitude.

I am sure this build will not be a quick project for me considering I have 2 jobs and an 11 month old baby at the house, but I will update everybody when i get time.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Pics

Here are some pictures of the starting point
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 10:52 PM
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Iíll be following.

Ex-wife,....."You drove how far for that thing?"
Daughter,..."Theres no inside and it stinks."
Friend,......."Dude, thatís a rusted pile."
Son,.........."This old car is cool."

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-14-2019, 12:39 AM
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You did better than I did. I got the new paint but I also got the free rust on the underside.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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I contacted midlife harness restoration and he is shut down for a few months due to the hurricane that hit Florida. So once he get back up and running I will send off my harness for it to be gone through. In the mean time, I had an 2 hours of time to work on the engine a bit and just try to clean it up. I used a few different wires wheels on my angle grinder and it is coming out pretty good so far. I have never messed with an engine before so i am going slow and trying to learn as I go. I found the engine block code C5AE-6015E, after doing a bit of research it could be a desirable engine block. I doubt it due to the 2v intake and carb setup. Any input would be helpful.

I took the valve covers off and the heads appear to be terribly filthy. Iím not sure if there is any way to clean them without taking the heads off, the thought of doing that is concerning to me. I will do a check of the rod bearings when I get time to get an idea if the engine is healthy or not. I will also try to get a leak down test kit, i hate to buy one for a one time use.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 05:34 PM
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You have a big decision to make. Do you go ahead and tear the engine down and have everything checked for wear or do you put it in the car as-is and take your chances?
That cylinder head was cast on Aug 18, 1966 (6H18) so it went in a very early 1967 model car. Does your car have an early VIN?
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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Ill have to check for the vin when i get home tomorrow, Iím not sure when it was made. Due to my tight budget i canít afford to rebuild the entire motor at this point. I am going to do some basic checks to see where I stand before making any big decisions, I am crossing my fingers she is as good as the previous owner claimed. As of now I am going to clean it up, replace a few things such as the, oil pump and water pump, possibly other things if need be and see how she goes.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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The VIN is 7F03C133032, not sure what all that means but I'm sure you experts know.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 08:01 PM
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Nice starting place. We apparently have different definitions of basket cases. Rings, bearings and gaskets are a few hundred dollars if that's all it needs. A used roller 5.0 can be had for 5 to $600.

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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So I popped off the oil pan tonight to check the bearings. I started with the rod bearings sides to side. I believe the highest reading I got was .004. I've been reading different posts and I believe that that number is ok for the side to side clearance. I then pulled off the bearing and I was super happy with how smooth it was. It was like glass, not a single ridge. I simply used my finger nail to test it out. I then moved on to the main bearing next to it and was also super happy to find the exact same quality. I reattached them lightly until I can borrow a torque wrench from AutoZone. I did make sure to reinstall the caps in the exact same orientation as they were.

As of now I'm going to replace the oil pump and try to clean it up a bit. I'm hoping to do a leak down test to make me feel more comfortable about the piston rings before I put the engine in the car.

If I say something stupid or anybody has any recommendations, please feel free to chime in. I don't plan on tearing the engine down internally any more unless I have to.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Mourning View Post
The VIN is 7F03C133032, not sure what all that means but I'm sure you experts know.

Yes, that's an early '67. Serial numbers began at 100001 every model year so yours was the 33,031st Mustang assigned a VIN at Dearborn. If you have the original Warranty Plate still attached to the driver's door it will tell you the projected assembly date.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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The tag is still on the original door which was taken off the car. I have to put it on the new door eventually.

I'm looking at oil pumps, not sure what I will need. Do I need just the pump, or the complete setup with the pickup tube and drive shaft?
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-20-2019, 05:38 AM
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Projected assembly date 14M translates to Dec 14, 1966. If the heads and block were cast in Aug. the engine should have been assembled in Sep. Do you know where to find the engine assembly date stamped into the block just forward of the driver side head?
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