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Thunder revisited - 67 Pro-touring fastback

59K views 365 replies 38 participants last post by  Harryburroughs 
#1 ·
Since they didn't have build threads here at VMF when I started the project, quite a few years ago. I thought I'd start one as I revisit a lot of major components and systems on the car.

So the car has been driven a lot, except in the past year or so, while I've been tied up in a major home renovation (where I did the work myself.) That is almost completed thankfully.
So that means back to the 'stang.

As I drove it, there were a number of things that cropped up, which either bothered me, or were minor issues, or when I drove the car hard at the track, became issues.

So some of the things which will be happening;
Seats; I had cobra seats, with period upholstery done. I don't like these seats for the track and kind of don't like them for driving. They are destined to be redone.
Suspension; Everything is good except for the rear. After the bilstiein shock absorber broke, I think it's binding, so may be going to Shaun's 3 link.
Transmission; I am changing the 5 speed to a 6 speed. I wish that I'd never let anyone talk me out of a 6 speed. I want the 6 speed for driveability on the fairly fast highways and intermediate freeways around here.
Steering; The borgeson unit has been good, but I want something tighter for freeway driving, cornering and header clearance. It's going to be a rack, with power or electric assist.
Electrical; After my alarm system bit the dust, I am adding a new alarm with gps tracking and revamping the power door lock and trunk lock system, along with some needed electrical system work. (That is happening right now)
Rattles; I am going through the body and chassis, on a rattle elimination mission, wish me luck.
Exhaust; With the larger more powerful motor, the 2 1/2" exhaust and mufflers do not cut it. They are too loud inside the car when cruising and too restrictive. Look for a pair of varex mufflers and a complete custom 3"/oval/stainless system to tuck under the lowered chassis.

There is more, like a brand new custom center console with the raised tunnel for the 6 speed.

The good thing, is I am more patient and skilled now, so expect my work to be a much higher quality

Updates soon
 
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#2 ·
Lots of fun <sarcastic> wiring things up on the alarm tonight.
Even though it is the same manufacturer, a lot of the wiring seems to be different.

After wiring up the nice relay panel (shown) it seems that the new alarm uses a ground (-) to trigger the lock circuit(s)
So I had to take everything apart and resolder it again.

All the extra trigger links seem to be not exactly as described, so instead of using them I ended up setting up the trunk and hood sensors on the same circuit (which means I end up having 5-6 additional unused wires)
No big deal, it's an old car (lol)

So after working all night, I have everything all working, power door locks, power trunk, alarm shock sensor, doors etc.\
except for the parking light flash. I can hear the relays clicking, but no lights. Maybe a fuse or something else. I'll check tomorrow.

The GPS module is just a plug in, so expect that to work easily, once I have it all working.
 

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#5 ·
The 6 speed will require tunnel modifications. Add to that I will have to redo my custom console. I expect it to be a lot of work

Can you provide manufacturer details on the GPS alarm?


Thanks, Clint
The GPS system I am using is the compustar drone.

I had a compustar alarm before. It quite working so I went with the new version, assuming that the wiring was similar. The wiring was a little different, but in a lot of ways compatable, other than having to add relays for lights, the power trunk release and door locks.
 
#6 ·
I spent a few days making some cribbing and got to work.

Removing the exhaust and trans, was not too bad. There is a lot of attention needed in routine maintenance and clean up under the chassis.

I like having the car up nice and high. I could possibly go another 12", but I do not think I will. It would be difficult to open the hood and trunk, without hitting the garage ceiling, then.

I didn't want any accidents while wrestling the trans out, plus there was a minor earthquake (so I am told) in the area yesterday. I added cross bracing an tied in all four corners.

Maybe I'll make or buy a creeper now ;)
 

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#10 ·
Thanks.

I am not sure if the compustar is better. I used it from wiring comparability with the earlier computer alarm in my car.

Yeah there are some threads many years old. I'll try and post some pics when I get back from holiday and have net access. The stock interior has been maintained as well.
 
#12 ·
Such a beautiful car. Honestly it was seeing a picture of your car a few years ago that made me decide it was time to stop putting it off and find a fastback to build. In the car culture dictionary if you look up "perfect stance" I am pretty sure a picture of your car will be there.

Looking forward to following along.
 
#16 ·
Since there was a few questions on this, I thought I'd dig up some old photos.

The minitub process represented about six+ months work.
The inner minitub was easy.
Stretching the rear quarters, reshrinking the metal a few weeks

Blocking the quarter panels took ages, but was well worth the time.
Each step involved checking the progress. It involved setting up some halogen lights on an angle, then sheening the quarter with a spray of lightly soapy water, to make the quarter panel shiny.

There are a few important body lines on the quarter panel. The top ridge, is most important. Next the scallop where the scoop sits. Then the fender lip region. Then there is an additional line at the back of the rear quarter, where if you look closely, you can see a strip of masking tape. This technique was used everywhere on the car to sharpen all the body lines.
Then of course matching the fender extensions to the quarter panel, bumper and valance.

1st two pics are before pics

In the one photo, you can see there is about 15" from the inner wheel well to the outer lip.

I got a test 11x17" mustang rim, from a local tire company, to mockup for fitment and backspacing.

Brings back bodywork nightmares ;)
 

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#17 ·
When I took the transmission out, the pilot bushing had fallen out.
I thought that was the source of my transmission vibration.

I decided to have the flywheel and pressure plate balanced.
The flywheel was fine.

The pressure plate was surprisingly almost 1/2 lb out of balance.

I decided after entertaining a few craigslist people who were undecided, that I would put the 5 speed back in.

I changed the trans oil, with royal purple synchromax. and installed it tonight.

Wow what a huge difference. It's like a completely different car.

So I am going to drive it like this for a while, I think before doing the 6 speed swap, and see what it's like.

I have to top up the fluid and adjust the position of the starter. It seems to be a bit noisy. Not sure why.
 

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#19 ·
The paint is a Lamborghini colour blue.
This colour has a tiny bit of colour changing properties to it. Not like the ford sonic blue, a little more subtle.

I actually have seen some really nice new colours on newer cars that I like also.

I shot the trunk in three colours before deciding... well to be truthful my wife and daughter picked the colours. I was going to go triple black ;) but I had to cater to their wishes. They wanted blue with chrome wheels. It was the trade off for all the late nights working on the car.


I also did some tricky things to the front fenders, and had the front wheels machined, so I could go wider there.

The engine is an all aluminum (pond block) 487 cu FE
 

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#20 ·
Now that everything is back on track and the car is running great, I have another project; to make it quieter.

With the larger engine (8L) goes a larger exhaust. I ordered the mufflers, which should be here in a week or so, and will mock up the system before ordering pipes.
 
#21 ·
Last night the clutch master cylinder pushrod snapped. I had a spare on hand because I had been finding the wilwood clutch and slave set up, tend to blow through seals every 1.5 years.

I haven't changed the m/c for about 3 years, so I will use that parts fail as a reminder to change out the clutch and slave cylinder each year in the off season.

The mufflers arrived. Each one looks to be very well made and each has it's own remote control key fob.
Hoping to have the muffler system redesigned in a couple months
 

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#24 ·
Started working on the exhaust. I demoed the old system yesterday.

I made some wood supports for the mufflers, which will be the key area to locate.

Next once I am happy with the mufflers, it will be the tailpipes.

I have a flex coupling that I want to locate inline, to reduce transmitted vibration through the exhaust. Because the car is quite lowered, I have to locate it a little higher up under the car somewhere. I don't know where that is yet
 

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#26 ·
warthogdriver77 said:
great build man.
car looks excellent.
Thanks!

--

A little more work (a lot) on the drivers side tailpipe. That's the tightest area, so I thought I'd get it over with first.

I think I have the pipes close to mocked up where I need them. I had to enlarge the chrome trim ring a little for the larger tailpipes.
So decent progress. I need to plan for hangers and do a bit more clearancing before doing my welds.

The new welder is great, though. Lots of power. Now I have to work on my welding skills ;)
 

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#27 ·
Worked on the driver's side from the muffler back. It's definitely the toughest, with little clearance between the fuel tank and leaf spring. I added a number of extra brackets so that it won't rattle. The tips are larger than before. It should free up quite a bit of horsepower with the switch to the 3" exhaust on the big engine.

Just gonna hope that this extra long winter is over in time for me to try it out ;)
 

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#28 ·
The exhaust looks good, are those the tips from the kit? I have been thinking about the Magnaflow kit myself, but getting ready to do the SoT 3 link so I may wait to check for clearance.
 
#30 ·
Dove in and got a bunch more work on the exhaust, from the x-pipe back. Welded in the flex couplers to hopefully dampen vibration.
Unfortunately one exhaust flange was mis-packaged, so I have to wait until the new one is shipped to complete the welding to the muffler flanges, darn.

Ideally I wanted this done, before doing the custom oval section from the collector to the x-pipe. Maybe I can do it, I'm not certain yet.

Otherwise I am 1/2 happy tonight lol
 

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#31 ·
I am brainstorming a change to the headlights. Since I have installed Gary's brighter LED signal lights, I am likely using these as my daytime running lights.
Prior to that I had the (four) highbeam circuit loaded with ballast resistors and was using that for a daytime running light. I only used that for about 25% of the time, as it was a high amperage circuit, loaded with ballast resistors to lower the wattage/ light output.

So I am nixing that, and instead replacing that with a momentary passing light/flasher circuit. That's what I was working on tonight.

Next I am deciding on the daytime running light circuit. Do I want it coming on automatically as soon as the car moves, or do I want it switched, manually?

I suppose I can do both, where I have it come on every time the car moves, then have an override switch to turn them off.
 
#32 · (Edited)
Just dropping in a few of the previous bumpsteer images, for information for those who are interested

[Photobucket pic removal]

this was done over the course of 2 days, and requires;

1 a bumpsteer kit
2 a laser level (to level the car)
3 disconnect the sway bar and spring (on the side you are working on, to allow free swinging of the suspension through it's arc
4 an alignment tool, like the fastrax tool from summit
5 patience


The time that I took on this was well worth it, the car drives and steers so much better after doing this work (back in the day)
 
#40 ·
Just dropping in a few of the previous bumpsteer images, for information for those who are interested









this was done over the course of 2 days, and requires;

1 a bumpsteer kit
2 a laser level (to level the car)
3 disconnect the sway bar and spring (on the side you are working on, to allow free swinging of the suspension through it's arc
4 an alignment tool, like the fastrax tool from summit
5 patience


The time that I took on this was well worth it, the car drives and steers so much better after doing this work (back in the day)
I am trying to follow your spreadsheet, but I can't figure out the final settings.

What were your optimal shim stacks on both sides?

Thanks!

Andrew
 
#34 ·
Started work on the carbon fibre ducts for the rear brakes. It should look good, but nice that I can hone my skills on the aesthetics for the parts under the car, where they are slightly less visible.

Will know a little more tonight, after the 1st section hardens
 

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