My Lokar eBrake handle mod - in progress - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-20-2018, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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My Lokar eBrake handle mod - in progress

I have the lokar handle tunnel mounted in my other car (FFR Cobra) and it needed more leverage. Also read it's a problem with the mustang wilwood ebrake setup, so I'm making up the pieces for my project.

Here's a diagram with the basic idea.




Made up the bracket that the cables will mount to.




It will mount in the tunnel using the same bolts that hold the handle in place:


This 2" pulley should work.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#31695t21/=1cxdsay

I'll just have to make up my own clevis that will connect to the brass block (can't find one that will fit the pulley I want to use).

I'll reuse the Lokar clevis and will get some swage end fittings to mount the cable that will go around the pulley.

One for each end of the cable:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#3870t23/=1cxdrke

With these swage fittings, in addition to having some adjustability where the two cables feed into the brass block, I can also adjust the cable that wraps around the pulley.

I'll probably also make up a cover so if anything breaks, it won't fall onto the spinning driveshaft.

Will update this after I get the parts from McMaster ordered and make sure it works.

Dan
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-20-2018, 04:34 PM
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Don't forget that Roller Swage Press for $5,277.72 to go along with it.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-20-2018, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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LOL...a bit much for a tool I'll use twice.

My neighbor runs a bunch of body shops...hoping one of his places has a swage tool or I'll start calling to all the hydraulic shops till I find someone that can do it.

Dan
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-20-2018, 06:58 PM
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I saw a procedure for making a ball end on a cable, I think it was garage journal, where they took a hardware store 0 grade 3/8" bolt and cut it so it was approximately 3/8" long. then they drilled a hole through the bolt and inserted the brake cable in the hole, then used a mig welder to fuse the cable and the piece of bolt together to make the cable ball end. The write up claimed that they never had a failure using this method.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-20-2018, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan Babb View Post
I have the lokar handle tunnel mounted in my other car (FFR Cobra) and it needed more leverage...
What did you mean by 'needed more leverage' Dan? Stiffen the sheet metal hump?

I'll be following in your footsteps too since I don't have stock e-brake parts I figured I'd like to switch to an e-brake in between the seats where it's easier to work for hill starts, Lol, drifting, since I do that so much, and so forth...

I planned on finding an e-brake from another car out there that'd work because I like other options I couldn't get with the Lokar, like stitched leather grip, this Perrin drift button that lets you eliminate the return spring because you can push the button out to lock in in park position. O-ring keeps it snug in the pipe.


Last edited by Fishfreq; 05-20-2018 at 07:14 PM.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-20-2018, 07:30 PM
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I like that 'nascar grey' paint you've got on your underside, btw. Don't know if that's your epoxy primer or what but I'm gonna paint my engine compartment that color too whilst I've got my engine out.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-21-2018, 12:24 AM
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I don't understand what the piece is for and the need for more leverage. I have a Lokar floor mount e-brake and don't have any issues. I did have to re-tighten the cable a couple times as the cable initially stretched, but haven't had to tighten it any further in the last 1.5 years. I do wish the arm had one more solid click on it tho to feel more confident with it. I may have to retighten again to get that extra click earlier that I'm seeking.

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-21-2018, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
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My FFR Cobra has a tunnel mounted Lokar handle. The rear is an 8.8 with drum brakes. When I'd pull the handle, there wasn't enough grip to hold the car from moving down even the slightest incline. So I created a 'leverage bar' so when I pulled up on the handle, more force was applied to the brakes.

I didn't have room for a leverage bar under the car (like in my Cobra), so I came up with the idea of this pulley to provide the extra force.

My mustang has the Wilwood rear discs with the integrated parking brake (which is pretty much just like the old explorer setup with a mini drum brake behind the discs). I've read that the Lokar handle doesn't provide enough force to keep the car from moving, so this pulley setup will effectively double the force being applied to the cables.

The paint is an epoxy primer that was on the car before I bought it. I'll be putting a coat of lizard skin sound deadener under the car when I'm done with my mods.

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-21-2018, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Babb View Post
My FFR Cobra has a tunnel mounted Lokar handle. The rear is an 8.8 with drum brakes. When I'd pull the handle, there wasn't enough grip to hold the car from moving down even the slightest incline. So I created a 'leverage bar' so when I pulled up on the handle, more force was applied to the brakes.

I didn't have room for a leverage bar under the car (like in my Cobra), so I came up with the idea of this pulley to provide the extra force.

My mustang has the Wilwood rear discs with the integrated parking brake (which is pretty much just like the old explorer setup with a mini drum brake behind the discs). I've read that the Lokar handle doesn't provide enough force to keep the car from moving, so this pulley setup will effectively double the force being applied to the cables.

The paint is an epoxy primer that was on the car before I bought it. I'll be putting a coat of lizard skin sound deadener under the car when I'm done with my mods.
"Double the force"? I don't find pulling the handle heavy at all, so I don't think more force/leverage is necessary. If you could find a way to pull more of the cable, that would be more effective.

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460 rwhp / 489 rwtq SAE

TFS 205cc 11R heads || Vic Jr. intake || Holley 950HP || 14" 6 piston / 13" 4 piston Wilwood brakes || T56 Magnum || SPEC 2+ hyd clutch || Detroit Locker || 3.70's || Aluminum DS || TCP R&P || TCP 1 1/8" front sway bar || TCP front adj coilover's || TCP Panhard Rod & rear sway bar || Maier rear leafs || Bilstein shocks || Forgeline GA3C wheels - 18"×10", 19"x12" 325/30
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-21-2018, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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This will effectively pull more of the cable and tighten the grip of the pads to the braking surface.
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-21-2018, 04:19 PM
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Are you using the pulley as a force doubler or pull length doubler? Convert long pull to short powerful pull or short powerful to long pull?

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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-21-2018, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huntingky View Post
Are you using the pulley as a force doubler or pull length doubler? Convert long pull to short powerful pull or short powerful to long pull?


Now you’re getting all scientific on me. Pretty sure as a force doubler.

I will have to pull the handle further, but more force will be applied to the cables.



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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-21-2018, 06:56 PM
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I think Lokar says to not go more than 4 clicks on the handle.
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-22-2018, 01:46 AM
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only 4 clicks

Quote:
Originally Posted by coupe3w View Post
I think Lokar says to not go more than 4 clicks on the handle.
That was exactly the reason I hesitated buying a Lokar e-brake kit, because I recall old trans hump e-brakes I've used, you could use two hands and yank as hard as you wanted and they would take it. Granted, that's not what you want to do, but if you needed to, you could.
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-22-2018, 06:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishfreq View Post
That was exactly the reason I hesitated buying a Lokar e-brake kit, because I recall old trans hump e-brakes I've used, you could use two hands and yank as hard as you wanted and they would take it. Granted, that's not what you want to do, but if you needed to, you could.
Yeah, I have one installed in my '34 Coupe and I have to get it safety inspected. Try telling the guy only 4 clicks on the emergency brake please doesn't go over to well.
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