Power source forelec.fan - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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Power source forelec.fan

What is best source or connection point for electric radiator fan. 67 289
Solenoid which post?

fuse box?

thef an temp sender is thermostat housing mounted.
TY

I'm not good at following diagrams.

TY,
Gmpy
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 09:53 PM
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You need a relay. I had mine ran to the "I" post and on a temp sensor before installing an AAW wiring harness
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 09:59 PM
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I built a stand alone harness with a relay. My pickup point was the battery positive terminal and grounded at several locations


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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 10:22 PM
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How are you planning to activate the fan? If it's your main cooling fan putting it on a switch won't work.

You really need a fan controller. This is the one I have:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16759

If you are not good with diagrams find a friend to help you. This is serious stuff, fans draw a lot of current.

On mine I have the yellow and red wire connected to the solenoid. I then have the black wire grounded to the alternator ground post. The fan is activated by the probe which I have inserted into the fins near my radiator inlet. Because I have the red and yellow wire connected together at the solenoid the fan can run when the car is off like a modern vehicle. I eliminated the green wire (it's just an override that you can attach to a switch inside the car).

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 10:31 PM
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The best place to get power for a fan is directly from the battery, and the easiest way to do that is to connect to the starter solenoid terminal where the large cable is coming from the battery. Don't tap into the fuse box - the wiring is not designed for the additional large load of a fan. Fans can draw upwards of 40 amps, so a connection near the battery is the best choice.

As others have pointed out, you will need a relay or some type of controller to control the fan. I did not get consistent results with a temperature probe in the radiator fins, so I am controlling my fan with a coolant temperature sensor. It's really controlled by my EFI computer, but it's based on the temperature read by the coolant temperature sensor. I still have the probe in the radiator fins, but I use it as a fail-safe in case the electronic controls don't work for some reason.

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 11:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdub View Post
How are you planning to activate the fan? If it's your main cooling fan putting it on a switch won't work.

You really need a fan controller. This is the one I have:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16759

If you are not good with diagrams find a friend to help you. This is serious stuff, fans draw a lot of current.

On mine I have the yellow and red wire connected to the solenoid. I then have the black wire grounded to the alternator ground post. The fan is activated by the probe which I have inserted into the fins near my radiator inlet. Because I have the red and yellow wire connected together at the solenoid the fan can run when the car is off like a modern vehicle. I eliminated the green wire (it's just an override that you can attach to a switch inside the car).
It will work ,but one must pay attention. Although I only need to run it idling through traffic or waiting for the next autox run


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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 2nd 66 View Post
It will work ,but one must pay attention. Although I only need to run it idling through traffic or waiting for the next autox run
Well, it works in a literal sense but temps can rise pretty fast. I'd say you have to look at your gauge every 1/4 to 1/2 mile, and a factory gauge with a C, an H and a bunch of meaningless empty space in between won't cut it.

As the many, many, many threads about overheating prove, once you start changing things from stock every car becomes different. Yours sounds like it runs pretty cool. Mine seems to be one of the hotter ones. It was 70 degrees today and the fan was keeping my car at about 200 running full blast.

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 12:06 AM
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It will work ,but one must pay attention. Although I only need to run it idling through traffic or waiting for the next autox run
I have my high amp accessories triggered by a relay with an oil pressure switch. The oil pressure switch completes the circuit to power the relay. The relay then powers the pumps and fan. I don't want them putting a drain on the battery while I'm trying to start.

I have the power to the accessories wired through the relay directly to the battery.

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 08:35 PM
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I LIKE that idea!
Thanks!
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 05:41 PM
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I LIKE that idea!
Thanks!
Russ
Dont forget to fuse that line from the battery

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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 10:00 AM
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A fan controller with Pulse Width Modulation is the way to go for many reasons. Delta Current Control has a good reputation. http://www.dccontrol.com/
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 10:40 AM
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A fan controller with Pulse Width Modulation is the way to go for many reasons. Delta Current Control has a good reputation. http://www.dccontrol.com/
What makes a pwm controller worth the cost in this application? Seems pretty pricey.

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 10:43 AM
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Painless makes a simple fan controller kit with relay and thermostatic switch. Very simple to install, just did one in a friend's car.


https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/30102

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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 02:43 PM
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Where are you guys putting your thermal switch? I already have a sensor in my manifold for my temp gauge so I am using a sensor that goes in the fins of the radiator.

Wouldn't it be cool to have a sensor that would work for both a gauge and a fan controller? Or does that just make too much sense? Or does it make SO MUCH sense that it already exists and I just don't know about it?

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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jdub View Post
Where are you guys putting your thermal switch? I already have a sensor in my manifold for my temp gauge so I am using a sensor that goes in the fins of the radiator.

Wouldn't it be cool to have a sensor that would work for both a gauge and a fan controller? Or does that just make too much sense? Or does it make SO MUCH sense that it already exists and I just don't know about it?
I used a fan controller from speedway for a while that just had a knob to set the turn on point. You could use it with most any cts as a result, so you could hook everything up to a single sender.

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