First Post: Looking into T5 Swap - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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First Post: Looking into T5 Swap

Hi All,
First post on the forum! Recently purchased a '66. 289, 3spd. Coupe. Looking into the T-5 and hydraulic clutch swap.

Called two different shops that said they could do it. and the quote from both were $5,500 and $6,000! From what I've seen on here, it seems like it can be done for sub $2k, or is this a pipe dream?

I see from their estimates that the T-5 itself is $2,000. But I've seen them on craigslist and FB marketplace for $500 - $600. I think I'm missing something here.

Thank you all!
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 04:06 PM
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If you are well versed with scouring the junk yards, you can save some money, assuming you know what you're looking for. More realistically, if you are paying to have the work done, ya its a $5k job. Modern Driveline sells all the parts you need for the conversion for about $3k. It's probably a well paying job to install it for $2k if nothing goes wrong but something always goes wrong.
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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 04:25 PM
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For $5K+ they must be supplying all the new parts and trans or they don't really want to do it.
After doing it only once I bet i could R&R it all in under 10 hours easily.
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 05:01 PM
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Like anything, if you're patient and do things yourself, you can do it for a lot less. I personally did it for very little, but I went with a more affordable cable clutch, and the transmission was basically free with no adapters or anything like that since it was already attached to the free 5.0 (that's a whole other story).

Point is, yes, it can be done for much less than $5-6K. If you want to drive your car into a shop and drive it out with everything done and no bargain hunting or wrenching yourself, be prepared to spend $5-6k.

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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 05:40 PM
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Be careful of a CL or FB T5 for $500/$600. You may just be getting a core worth about $300. A new T5Z has a higher 1st gear than the usual T5 and it seems that they work well with a 3.5 rear ratio. They are also a bit stronger than a production T5.
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 08:35 PM
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Why swap to a hydraulic clutch? Your factory Z-bar mechanical clutch will work just fine. In fact your current clutch, throwout bearing and everything will work with the T5. Just add the adapter plate to the bellhousing, the new trans crossmember and shorten your current driveshaft.
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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awhtx View Post
Why swap to a hydraulic clutch? Your factory Z-bar mechanical clutch will work just fine. In fact your current clutch, throwout bearing and everything will work with the T5. Just add the adapter plate to the bellhousing, the new trans crossmember and shorten your current driveshaft.
and that's a big maybe ,I didn't need to shorten mine
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 11:00 PM
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Check the sticky thread above here. You might find some useful information.

Regards,
Patrick
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 03:12 PM
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I'll tell you a little story about two 'rebuilt' T5's. The first one was junk. Popped out of 2nd and 4th all the time. Swapped it for a T5Z that was supposedly rebuilt. It had trashed synchros and reused bearings in it. It also didn't have the preload set up and a bad 5th gear cluster. Buying a used t5 and shoving it in the car is a bit of a gamble. Sure it's a bit cheaper, but you won't know what its like til its all buttoned up and driving down the road grinding or popping out of gear.

If I had to do my swap again, I'd have just ordered the parts from MDL. Its about a good days work swapping over.

Some guys like the Z-bar, some like hydraulic. Have yet to hear of anyone that 'likes' the cables.
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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rowdy View Post
I'll tell you a little story about two 'rebuilt' T5's. The first one was junk. Popped out of 2nd and 4th all the time. Swapped it for a T5Z that was supposedly rebuilt. It had trashed synchros and reused bearings in it. It also didn't have the preload set up and a bad 5th gear cluster. Buying a used t5 and shoving it in the car is a bit of a gamble. Sure it's a bit cheaper, but you won't know what its like til its all buttoned up and driving down the road grinding or popping out of gear.

If I had to do my swap again, I'd have just ordered the parts from MDL. Its about a good days work swapping over.
That's some tough luck there. I got mine used and it's been good for over 10 years.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rowdy View Post
Some guys like the Z-bar, some like hydraulic. Have yet to hear of anyone that 'likes' the cables.
I LOVE my cable clutch. Still on the same cable a decade later too. Feels great, works great. Though I have only used the Mustang Steve cable conversion. Others may not be as good, but I'm a big fan of this one.

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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 09:25 AM
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Modern Driveline is the way to go! For under 5K I got a TKO rated at 600 hp and all the associated hardware to update my 68 Convertible.

1968 Mustang Convertible 62000 Original miles

Total Control Products Front Coil Over Conversion.
Total Control Products Manual Steering Rack and Pinion.
Total Control Products Rear g-Bar Canted - 4 - Bar Suspension.
Total Control Products g-Bar FAB9 housing.
Total Control Products Shock Tower Brace System.
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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 10:27 AM
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I used a used Tremec 3550, stock 3-speed bell housing, stock drive shaft, stock z-bar. I had to buy 2 things, shortened input shaft and a new cross-member (today I would just make my own).

3550/TKOs are much tougher trans the T-5s, they come up used fairly often, you will pay more, but they will take a lot of abuse.



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ENGINE: FiTech EFI, DSS 347, AFR 185s, Vic Jr, XE274HR cam, MSD ign, Hooker Headers, Magnaflow exhaust
DRIVELINE: Tremec 3550, Pro 5.0, Fidanza AL Flywheel, McCleod clutch, 3.55's, 13" GT Front & Cobra Rear brakes
SUSPENSION: 17" TTII's, 235/45 tires, 620 coils, Shelby drop, 1" & 3/4" sway bars, Monte Carlo bar, S&T strut rods, Bilsteins, & roller perches
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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolblue65 View Post
I used a used Tremec 3550, stock 3-speed bell housing, stock drive shaft, stock z-bar. I had to buy 2 things, shortened input shaft and a new cross-member (today I would just make my own).

3550/TKOs are much tougher trans the T-5s, they come up used fairly often, you will pay more, but they will take a lot of abuse.
There was a TK0 600 here for about a grand (used) and I was eyeing in. Did you have to cut/modify the tunnel at all to make it work?
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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rowdy View Post
There was a TK0 600 here for about a grand (used) and I was eyeing in. Did you have to cut/modify the tunnel at all to make it work?
I took a BFH to the tunnel in a couple spots (mainly the cross brace), and it fits with no rubbing, its literally been in the car for almost 20 years with no issues. That being said, you will get a better driveline angle if you do actually cut the tunnel as the case is quite a bit bigger then a T-5 (I know someone will say something about the driveline angle). The driveline angle has only been a small problem for me once, and that is relation to my TCP r&p install, but it all still works. At one point I did have to cut open the shifter a hole a bit larger when i put on an aftermarket shifter.



ET: [email protected] mph
ENGINE: FiTech EFI, DSS 347, AFR 185s, Vic Jr, XE274HR cam, MSD ign, Hooker Headers, Magnaflow exhaust
DRIVELINE: Tremec 3550, Pro 5.0, Fidanza AL Flywheel, McCleod clutch, 3.55's, 13" GT Front & Cobra Rear brakes
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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 12:10 PM
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I just did my swap for $1300. It can be done. This is my 2nd one. My first one was 10 years ago and the prices have basically doubled in that time. Kinda crazy. Both of mine were done with the mustang steve kit. I like the cable because it leaves room for a brake booster. Just make sure you know what T5 you're getting. If youre going to spend 5-6k Id suggest going with a D&D T56 setup for a fox. Thats what I want, just couldn't justify the cost for an extra gear right now.
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