Thunder revisited - 67 Pro-touring fastback - Page 3 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #31 of 319 (permalink) Old 03-10-2017, 01:56 AM Thread Starter
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I am brainstorming a change to the headlights. Since I have installed Gary's brighter LED signal lights, I am likely using these as my daytime running lights.
Prior to that I had the (four) highbeam circuit loaded with ballast resistors and was using that for a daytime running light. I only used that for about 25% of the time, as it was a high amperage circuit, loaded with ballast resistors to lower the wattage/ light output.

So I am nixing that, and instead replacing that with a momentary passing light/flasher circuit. That's what I was working on tonight.

Next I am deciding on the daytime running light circuit. Do I want it coming on automatically as soon as the car moves, or do I want it switched, manually?

I suppose I can do both, where I have it come on every time the car moves, then have an override switch to turn them off.


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post #32 of 319 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Just dropping in a few of the previous bumpsteer images, for information for those who are interested

[Photobucket pic removal]

this was done over the course of 2 days, and requires;

1 a bumpsteer kit
2 a laser level (to level the car)
3 disconnect the sway bar and spring (on the side you are working on, to allow free swinging of the suspension through it's arc
4 an alignment tool, like the fastrax tool from summit
5 patience


The time that I took on this was well worth it, the car drives and steers so much better after doing this work (back in the day)
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487cu FE Idling with X-Force Varex Mufflers

Last edited by ripped; 07-27-2017 at 12:26 AM.
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post #33 of 319 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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Picked up my carbon fibre mat etc, for constructing my brake ducts and a few other things. It's fairly expensive fabric, but should be a lot of fun making lightweight items for the car.

Possibly have some pics this week, depending on weather
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post #34 of 319 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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Started work on the carbon fibre ducts for the rear brakes. It should look good, but nice that I can hone my skills on the aesthetics for the parts under the car, where they are slightly less visible.

Will know a little more tonight, after the 1st section hardens
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post #35 of 319 (permalink) Old 03-27-2017, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
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Unfortunately the first batch of moulds failed to produce any semblance of a decent result.

Moulds #2 with a different materials, and I hotted up the mix a bit for a faster cure.

The results can only get better.

If it does turn out, then I'll post pics. If it doesn't then no pics


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post #36 of 319 (permalink) Old 03-28-2017, 04:21 PM
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What kind of problems are you having with the carbon parts?

Btw, your car is pretty awesome as others have mentioned. Also, what suspension and wheel tire combo up front?

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post #37 of 319 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017, 12:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sd04cobra View Post
What kind of problems are you having with the carbon parts?

Btw, your car is pretty awesome as others have mentioned. Also, what suspension and wheel tire combo up front?
Thanks very much for your comments. The suspension started out as the Opentracker rollerized perches, and cut springs. It evolved to a TCP upper and lower control arm, then Shaun came along with his coilover, so actually has the SOT coilover, strutrods and TCP uppers and lowers.

Wheels are the 99-04 'stang, 17x9's. Very modified. I cut the backspacing 1.1 and then removed 3/16" off the wheel hub face

Tires are 255/40/17 on the front

Front is now super grippy and I have to look at improving the rear much more now. Eventually looking at Shaun's 3 link for the rear possibly, likely new stickier tires on the back

The problem I am having with the carbon fibre, is really the route I have to take with the brake ducting. It goes up over the leaf spring, and under the exhaust, and also turns to blow air on the brake discs. Pretty complex little shape.

It's coming along though


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post #38 of 319 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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Pretty much finished up work on the rear ducts. Hopefully when the rain stops, and I can get some more work done and a road test in, everything will be as it should.

I am getting a but better at moulding the carbon fibre. It's tough doing a hollow tube

So onto the front pretty soon
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Project 487 Super Snake - '67 Shelby GT500 Pro Touring Beast

487cu FE Idling with X-Force Varex Mufflers

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post #39 of 319 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 12:48 AM Thread Starter
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Switched to the passenger side, and started replacing the balljoints.
Everything went well until I tried to unscrew the lower balljoint.
Didn't go and I damaged one part of the nut slightly

I decided to stop heat it up with my heat gun
no luck, and I didn't want to damage it further

shot it with penetrating oil, and am going to try and get the correct wrench tomorrow. Looks to be a 1 3/4 square socket


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post #40 of 319 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 03:31 PM
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Just dropping in a few of the previous bumpsteer images, for information for those who are interested









this was done over the course of 2 days, and requires;

1 a bumpsteer kit
2 a laser level (to level the car)
3 disconnect the sway bar and spring (on the side you are working on, to allow free swinging of the suspension through it's arc
4 an alignment tool, like the fastrax tool from summit
5 patience


The time that I took on this was well worth it, the car drives and steers so much better after doing this work (back in the day)
I am trying to follow your spreadsheet, but I can't figure out the final settings.

What were your optimal shim stacks on both sides?

Thanks!

Andrew
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post #41 of 319 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
I am trying to follow your spreadsheet, but I can't figure out the final settings.

What were your optimal shim stacks on both sides?

Thanks!

Andrew
I'll can go check, but on the chart for the one side, I'd see 1+3 and 1+3+4 looking the best.


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post #42 of 319 (permalink) Old 04-09-2017, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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A few parts were delivered this week, and while waiting for a special wrench for my lower balljoint, I thought that I'd tackle the door.

There were a number of issues, and upgrades.
The window regulator was worn, so I replaced that.
It was quite badly out of alignment, so spent a good amount of time working out the issues.
(Window never closed tight lately, so always was wind noise on the highway)

Then added a courtesy light in the door.

The door was missing the handle bracket, so I installed that as well.

I thought that I checked the mirror for looseness, and put everything back together.
Nope I didn't check it properly and had to take everything back off again, and took the mirror out and apart. Applied some loctite to the offending screw and put it all back in.

Forgot to guide the adjuster knob through the panel, so yep took it all apart again, and finally have it together.

Took most of the day, but the window alignment looks good, cranks up and down good, and doesn't rattle. Mirror is nice and solid, and the hand hold is screws in tight, so the panel should stay on, even when the door is closed hard.

Whew, quite a long challenging day, but overall addressed quite a few important issues. Especially the window and mirror rattling.
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post #43 of 319 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 12:51 AM Thread Starter
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One of the items on my order list was the fuel filler tube.
I added the 22 gallon tank, to my 'stang at the beginning, but modified the '67 tube to try and make it work.

The pitfalls of that was a necessarily slow tank fill at the gas station. The tube and the tank neck were somewhat mislaigned. If I didn't go brutally slow, I'd get splashback, or gas all over my bumper.

NPD makes a conversion filler tube, so I got that.

It was quite a little battle to get it on, but I managed.

I also modded the cap a little but to fit under the trap door. I removed the spring seal, in favour of a twist on cap a long time ago. I found with the new tube, that the tabs on the cap interfered with the trap door. It didn't close tight.

I adjusted the tabs so the door closes nicely.

Whew. It should be a real nice change, not having to worry about the fuel splash, when gassing the car up, and not having to wash the gas off of the bumper, each fueling.

:-)


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post #44 of 319 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 04:13 PM
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Can you post a few pics of the gas filler and mods that you made? Getting close to that stage on my 22ga Tanks Inc and it will be one of the last things I need to get done before mine is road worthy.

Thanks

Fej

1966 GT Coupe
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Trying to do things once
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post #45 of 319 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Can you post a few pics of the gas filler and mods that you made? Getting close to that stage on my 22ga Tanks Inc and it will be one of the last things I need to get done before mine is road worthy.

Thanks
I uploaded a pic of the newer NPD fuel filler tube for a 67 with the 22 gallon tank.
The other two pics are the original 67 filler that I had to cut to get to align with the 22 gallon tank.

Hope that helps

---

Tonight I picked up the wrench for the lower balljoints. In 5 minutes I had it swapped out. Great having the correct tool.

After doing all the balljoints, is seems like the lowers had minimal wear. The uppers were pretty shot tho.

All good now though. Probably put the tires back on tonight
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