Next phase for the 66 coupe - Page 27 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #391 of 417 (permalink) Old 09-14-2015, 09:04 PM
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-2.5 camber. Looks more in some pictures but those are right after the build and before alignment.

Ahhhhhh, that splains it!


Sent from my stupid phone

-Mark-

1966 Mustang 2+2

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post #392 of 417 (permalink) Old 01-17-2016, 05:04 PM
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hey Shaun, what are the specs of your XXR 531 wheels please?
I know they are 18", but what about the backspace please?
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post #393 of 417 (permalink) Old 02-22-2017, 07:12 PM
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Our front coil over system allows me to narrow the track width to easily fit a 18x8.5" front
Hi Shaun-
Can you elaborate on the above? I just installed your front coil over system on my 64.5 vert and I'd love to be able to easily fit an 8", never mind an 8.5", wheel up front.
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post #394 of 417 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Shaun-
Can you elaborate on the above? I just installed your front coil over system on my 64.5 vert and I'd love to be able to easily fit an 8", never mind an 8.5", wheel up front.
By shortening the UCA with the heim joints and the camber kit I can change track width.
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post #395 of 417 (permalink) Old 02-06-2018, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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Haven't updated this post in a while because the car has been hibernating! 2017 was an EPIC year for Street or Track and I can only thank you all for your support.

The car ate itself partially last time out in October 2016. Turns out it likes a diet of carbon fiber distributor gears:


I was SO busy last year I didn't run the car so didn't fix it. Lame I know but after years of tireless development and working all the dang time Wife1 finally got her way and we started a major home overhaul of our 1936 home.

Well, enough of that! Signed up for 3 days of blasting around Road America this July so needed to get this running. Put on a new gear (bronze this time) then my engine guy tells me the Crane distributors don't get oil to the gear so he files this little groove into the housing:


Fresh gas, 37 degrees max timing and BAM! 510hp at the flywheel at 6400rpm and still climbing. Not bad for a 2700lb tin can.

Last edited by Shaun; 02-06-2018 at 04:46 PM.
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post #396 of 417 (permalink) Old 02-06-2018, 08:05 PM
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You're probably going to have to replace the bronze one after about a year, depending on how hard you run it.

John

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post #397 of 417 (permalink) Old 02-06-2018, 09:27 PM
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I literally just saw your post on FB then to see more details here is cool. glad ya got it back up and going
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post #398 of 417 (permalink) Old 02-06-2018, 09:30 PM
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Why no video...

Regards,
Patrick
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post #399 of 417 (permalink) Old 02-07-2018, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
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You're probably going to have to replace the bronze one after about a year, depending on how hard you run it.
I run it 110% every time its out so I'm going to carry a spare gear with me from now on.
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post #400 of 417 (permalink) Old 02-07-2018, 09:42 PM
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I run it 110% every time its out so I'm going to carry a spare gear with me from now on.
If your cam is 5150/5160 induction hardened steel or 8620 carburized billet, you might consider a melonized steel gear as an alternative. If you are using a high volume or high pressure oil pump, the bronze gear is very short on useful life.
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post #401 of 417 (permalink) Old 02-08-2018, 08:37 AM
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If your cam is 5150/5160 induction hardened steel or 8620 carburized billet, you might consider a melonized steel gear as an alternative. If you are using a high volume or high pressure oil pump, the bronze gear is very short on useful life.
When I put my GT40P in my 66 I read up on distributor gears as well as spoke to several company techs from MSD and Ford. I don’t believe the Melonized gear is compatible with the 8620 used on mechanical roller cams, the 8620 is too hard. I think you’re limited to the brass and possibly the composite. Not saying this is the case with Shaun but I think a couple problems in general are that people don’t verify the correct placement of the gear on the shaft. I bought a Melonized MSD gear and MSD supplies specific info on locating the gear as well as Ford Motorsport. I checked a couple of old Ford point distributors I had and non of them were close to being right. Oddly enough a Auto Zone Taiwan made Duraspark I bought for a 85 Mustang with roller cam was almost dead on. We should be checking gear mesh. I think another general fault is how many people just stab in a new distributor without putting a break in lube on the distributor gear?

SADI cams do not need a special gear. A standard cast iron gear is fine. A SADI cam is made of ductile iron and only the lobe surfaces are hardened and this can be done on the production line without changing the profile dimensions.

Tom

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post #402 of 417 (permalink) Old 02-08-2018, 09:53 PM
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Tom,

Thanks very much for calling out my numbskullness on 8620 billets. You are absolutely correct that steel gears and 8620 cams are a no-go. Bronze gears are the most reliable, but will require regular inspection and periodic replacement. I'll shut up now!

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post #403 of 417 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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post #404 of 417 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 07:48 PM
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Oh dear. Sorry man. Any idea what the primary point of failure was?

The anvil of reality.
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post #405 of 417 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 08:18 PM
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That'll buff out! That is some serious destruction! Guess we'll have to buy more parts to fund the rebuild.

65 C Code hardtop from California still wearing it's original paint.
Roller 331, TW 170 heads, T-5z, FiTech EFI, FPA Headers, Arvinode exhaust, SoT Bilstien coilover front suspension, TJ on eBay 8" 3.40 Trac-Loc 3rd member. Mustang Steve 2008 GT bracketed 12.4" front disks
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