Today's word is INCOMPETENT. - Page 55 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #811 of 839 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 11:42 AM
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Block work

Joe the masonry is top notch. Hope the rest of the garage has this same quality!
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post #812 of 839 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 09:06 PM
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Garage
I'm sure you have addressed the entrance, but, how the heck ya getting in that thing with a car. Looks VERY tight all round the perimeter...

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post #813 of 839 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 69bosssvt View Post
I'm sure you have addressed the entrance, but, how the heck ya getting in that thing with a car. Looks VERY tight all round the perimeter...
Got a plot plan you can share so we can see the overall layout? It would clear up questions about getting in and out.

Alan
1970 Mach 1 Coyote powered restomod in progress. Started 10/2016.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...mod-build.html
2017 Mustang GT AT donor purchased 9/2017.
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post #814 of 839 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
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Let's see if this works.
The orange is the house and old garage area. The new garage in the yellow and orange. It is 1 foot further away from the easements for my roof overhang. The new garage is 26 feet deep and 24 feet wide. So that gives me almost around 20 feet from the house to the garage. I plan on paving most of the area between the house and garage. Leaving a few feet next to the house for planting flower beds. Some of the area on the front left side will be used for a patio area.

Joe in Detroit
1969 Mustang Sports Roof (SAG = Sports Appearance Group) 1 of only 5,729
1966 Ranchero Custom 1 of only 11,000 made. (For Sale)
2014 Mustang V6 premium pony package
1969 Mustang Grande (sold)

Personal Quote from 5-1-15. ''DRIVE IT LIKE YOU HAVE TO POOP!"

"It was a beautiful day, the sun beat down
I had the radio on, I was drivin'
Trees flew by, me and Del were singin' little Runaway
I was flyin'"
Tom Petty, Runnin Down A Dream.

Last edited by 1969sag; 06-11-2019 at 08:33 AM.
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post #815 of 839 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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To recap. A little bit of back story for all of you.
About 8-10 years ago. My wife and I watched as the bubble burst and the real estate market collapsed hard in our area. Even destroying the value of our home at the time.
At this same point in time. My mother was living in a nice trailer park in what was once a nice trailer about 8 miles away from us.
The trailer was starting to fall into disrepair, and needed frequent maintenance. The Trailer park was also raising lot payments every year. I was spending a lot of my money and time trying to repair that trailer.
My mother is retired due to illness, and on a fixed income. She spent any money she ever earned, or had raising 3 sons alone with no help. I am the oldest of the 3 sons.
With all the foreclosed houses hitting the market. My wife and I decided to start looking for a house to buy for my Mom to live the rest of her life in.
We are NOT rich. We survive.
My wife and I started saving money, and looked at a few places, for about a year. Nothing really interesting came up.
Just before the real estate market crash. The carpenter/neighbor across the street sold his beautiful house, and left the area. He sold the house for 140k, to a just married young man starting a new job at GM.
That young man lost his job, and new wife shortly there after. Not a good idea to cheat on a new wife. Soon after that the house went into foreclosure.
My wife and I started working our arses off at our jobs to get enough money to buy it. My wife even worked 2 full time jobs. We were very blessed to get the house and property. We were even more blessed to get it at 1/3 of what it sold for just a few years earlier.
The deal was always. Mom, and baggage (Step Father) get the house. I get the garage for my cars.
Well. That didn't quite work out the way I wanted it to.
The 1930 21 X 21 garage was in very bad condition. It was all I could do to keep it standing for 5 years. The garage had 1 light and 1 outlet. The slab was sinking below grade and would flood with any snow melt, or rain. The sills were rotted out and it developed a bad lean towards the neighbors yards. I could only barely fit my wife's Ranchero inside it during the winter. I did not dare put my mustang in the garage. I constantly feared the garage would collapse under snow load.
No good deed goes unpunished they say.
It also happens that this property must be declared a rental property by law.
So every 3 years the city must inspect the property and makes me repair it up to building code. So I spend a lot of time and money on the place in renovations.
It turns out that is a plus in one way.
When you have to replace a falling down garage on a rental property. That is a pretty darn good tax deduction.

So now you folks no why I built a new garage where I chose to build it.
On a side note. It just so happens that my mother will not be able to get around, living in a 3 story house much longer. Due to age, and she broke her ankle in 3 places last winter.
So after this garage build is done.
I have to start renovating my single story Ranch house. In preparation for a future house swap. So eventually I will be living across the street.
The work never ends around here. LOL.

Joe in Detroit
1969 Mustang Sports Roof (SAG = Sports Appearance Group) 1 of only 5,729
1966 Ranchero Custom 1 of only 11,000 made. (For Sale)
2014 Mustang V6 premium pony package
1969 Mustang Grande (sold)

Personal Quote from 5-1-15. ''DRIVE IT LIKE YOU HAVE TO POOP!"

"It was a beautiful day, the sun beat down
I had the radio on, I was drivin'
Trees flew by, me and Del were singin' little Runaway
I was flyin'"
Tom Petty, Runnin Down A Dream.
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post #816 of 839 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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So the plan was to do this.
Tear down this 1930 garage.
Side note. The front of this garage was all rotted away. I replaced the original barn doors and rebuilt 2/3 of the front of this garage, and I added the garage doors in this pic.


Then build something like this.

Joe in Detroit
1969 Mustang Sports Roof (SAG = Sports Appearance Group) 1 of only 5,729
1966 Ranchero Custom 1 of only 11,000 made. (For Sale)
2014 Mustang V6 premium pony package
1969 Mustang Grande (sold)

Personal Quote from 5-1-15. ''DRIVE IT LIKE YOU HAVE TO POOP!"

"It was a beautiful day, the sun beat down
I had the radio on, I was drivin'
Trees flew by, me and Del were singin' little Runaway
I was flyin'"
Tom Petty, Runnin Down A Dream.

Last edited by 1969sag; 06-11-2019 at 10:03 AM.
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post #817 of 839 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Turnall View Post
Also are they going to lay a top row of "L" block to tie the slab into the block? Just curious...

Allen
that's called a shoe block by the way, it depends on what his wall section looks like, they can drill and epoxy dowels to match his vertical reinf or just let the slab float, i'd detail the dowels if I was drawing it up.

also you can definitely see the lean in the old walls.

as another note please put #4's at 12" oc centered in the slab where you plan to put the lift particularly if it is a 2 post lift. woven wire fabric is for concrete cracking not strength,

Last edited by MustangBillsInc; 06-11-2019 at 03:59 PM.
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post #818 of 839 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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that's called a shoe block by the way, it depends on what his wall section looks like, they can drill and epoxy dowels to match his vertical reinf or just let the slab float, i'd detail the dowels if I was drawing it up.
He will be using rebar dowels. The dowels will be tied into the side of the walls. The slab will rest on these dowels, and the slab will float on top of these. The slab needs to float because of Michigan seasons. The area under the pad will be compacted to 95%. Installing the rebar dowels will ensure that the floor doesn't sink that other 5%.

This will be a 6" thick floor with reinforced steel wire mesh inside the pad. More than strong enough to support a 4 post lift.
Any extra concrete in any area can actually cause cracking.
I just don't know at this time what the post specs are. I have been told by the post maker my 6 inch reinforced floor will be more than acceptable. I also do not know exactly where the perfect placement will be for the future lift.

Joe in Detroit
1969 Mustang Sports Roof (SAG = Sports Appearance Group) 1 of only 5,729
1966 Ranchero Custom 1 of only 11,000 made. (For Sale)
2014 Mustang V6 premium pony package
1969 Mustang Grande (sold)

Personal Quote from 5-1-15. ''DRIVE IT LIKE YOU HAVE TO POOP!"

"It was a beautiful day, the sun beat down
I had the radio on, I was drivin'
Trees flew by, me and Del were singin' little Runaway
I was flyin'"
Tom Petty, Runnin Down A Dream.

Last edited by 1969sag; 06-11-2019 at 04:14 PM.
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post #819 of 839 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by 1969sag View Post
He will be using rebar dowels. The dowels will be tied into the side of the walls. The slab will rest on these dowels, and the slab will float on top of these. The slab needs to float because of Michigan seasons. The area under the pad will be compacted to 95%. Installing the rebar dowels will ensure that the floor doesn't sink that other 5%.

This will be a 6" thick floor with reinforced steel wire mesh inside the pad. More than strong enough to support a 4 post lift.
Any extra concrete in any area can actually cause cracking.
I just don't know at this time what the post specs are. I have been told by the post maker my 6 inch reinforced floor will be more than acceptable. I also do not know exactly where the perfect placement will be for the future lift.
good its a 4 post lift, installing a 2 post lift on an unreinforced(WWF is not real reinf pretty much for crack resisitance only) slab also has overturning moment to consider, with the 4 post its simply vertical load.
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post #820 of 839 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 11:58 AM
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Great progress!

Mine is finally moving along too. Grading/concrete guy is scheduled, permits are in for review, and I finally met with the local power company to relocate my power line that's down the middle of my proposed garage floor.

I'm doing a 2 post. We're going to use rebar and drop the slab to 6". The majority of the lifts I'm looking at (9K-10K capacity) only require a 4" slab.

The majority of the 4 posts one I see only require a 4" slab as well.

I'd rather have the extra thickness, especially on a 2 post.

2011 Mustang 3.7L Premium Pony Package
2015 Silverado 5.3L 2LT DC Z71
1965 Mustang C Code Coupe 289/T5/3.25
1967 Chevrolet C10 350/700R/3.73
1968 Pontiac Firebird 400
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post #821 of 839 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 65 Pony View Post
Great progress!

Mine is finally moving along too. Grading/concrete guy is scheduled, permits are in for review, and I finally met with the local power company to relocate my power line that's down the middle of my proposed garage floor.

I'm doing a 2 post. We're going to use rebar and drop the slab to 6". The majority of the lifts I'm looking at (9K-10K capacity) only require a 4" slab.

The majority of the 4 posts one I see only require a 4" slab as well.

I'd rather have the extra thickness, especially on a 2 post.
your worst case is when you have a car in the air on a 2 post lift and then you put a lateral load on it(something pushes on the front or rear of the car). best case the car falls off the lift worst case the car and the lift tip over together and break out a chunk of the floor for good measure. adding the rebar allows more of the slab area and its weight to counteract the overturning force.
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post #822 of 839 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 01:56 PM
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I'm a civil engineer, I've done lab testing on concrete beams in college with and without rebar and with it in the top, middle, and bottom (as common sense would apply, it was completely useless in the top and had a marginal affect in the middle, but was super strong with the steel on the bottom - all with a load applied to the top of the beam). Very cool to see the real world results/applications.


I also tested concrete and soil as a field tech before I became a design engineer. The field and lab work is fun for about 6 months, then... not so much.


Also, another interesting note on concrete, on average *most* compressive strength tests were +/-500+ PSI above advertised strength (some were well over 1.000), because if something fails, it has to be removed and redone. That was all commercial, not sure if the same would apply for residential, never had to test for them.

2011 Mustang 3.7L Premium Pony Package
2015 Silverado 5.3L 2LT DC Z71
1965 Mustang C Code Coupe 289/T5/3.25
1967 Chevrolet C10 350/700R/3.73
1968 Pontiac Firebird 400

Last edited by 65 Pony; 06-12-2019 at 02:26 PM.
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post #823 of 839 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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A little progress was done today.
We have had a lot of wet weather. This has hampered a lot of things. So today the foundation was coated with tar. The next step is dimpled plastic, and some back fill.
The reason this is being done like this is because we are doing a cement block foundation and code requires it to be sealed. We have to use the plastic because the back fill would stick to the tar, and it would be difficult to get proper compaction. The dimpled water proof plastic won't stick to an untreated block wall so the tar is needed.
It is over kill considering it is not a basement, and really does not need to be water proofed. It just makes things easier to just go ahead and make it like a house foundation, except we do not have to set up a tile drain system.
It looks like this Thursday will be the day for some of the back fill.
A lot more rain is in the forecast for the next week. This could help a little because the 21A back fill is real dry and needs to have some water to help get it compacted correctly.

Once some of this is done. I then have to get a plumbing contractor in to run the sewer line, gas, and water.
All of these utilities will have to be tied into the house. The plumbing contractor has to dig a 4 foot wide trench along the side of the house.
Of course that is on the side of the house that I was storing things from the old garage I tore down. I spent the last few days cleaning up that mess and moving things around in the mud.
Most of the stuff just turned into junk. Little could be saved, that I wanted to save. The plan WASN'T to keep stuff outside under tarps for 3 years. Some 1920's/30's vintage wood doors were destroyed. Oh well.

Here are pic's. Now it is black.
Hemikiller, mikec35 and Grimbrand like this.

Joe in Detroit
1969 Mustang Sports Roof (SAG = Sports Appearance Group) 1 of only 5,729
1966 Ranchero Custom 1 of only 11,000 made. (For Sale)
2014 Mustang V6 premium pony package
1969 Mustang Grande (sold)

Personal Quote from 5-1-15. ''DRIVE IT LIKE YOU HAVE TO POOP!"

"It was a beautiful day, the sun beat down
I had the radio on, I was drivin'
Trees flew by, me and Del were singin' little Runaway
I was flyin'"
Tom Petty, Runnin Down A Dream.

Last edited by 1969sag; 06-18-2019 at 06:40 PM.
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post #824 of 839 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 11:26 AM
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very, nice, glad it is coming together for you finally
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post #825 of 839 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 65 Pony View Post
I'm a civil engineer, I've done lab testing on concrete beams in college with and without rebar and with it in the top, middle, and bottom (as common sense would apply, it was completely useless in the top and had a marginal affect in the middle, but was super strong with the steel on the bottom - all with a load applied to the top of the beam). Very cool to see the real world results/applications.


I also tested concrete and soil as a field tech before I became a design engineer. The field and lab work is fun for about 6 months, then... not so much.


Also, another interesting note on concrete, on average *most* compressive strength tests were +/-500+ PSI above advertised strength (some were well over 1.000), because if something fails, it has to be removed and redone. That was all commercial, not sure if the same would apply for residential, never had to test for them.
in my experience most of the time if I request 3000 psi concrete for example i get 4000 or 4500 when we get the test results back from the cylinder breaks. the concrete companies definitely don't want anything blowing back on them so the 3000 mix is really 4000+, heck we were getting almost full strength in 7 days and by the 28 day breaks we would be way over the required strength on the drawings. it makes since in some regards as this was a 5 story wooden residential condo structure over a cast in place parking deck podium. By the time 28 days had passed several stories were already started and the nightmare of demolishing that podium due to insufficient concrete strength was something they would never want to risk.
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