1969 Shelby GT350 Hertz - Page 11 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #151 of 500 (permalink) Old 10-28-2016, 01:22 PM
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If you cut up the brackets you have then the worst thing that can happen is you get new brackets which is already your only other option.

Having said that, I'd search hard for a picture of stock brackets before I got to cutting.

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post #152 of 500 (permalink) Old 10-28-2016, 01:57 PM
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I have an extra set of new '69 rear bumper brackets if you need some.
post #153 of 500 (permalink) Old 10-28-2016, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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Makes sense to cut the current ones first, buy new ones if I mess up. Plus this would also allow for a more custom fit, as I always thought the 69 bumper sat out a little too far.
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VMF Build Thread - 1969 Shelby GT350 Hertz rebuild Gallery
Used by Hertz for the 1969 "Rent-A-Racer" program at Miami Internation Airport.
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post #154 of 500 (permalink) Old 10-28-2016, 11:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68Hildago View Post
I would cut the brackets up. This way you will ensure the fitment you are after.

68Hildago...
What he said

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post #155 of 500 (permalink) Old 10-30-2016, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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Went back and took some before shots of how the bumper sets on the car. Then marked off and cut out some wedges out of the brackets. Finally I tack welded the brackets back together and will have to take them back to the car to see how the bumper looks.




Pre bracket cut

Post bracket cut


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VMF Build Thread - 1969 Shelby GT350 Hertz rebuild Gallery
Used by Hertz for the 1969 "Rent-A-Racer" program at Miami Internation Airport.

Last edited by 69GT350H; 10-30-2016 at 07:11 PM.
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post #156 of 500 (permalink) Old 10-30-2016, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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Test fitting the bumper after modifying the mounting brackets.

Looking MUCH better!






David
VMF Build Thread - 1969 Shelby GT350 Hertz rebuild Gallery
Used by Hertz for the 1969 "Rent-A-Racer" program at Miami Internation Airport.
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post #157 of 500 (permalink) Old 11-04-2016, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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Getting closer. Red 2k primer. Still a few spots to touch up.




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VMF Build Thread - 1969 Shelby GT350 Hertz rebuild Gallery
Used by Hertz for the 1969 "Rent-A-Racer" program at Miami Internation Airport.
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post #158 of 500 (permalink) Old 11-06-2016, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Verified the rear window fits


David
VMF Build Thread - 1969 Shelby GT350 Hertz rebuild Gallery
Used by Hertz for the 1969 "Rent-A-Racer" program at Miami Internation Airport.
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post #159 of 500 (permalink) Old 11-11-2016, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Amazon had a 2 pack of the 6 LED 18W flood lights for $17.99 so I picked up a pair and used them as night time loading lights on the back of the trailer.



I used a hollow threaded rod to mount them on the back of the trailer and ran the power wires through the tube so there is only 1 hole per light. I ran a wire from my switch panel by the side door to the back. I'm happy with how it lights up the back outside of the trailer at night.




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VMF Build Thread - 1969 Shelby GT350 Hertz rebuild Gallery
Used by Hertz for the 1969 "Rent-A-Racer" program at Miami Internation Airport.
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post #160 of 500 (permalink) Old 11-11-2016, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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So back to the car, I was going to paint the inside facing side of the doors and started sanding them down. Found a rust hole on the drivers door, lower front. As I examined it, I found a fiberglass patch that I put there 24 years ago, I had forgotten I did that. I removed the fiberglass and cut out the rusty metal. Used a little scrap metal (from an old patch panel) and made two patches, shaping them with the body hammer, dolly and some crescent wrenches. Unfortunately the gas hose for my Harbor Freight MIG welder has cracked someplace between the welder and the tip so I have to replace it before I can finish the repair. Just in case anyone has the same problem, I bought 15' of 4mm poly hose on-line for $7.99.




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VMF Build Thread - 1969 Shelby GT350 Hertz rebuild Gallery
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post #161 of 500 (permalink) Old 11-12-2016, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Finished porting the exhaust on one of the cast heads. Broke my good carbide burr and two shanks, so I'll have to make an Amazon Prime purchase before I can start on the other head.


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post #162 of 500 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 09:20 AM
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Work the guide boss as well.
post #163 of 500 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 03:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69GT350H View Post
So back to the car, I was going to paint the inside facing side of the doors and started sanding them down. Found a rust hole on the drivers door, lower front. As I examined it, I found a fiberglass patch that I put there 24 years ago, I had forgotten I did that. I removed the fiberglass and cut out the rusty metal. Used a little scrap metal (from an old patch panel) and made two patches, shaping them with the body hammer, dolly and some crescent wrenches.



So this post, and the next, I am wondering if after all the other work on the car, replacement of the passenger door, rear quarters, filler panel, tail panel and trunk floor, do I keep this drivers door and continue to repair it, or do I get another repro door to match the passenger side. I think it's the original door, but it has so much rust on both the outer shell and inner shell. I am not the best welder, but I can fix it and make it look good. I just wonder about quality and longevity, will it have issues in the future after it's painted? Granted it's been hidden for the past 24 years, but that is because it's been inside most of that time. It's not going to be a Concours car, but it will be a show car.

Thoughts to help me with my decision?

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VMF Build Thread - 1969 Shelby GT350 Hertz rebuild Gallery
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post #164 of 500 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Continuation of previous post.


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VMF Build Thread - 1969 Shelby GT350 Hertz rebuild Gallery
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post #165 of 500 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 03:20 PM
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If you seal both sides of any patches with Master Series silver, they won't rust. As for your door, I would at least replace the full lower lip. You want to treat the steel,then wrap the shell lip with the new outer lower skin. Again, all sealed up with MS, and no future problems. When I redid my own '68 1/2 , I wanted to keep the original driver's door. I replaced my passenger door, but with an OEM original. So I ended up reskinning the driver's door. You may get away with a lower patch, as is shown in this pic.


But you don't have to come so far up, whatever you like. But that will give you a clean fold, no rust to reform and you can treat the shell properly in that area with MS.
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