Looking for 20+ More HP - Page 6 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #76 of 91 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 08:46 AM
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Try calling Edelbrock tech support. They have a virtual engine dyno and the guy will plug in your specs from your original cam. Then ask if a performer RPM cam will help, roller or flat tappet. I respect them because the waived me off on two separate calls: 1) Will an Airgap be a good expenditure. 2) would their performer RPM roller cam be a good expenditure? Both times they said the difference would be negligible and not a good use of money. Impressive!



I have been very happy with the RPM system, very flat torque curve on a 351. Pulls hard from 2500 through 5500 before gently rolling off. Still pulling very hard at 6000 when I hit the rev limiter. Cannot tell you how many autocrosses a year I run the last gates with the rev limiter in full action.


I run a 4150 650 Double pump which gives amazing throttle response but is a gas guzzler. Its made for racing - the Holley performance book suggests vacuum secondaries for any street car. They are great for set and forget for years.

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post #77 of 91 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dobrostang View Post
.....I run a 4150 650 Double pump which gives amazing throttle response but is a gas guzzler. Its made for racing - the Holley performance book suggests vacuum secondaries for any street car. They are great for set and forget for years.
Thanks for the feeback. Was planning on ringing them on Monday.

I got a hit on my CL add for the QF 750 CFM. I'll take a 60$ loss on it but I'd get enough out of it to put the QF 650 on it. They are available in mechanical or vacuum secondaries. Seems like the right thing to do.

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post #78 of 91 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 09:18 AM
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post #79 of 91 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 02:01 PM
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I personally like a double pumper on the street for the throttle response (if it is set up correctly).
For low bucks the Summit (Holley 4010) carbs are pretty good once you change the calibration.
The 750 DP version I am currently using was jetted quite rich. After cleaning it out and changing the jets down to 72, it was good.

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372 Cleveland, 4 speed, 9" T.50 Trac Lock axle, Toploader, Global west suspension, Big Lincoln Trans Am Brakes front, Eldorado caliper/ MK VII disk rear.
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post #80 of 91 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
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Update and another question....

I ordered my AFR gauge kit. Should be here this week.

Question - how important is it to have a fuel pressure gauge inline with the pump and carb? How important is it to have it. I'm currently running a summit fuel pump with max pressure 8psi and 110gph. Seems like a low cost "while I'm at it" that gives additional insight to performance and another touch point for troubleshooting. I think my carb is looking for 6'ish PSI which seems to set itself if you have the floats set correctly.

Thanks
J

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post #81 of 91 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 01:46 AM
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Update and another question....

I ordered my AFR gauge kit. Should be here this week.

Question - how important is it to have a fuel pressure gauge inline with the pump and carb? How important is it to have it. I'm currently running a summit fuel pump with max pressure 8psi and 110gph. Seems like a low cost "while I'm at it" that gives additional insight to performance and another touch point for troubleshooting. I think my carb is looking for 6'ish PSI which seems to set itself if you have the floats set correctly.

Thanks
J
An inline fuel pressure gauge is nice to have to effortlessly verify everything's alright. How important is it? It's a good idea but not mandatory by any stretch. What I consider important to have with a pump that puts out 8psi max is an inline regulator. You want to be able to set the max pressure about 6psi for best performance. You will need a pressure gauge to verify the pressure you set is the pressure you want but after that you could disconnect the gauge and not worry about it unless you had a problem down the line.

Fuel can push past the needle if pressure is too high overloading the bowls. I've never had a problem with it, but I do run a regulator and pressure gauge with a Carter 120gph pump. I don't remember max pressure for it, but it was similar to yours. Maybe it's overkill, but it works for me. Your setup is up to you.

Last edited by Jeff351w; 05-13-2019 at 02:05 AM.
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post #82 of 91 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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Comps recommended CAM:
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post #83 of 91 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
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Question - how important is it to have a fuel pressure gauge inline with the pump and carb? How important is it to have it. I'm currently running a summit fuel pump with max pressure 8psi and 110gph.
Thanks
J
I wouldn't say its critical but nice to see the #. A FPG convinced me I needed to add a regulator to reduce pressure, solving a carb problem.

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post #84 of 91 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 03:38 PM
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I put a gauge on mine and it worked for about two weeks and less than 20 miles. I'd say it's a decent tool to see what's what but once the tuning is done I'd pull it off, put it on a shelf and just a run a plug there. I don't think they can last long under the hood.

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Comps recommended CAM:
Looks like a 274h.

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post #85 of 91 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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Looks like a 274h.

Yup - waiting to see what Edel has to say since I have the manifold and heads.

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post #86 of 91 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 03:59 PM
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Have you thought about switching to a roller cam?

All you need to run one is these:

https://www.andersonfordmotorsport.c...oller-lifters/

I know it seems pricey but to me it's $400 insurance against wiping a cam lobe and wrecking your engine in the first five minutes. You'll probably also need new valve springs, but as has been discussed, you might need those anyway.

There's probably 3-5 common roller cams that will do what you want and most of them you can find used on Corral.net.
2nd 66 likes this.

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post #87 of 91 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 10:32 PM
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I put a gauge on mine and it worked for about two weeks and less than 20 miles.
Mine worked without issue for years. How did you have yours mounted? Maybe it was just luck of the draw.

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post #88 of 91 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quick update team VMF

Installed an AFR Gauge/Bung/Sensor (Wideband). Car is with my mechanic now. AFR during WOT is running at 12.1.

Found this on the google machine:

For typical engines, the range or ratios is:

A/F Characteristics
Ratio
5 Rich burn limit. Combustion is weak and/or erratic.
6-9 Extremely rich. Black smoke and low power.
10-11 Very rich. Some supercharged engines run in this range at full power as
a means of controlling detonation.
12-13 Rich. Best power A/F for normally aspirated WOT.
14-15 Chemically ideal. At 14.6 the A/F is at the theoretical ideal ratio
with no excess fuel or oxygen after combustion. Good A/F target for part
throttle cruise and light to moderate acceleration.
16-17 Lean. Best fuel economy A/F ratio. Borderline for part throttle
drivability (worse than borderline if EGR is used).
18-19 Very lean. Usual lean limit (Driveability).
20-25 Lean burn limit. Varies with engine.

Based on my build - does the above apply or do you all think I'm running to rich WOT. Recall that based on my dyno sheet - I'm dropping off around 5200 RPM and trying to solve that problem.

Thanks
John

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post #89 of 91 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 10:38 PM
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Is it 12:1 the whole time, or just on the top end?

My thinking is that it's a little fat. Getting it closer to 13 on the big end would net you some more horses without being dangerous.
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post #90 of 91 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 11:26 PM
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