351w engine build advice - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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351w engine build advice

I picked up a used 95 351w and just finished the teardown. Basically, it needs a complete rebuild. The heads are junk, the cylinders are wavy, not much can be saved.
End goal is a torqey (sp?) street motor. 400hp at the crank would be more than adequate. A couple questions:
1. rebuild bottom end myself or just buy a finished short block? I haven't priced machine work since the 90's so which would be cheaper? I'd like a 408, but bottom end budget is about $1000-$1500 total and honestly a 351 would be sufficient.
2. I want to make big power by 2000 rpm and be done by 5500. Would 170cc heads do that or should I step up to 190's? Budget for heads is also about $1000 so they'll be some Pro-Flo-GT4X chinese knock offs on there.
3. Edelbrock rpm or air gap rpm intake. Is there any difference or advantage at my power levels?
I'll get a cam recommendation from Comp because I'll be running a v6 torque converter in my 4r70w and don't know my head flow numbers yet.


Any help, especially on that bottom end stuff

1966 Mustang 302ci 4r70w, csrp front discs, 8.8 rear, EPAS, Fitech for fuel
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 03:52 PM
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Whether machining your current block is worth it is area dependent.

I know when I had my engine done, I would've been better off buying a shortblock, instead. The reputable shops charge much more than buying a shortblock, esp if you have to buy your core, etc.

Other than that, I clicked on this topic, because I was thinking about something similar and am interested in what others have to say.

Last edited by 120mm; 04-05-2019 at 03:54 PM.
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 06:53 PM
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You can probably throw another crank in there and get it to 393. I am going to go the 427 stroker route with a low compression build eventually put a power adder or two on it.
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 08:53 PM
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Why a V6 torque converter?
You may want to consider a slightly higher stall speed. Depending on your cam choice.

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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 10:01 PM
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Why a V6 torque converter?
Because he's not aware that the V8 and V6 "high stall" 145 K factor stock converters are the same thing? For a higher stall stock style converter he'd actually want one for a Lincoln Mark 8/Mustang 4.6 which is an inch smaller diameter and has a 168 K factor.
Just me talking though.
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 01:30 AM
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Tongue build

Cop, have the connecting rods you already have reconned, and choose 302 pistons, and buy a 3.85 crank, Have the asembly balanced. That will give you a 393 if you go 030 over. Cheap, easy, and effective. LSG
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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Cop, have the connecting rods you already have reconned, and choose 302 pistons, and buy a 3.85 crank, Have the asembly balanced. That will give you a 393 if you go 030 over. Cheap, easy, and effective. LSG
I've heard about that. How much is balancing, or is that something I should just do myself with a scale?



The V6 converter came with the V6 transmission. It doesn't feel too loose or tight, so I'll re-use it unless I come across some reason I shouldn't.

1966 Mustang 302ci 4r70w, csrp front discs, 8.8 rear, EPAS, Fitech for fuel
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 10:08 AM
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Balancing should be around $200. Don't try to do it yourself with a scale. A special machine is required which the crank is installed, weights placed on rod throws and spun then weight taken or added to counter weight on crank. The 393 with Trick Flow 11r 190s and cam will produce plenty of torque. Keep an on going budget for rear tires!
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 12:52 PM
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Personally, if I were doing a 351w (not stroking), I'd try to find a good running roller motor out of a truck and not touch the shortblock. The factory 351w shortblock is part of what makes the 351w so good and economical for performance. I'd sell what you have to someone who does want to go 408 and try to find a decent runner.
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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Personally, if I were doing a 351w (not stroking), I'd try to find a good running roller motor out of a truck and not touch the shortblock. The factory 351w shortblock is part of what makes the 351w so good and economical for performance. I'd sell what you have to someone who does want to go 408 and try to find a decent runner.
That was totally the plan. It was running before I pulled it, but it ran smoothly because it was evenly worn out. Now I've got it tore apart and putting it back together would cost me money in time and gaskets at the least.

I'm currently leaning towards throwing some bearing and rings in it after running one of those dingleberry honing tools on the cylinder walls.

1966 Mustang 302ci 4r70w, csrp front discs, 8.8 rear, EPAS, Fitech for fuel
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by jdub View Post
Personally, if I were doing a 351w (not stroking), I'd try to find a good running roller motor out of a truck and not touch the shortblock. The factory 351w shortblock is part of what makes the 351w so good and economical for performance. I'd sell what you have to someone who does want to go 408 and try to find a decent runner.
One of my employees just bought an entire engine from a salvage yard for $200
Rollover with 90k miles...just check around and you may find a cheap deal to use as a base for your project

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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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Bump for any advice on heads port volume or intake.
For the intake, I'm leaning towards the Weiand Stealth because it's significantly cheaper than the RPM or RPM air-gap. I expect I won't be much different power wise to justify $100 more in price for the Edelbrock?

1966 Mustang 302ci 4r70w, csrp front discs, 8.8 rear, EPAS, Fitech for fuel
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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 12:33 PM
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Bump for any advice on heads port volume or intake.
For the intake, I'm leaning towards the Weiand Stealth because it's significantly cheaper than the RPM or RPM air-gap. I expect I won't be much different power wise to justify $100 more in price for the Edelbrock?
It should be pretty easy to find a used intake at whatever model you want. I just converted from an RPM to a Torker II just because I went EFI. It's not like an intake can be "worn out" so finding a used RPM or Airgap will meet your needs and save you $$$.
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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 02:05 PM
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For heads you really can't go wrong with Twisted Wedge. 170's would be fine if you're looking at 2000-5500 rpm. Cam it properly and 190's would meet your goal as well. Don't worry about clearance as the cam that meets your goals will be small enough to not cause ptv issues. Having said that always check to verify clearance after installation.

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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 02:43 PM
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A GT40P with a good collection of bolt on's/ins could get you to your HP# plus save some weight and $


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