1970 Mach 1 H-Code Build - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 310 (permalink) Old 01-17-2014, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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1970 Mach 1 H-Code Build

It's been 2 1/2 years since I started my Mach 1 project. Recently, a few VMF members asked if I could post a build thread. I had started a build thread on another forum, but then stopped updating it. I didn't think anyone was interested.

I have since learned people are interested. And since I have learned so much from the people here on VMF, I'm making the effort to start and maintain a build thread on VMF. And I'll try to post a lot of pictures, since everyone seems to like pics.

Background: I've been working on cars since I was 14. I've learned a lot by doing things myself, but I've never had any formal training. When I got this Mach 1 project, I was pretty good with mechanical things. But I had never done any welding or body work. So, here goes...

Here's the car when I first got it home. I found it in New Mexico. It was a running, driving car. But it was very rough. The previous owner was a really nice family guy who just drove the car a lot. He didn't have the resources or know-how restore it himself.





Here are some shots of the interior.











It's a Mustang. So, here's the proverbial shot of a typical Mustang undercarriage. Completely shot!



And here's what was covering those holes in the floor pans:




Last edited by Klutch; 01-17-2014 at 09:35 PM.
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post #2 of 310 (permalink) Old 01-17-2014, 09:36 PM
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Stolen street signs huh? And just when I though I'd seen it all....

1966 GT coupe, A code 289, 4 speed.
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post #3 of 310 (permalink) Old 01-17-2014, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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My Mustang is a very low option car. According to the Marti report, the original owner ordered the car in El Paso. He checked "Mach 1" and "Shaker" on the options list and that was it. But hey, at least it's a shaker car! It was rough, but it was all there.



Yeah, that appears to be a 1969 shaker top. Since it's an original shaker car, I don't know what to make of that. The car was built at the very end of the production year. So, I'm thinking the guys at the Dearborn plant just threw on whatever they had. And they had '69 shaker tops.

Oh, and those are '69 hood pins with '70 twist-lock assemblies. I guess the previous owner just installed the pins when the twist locks fell apart.

Here's where I start tearing down the car. While it would have been fun to actually drive the car while I was fixing it up, it was just too rough for the rolling restoration thing. So, I just stripped it down to start over.



The taillight panel was downright frightening. It appeared it had rusted out, then someone globbed on a few cans of body filler and called it good. Of course, the trunk pan and rear cross member were also shot.





Last edited by Klutch; 01-17-2014 at 09:53 PM.
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post #4 of 310 (permalink) Old 01-17-2014, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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The engine compartment wasn't pretty. But it was surprisingly unmolested. The original 351 Cleveland 2V had been rebuilt once and all the original parts, sans the radiator hose, were all there.



Ejecting the core...






And on the stand...




I found a build sheet under the back seat. It's rough, but some of it was readable.



More teardown...



I had the car professionally media blasted by a local guy. His rates were pretty reasonable, but he was the most reluctant business man I'd ever met. At first, he simply did not want to blast my car. I persisted. Once he got to know me a little, he warmed up. Turns out he had been burned by a lot of street rod guys who expected perfection for low ball prices. I told him I didn't need every bit of filler and sound proofing stripped off. I just wanted all the paint, primer and, most of all, rust removed.





As is always the case, blasting revealed a lot of rusted out panels. I wasn't really surprised by this. My big concern was the frame rails, torque boxes and rockers. When I initially inspected the car, it appeared those components were solid. Luckily, it turned out they were. As for the trunk pan, not so much...



The rear cross member was rusted out as well.




Last edited by Klutch; 01-17-2014 at 10:44 PM.
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post #5 of 310 (permalink) Old 01-17-2014, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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I've seen cowls that were worse. But it's still bad enough to require a complete replacement.



Time to start putting some sheet metal back on!



New pans, man! I wanted to do butt welds, rather than overlapping the new pans. It took a lot of time, but I think it was worth it. If I had to do it again, I would just install a complete, one-piece floor.



New cowl, baby!


Last edited by Klutch; 01-17-2014 at 10:45 PM.
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post #6 of 310 (permalink) Old 01-17-2014, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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As is almost always the case, the battery tray and radiator support were shot and I removed them.



And here's the new battery tray and radiator support.



And here's a new taillight panel.



I later had to remove that new taillight panel. I couldn't get it to line up correctly. It turned out the left rear frame rail was bent. I talked to a local chassis guy who told me I should be able to straighten it myself if I removed the trunk pan. Turns out he was right.

Here's a shot of the new trunk pan and rear cross member.

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post #7 of 310 (permalink) Old 01-17-2014, 11:30 PM
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cool car! Assuming it's a calypso corral 351C shaker car. My car is a 1970 351C, calypso corral, shaker (now), sportroof.
I feel for you with the rust repair. Your shaker looks correct to me.
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post #8 of 310 (permalink) Old 01-17-2014, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, Sidewinder. Yes, it's a Calypso Coral Car. I plan to repaint it the original color.

As for the shaker, the '70 shaker top on a 351 really isn't supposed to have the "351" badges. But there they are.

I've made more progress. All the rust repair is complete! I'll post more pictures soon.
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post #9 of 310 (permalink) Old 01-17-2014, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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These are just some of the rusted panels I cut off the car.



My car had suffered some serious damage on the driver's side at some point. The left rear quarter panel was replaced. But they left part of the seat divider crunched. I had to order and entirely new seat/trunk divider only to cut off the one small piece I needed. But I'm glad I did it.





I was able to do most of sheet metal repair myself. But the driver side roof pillar was badly damaged and the lower right, rear quarter panel required a patch. I wasn't confident I could do those pieces. A friend of mine recommended me to a local guy who's been building and racing Mustangs since there were Mustangs. He agreed to work on my car. So, I had to put some primer on it lest it get caught in the rain.

I used SPI red oxide epoxy primer. I went to my local paint store to buy a primer gun. They didn't have any. The woman behind the counter suggested I just use a Harbor Freight gun. So I did. And, by golly, it worked just fine.











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post #10 of 310 (permalink) Old 01-18-2014, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
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Here's the quarter panel repair finishing up. It's a patch panel from Spectra Premium.



And there's the roof pillar installed. He was able to do this in just a couple of hours. Luckily, I was able to buy that roof pillar from a guy in North Carolina. He had a fastback that was in really bad shape. But the roof pillars were fine. Although you can buy an entire fastback body, you can't buy just a roof pillar.

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post #11 of 310 (permalink) Old 01-18-2014, 12:18 AM
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Nice project. Did u have a build thread on 69stang?

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1967 coupe I6,Dui dizzy,front disc,first car. 08/17/07-06/27/09 =(
1970 Fastback 5.0 efi hydr clutch.to be my DD. 8/9/10-11/26/13 =(
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post #12 of 310 (permalink) Old 01-18-2014, 09:28 AM
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Hey Klutch, I've commented on your build on the other site, and I've wondered about how much progress you've made. It's cool to see you're still at it. Keep the pictures coming and keep up the good work !!

Bossed

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post #13 of 310 (permalink) Old 01-18-2014, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the encouragement, guys. Yes, I have a build thread over at 69Stang. I started it there because I was following Buckeye Demon's build thread there. (Hands down winner for "World's Greatest Mustang Build Thread Ever". )

Although I received a few comments at 69Stang, I stopped updating it because there didn't seem to be much interest. Since my skills aren't anything spectacular, and my car is just an H-Code, I didn't think anyone would be interested in my build. But a few people here on VMF said they were interested. So, I'm giving it a go.
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post #14 of 310 (permalink) Old 01-18-2014, 10:50 AM
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Really enjoying this. I am just about ready to start the rebuild of my 70 MACH 1. Keep the pics coming great info

LJ
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post #15 of 310 (permalink) Old 01-18-2014, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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I came to a point in the build where I was just dog tired of doing sheet metal work. Since most of it was done, I decided to change things up and rebuild the engine.

The engine is the original 351 Cleveland 2V. The car's VIN is stamped into the back of the block. (Apparently, most Clevelands have a VIN stamp.) Here's my "surgical ward" for the engine teardown.



This engine has over 250,000 miles on it. It had one rebuild at some point. But it appears the previous owner rarely changed the oil. Everything was really gunked up. And the carburetor was dumping raw gasoline which gunked up the combustion chambers as well.







As I mentioned earlier, I've been working on cars since I was 14 (this was back in the late 1970s.) I've seen some pretty thrashed cars. But I had never seen a timing chain that was as loose as this example, yet still doing its job. Honestly, I don't see how it was staying in place. I drove it only a few miles before I tore it down and it actually ran pretty well, which is really surprising.



Last edited by Klutch; 01-18-2014 at 11:15 AM.
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